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    understanding 110V electrical-gctid396061

    im wiring my boat 110V

    im installing a main braker 30amp.

    black wire will go to the braker ,green to bus and white to bus .

    from there i will go to sub panel on the port side and another to the starboard side.

    let say port side :

    black wire will go from the main braker to each breaker on the sub panel the green will go to bus ground and the white will go to separate bus ground.from there black will to receptical,white will go to receptical and green too.

    is that correct ?

    attaching pictures of main braker, sub panel braker and bus terminal for green and white .black wire terminal will be a single bus terminal

    for my convinence i will have 2 sub panels

    how to return the green and white to main braker ?

    #2
    nobody know ?

    Comment


      #3
      For 120 VAC, coming from your S/P inlet fitting, you will feed the rotary switch with Hot, Neutral and Ground (if you are using a rotary switch).

      Once leaving the rotary switch, the Hot and Neutral will both connect to the double pole Main Breaker, ground routes to the ground buss bar.

      From the main breaker, the Hot leg will feed your individual branch circuit breaker buss.

      Neutral will feed the neutral buss bar.

      Ground (green for ac) will connect to a ground buss bar.

      IOW, the main breaker protects both Hot and Neutral, but the branch circuits protect the Hot only.

      If you can, best to use a panel that includes both Main Breaker and branch circuit breakers all in one panel.

      .
      Rick E. Gresham, Oregon
      2850 Bounty Sedan Flybridge model
      Twin 280 HP 5.7's w/ Closed Cooling
      Volvo Penta DuoProp Drives
      Kohler 4 CZ Gen Set

      Comment


        #4
        2850Bounty wrote:
        For 120 VAC, coming from your S/P inlet fitting, you will feed the rotary switch with Hot, Neutral and Ground (if you are using a rotary switch).

        Once leaving the rotary switch, the Hot and Neutral will both connect to the double pole Main Breaker, ground routes to the ground buss bar.

        From the main breaker, the Hot leg will feed your individual branch circuit breaker buss.

        Neutral will feed the neutral buss bar.

        Ground (green for ac) will connect to a ground buss bar.

        IOW, the main breaker protects both Hot and Neutral, but the branch circuits protect the Hot only.

        If you can, best to use a panel that includes both Main Breaker and branch circuit breakers all in one panel.

        .
        Thank You.

        I don`t need a rotary switch and like i said i will use separate main and sub panel.

        So IMO im doing this right

        Im only confused by ABYC about returning the green and white to the shore power cord.the green or white cannot be grounded inside the boat like DC

        Comment


          #5
          andrew 1 wrote:
          Thank You.

          I don`t need a rotary switch and like i said i will use separate main and sub panel.

          So IMO im doing this right

          Im only confused by ABYC about returning the green and white to the shore power cord. the green or white cannot be grounded inside the boat like DC
          120 AC power = 1 hot leg, 1 neutral leg, and one ground.

          12 DC power = 1 Pos and 1 Neg.

          The S/P is your supply, so you will not be returning anything to the shore power cord.

          Bring the Hot and Neutral to your 30 Amp double pole main breaker.

          The green AC ground will connect to it's own buss bar, as will branch circuit grounds.

          From the 30 Amp double pole main breaker, feed the Hot to your branch circuit breakers.

          The branch circuit Neutrals will connect to a Neutral buss bar, and will remain isolated from any DC Negative.

          If you want to, you can use a Galvanic Isolator to join the boat's AC Ground and DC Negative.

          Mike (aka SomeSailor) would be a good person to explain this to you.

          Side note:

          I don't recall reading a follow-up on your new engine build.

          How did that go, or how is it going?

          .
          Rick E. Gresham, Oregon
          2850 Bounty Sedan Flybridge model
          Twin 280 HP 5.7's w/ Closed Cooling
          Volvo Penta DuoProp Drives
          Kohler 4 CZ Gen Set

          Comment


            #6
            andrew 1 wrote:
            Thank You.

