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Seacock stuck open, won(39)t close.-gctid802183

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    #1

    Seacock stuck open, won(39)t close.-gctid802183

    I am working on a 3888, and it is time to pull the manicoolers for maintenance. The seacocks need to be closed but the port side one is stuck in the open position. Need comments from somebody who has successfully dealt with this kind of problem. The owner of the boat thinks a torch should be used to heat and expand the valve body. I am reluctant to try that method without verified input.

    Greg
    Newport, Oregon
    South Beach Marina
    1986 3270 with twin 110 HP Hino diesels. Name of boat "Mr. Darcy"
    Past work history: Prototyping, tooling, and repair for Reinell,. General fiberglass boat repair starting in 1976.
    Also worked as heavy equipment mechanic, and machinery mechanic for over 30 years.
    Tags: None
    #2
    I would get the owner to sign a non liability waiver for your work. The seacock need repair and / or replacement and I would not be doing this

    with the boat in the water without being absolved of any liability for a sinking.
    "Adios Dinero"
    1997 3988 with new 330 Cummins
    Photo Credit: Whiskywizard

    Comment

      #3
      [quote]"Mr. Darcy" post=802183 wrote:
      I am working on a 3888, and it is time to pull the manicoolers for maintenance. The seacocks need to be closed but the port side one is stuck in the open position. Need comments from somebody who has successfully dealt with this kind of problem. The owner of the boat thinks a torch should be used to heat and expand the valve body. I am reluctant to try that method without verified input

      Greg[/quo

      Many ball valves have nylon sockets that the ss ball sits in. Applying heat could damage the nylon . I just replaced the impeller on my engine and while trying to prime the pump with sea water (by opening seacock) I noticed that sea level was below the top of the pump. This is on a Carver 390 with Cummins 5.9, s. Doesn't exactly apply to you but you may find the manicooler above waterline and no water coming in. Proceed with caution.

      Comment

        #4
        "Mr. Darcy" post=802183 wrote:
        I am working on a 3888, and it is time to pull the manicoolers for maintenance. The seacocks need to be closed but the port side one is stuck in the open position. Need comments from somebody who has successfully dealt with this kind of problem. The owner of the boat thinks a torch should be used to heat and expand the valve body. I am reluctant to try that method without verified input.

        Greg
        I wouldn't use any heat if it was me doing this. I would use a small hammer and tap the handle to close it (I really do mean TAP it, not hit it). Once it moves a little bit, then work it open/closed by hand over and over until it comes lose and closes all the way. Just remember to tap, tap, tap on the handle. No hard wacks or you will be breaking something and that something might flood the boat.

        The owner needs to know that the seacocks on the boat need to be closed and opened at least monthly (exercise them) to make sure they can close in an emergency situation.

        When I bought my last boat, I had the yard un-stick a seacock. This is how they did it at the time. It has worked for me since on my current boat.
        1992 3288, twin Hino 150's sold
        S. Puget Sound

        Comment

          #5
          Work it back and forth bit by bit it may loosen.

          If it is the wedge type not a ball valve then loosen the nut opposite of the valve and tap the nut end lightly, then try again.
          Pat says: DO-IT-RIGHT THE FIRST TIME!

          Bayliner 3870 "ALASKA33)
          Twin 350 GM power
          Located in Seward, AK
          Retired marine surveyor

          Comment

            #6
            Remember seeing this product but it wouldn't be me using it. Might be an option.

            https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=f-P49Y-o6Y8

            Also would agree trying to work it back and fourth to see if you get it to start moving. You could try slightly backing off the nut to see if you can get some movement in the handle. I wouldn't use a torch (ever). I may try a heat gun if I were getting desperate. Best done on the dry. Best of luck with it and would appreciate knowing how it works out - think most of us may be faced with this at some time.

            Comment

              #7
              This may or may not be of any help to you. But, in my experience.. I usually think about poop, or my mother or something. That usually gets it closed quickly.

              :woohoo: :silly: :blink: :blush: ops: :side: :S :whistle:
              Crash Override
              1989 Bayliner 2455
              Ford 351W (5.8l) OMC Cobra
              Mods: Custom pulpit, 8 million candle power of LED lighting, Lowrance Hook 5, Uniden UM380BK VHF w/8' Whip, Custom 3,000lb cable drive winch w/150 cable+rode, Sound system, upgraded sleeping quarters.

              Comment

                #8
                On a ball valve a little bit of heat will expand the housing and may allow the lever to work back and forth do not use a lot of heat!

                Again if it is a non ball valve then loosen the nut and tap it and then move the handle.
                Pat says: DO-IT-RIGHT THE FIRST TIME!

                Bayliner 3870 "ALASKA33)
                Twin 350 GM power
                Located in Seward, AK
                Retired marine surveyor

                Comment

                  #9
                  Whatever you decide I'd be standing by with an adequate DC kit (damage control). Some rags, duct tape, wood cones, plumbers putty, etc and be sure the bilge pump is functional and has been tested.

                  You should be able to loosen the through hull and remove the seacock from inside and in the water. You may also have a seacock that can be disassembled for repairs. Either way, if you're prepared and confident in your skills you can repair a seacock pretty easily.

                  I would NOT use any heat. Simply use leverage and take your time getting it to break free.
                  Custom CNC Design And Dash Panels

                  iBoatNW

                  1980 CHB Europa 42 Trawler- "Honey Badger"

                  Comment

                    #10
                    One of the main engine intake seacocks was stuck open when I bought my 3988.

                    I used some silicon lube spray on it, then used a pipe over the handle for more leverage, and very gently applied some force in pulses until it came free and closed.

                    I now open and close it regularly to prevent it from seizing up like that again.
                    Greg
                    1999 Bayliner 3988
                    Twin Cummins 6BTA 270hp
                    Malaspina Strait, BC

                    Comment

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