            I don`t need a rotary switch and like i said i will use separate main and sub panel.

            So IMO im doing this right

            Im only confused by ABYC about returning the green and white to the shore power cord.the green or white cannot be grounded inside the boat like DC
            Why ask if you don't want to know ?

            A little bit of electrical knowledge is more dangerous than none.
            Jim McNeely
            New Hope a 2004 Bayliner 305 Sunbridge Express Cruiser
            Twin 5.7s with Bravo2 drives
            Brighton, Michigan USA
            MMSI # 367393410

            Comment


              #7
              2850Bounty wrote:
              120 AC power = 1 hot leg, 1 neutral leg, and one ground.

              12 DC power = 1 Pos and 1 Neg.

              The S/P is your supply, so you will not be returning anything to the shore power cord.

              Bring the Hot and Neutral to your 30 Amp double pole main breaker.

              The green AC ground will connect to it's own buss bar, as will branch circuit grounds.

              From the 30 Amp double pole main breaker, feed the Hot to your branch circuit breakers.

              The branch circuit Neutrals will connect to a Neutral buss bar, and will remain isolated from any DC Negative.

              If you want to, you can use a Galvanic Isolator to join the boat's AC Ground and DC Negative.

              Mike (aka SomeSailor) would be a good person to explain this to you.

              Side note:

              I don't recall reading a follow-up on your new engine build.

              How did that go, or how is it going?

              .
              Thank You

              that`s what i thought,

              the engine will go to the shop when i finish the boat

              Comment


                #8
                JimMc wrote:
                Why ask if you don't want to know ?

                A little bit of electrical knowledge is more dangerous than none.
                your reply helped me a lot .

                Comment


                  #9
                  i remodeled my victoria.

                  my dinning will look like this

                  instead of bunk beds i made cabinets

                  my galley similar to this

                  i will be using a main power distribution

                  and two sub panels one on the port side to provide :

                  1 breaker for 110V stove

                  1 breaker for toaster/oven, for fluorescent light above the galley,coffe maker,tea pot and 1 spare outlet

                  1 breaker for water heater

                  1 breaker for battery charger

                  on the starboard side :

                  from sub panel :

                  1 for 110v fridge

                  1 for computer,tv,lamp

                  1 for 110v heater

                  im trying to make this to work becouse i already have :

                  main

                  i made two sub panels one for port side and one for starboard

                  Any sugestion how to wire it up please

                  Comment


                    #10
                    i can attach only 5 pictures so im trying to add

                    that was on my boat

                    becouse i don`t need a bunk beds so i made a cabinets similar to this

                    also i will be using a neutral /ground bar like this

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Question: Why are you breaking up the two sub panels by seperating them (i.e., one Port side/one Stbd side)?

                      If distance and/or resistance is the reason, there's really no need to. A/C current will make the run without issues if the circuit is sized correctly.

                      Your S/P cord will supply the S/P Inlet fitting.

                      (this is a 30 amp 120 vac unit)



                      Your main breaker will be supplied from this Inlet fitting.



                      From the main breaker you'll feed the two branch circuit panels.

                      If you keep the two branch circuit panels one over the other..................





                      ...... or side by side.........



                      .... it will simplify your wiring and will keep all A/C related breakers grouped nicely together.

                      .
                      Rick E. Gresham, Oregon
                      2850 Bounty Sedan Flybridge model
                      Twin 280 HP 5.7's w/ Closed Cooling
                      Volvo Penta DuoProp Drives
                      Kohler 4 CZ Gen Set

                      Comment


                        #12
                        i want to use the holes already made so there will be no room for additional 3 wires for the starboard or 5 for the port side.that`s why i thought to seperate the subs so i can run 1 wire to the sab.

                        In Your sugestion will look nicer but the waterproof wires are very thick.10 awg from the inlet to main,12 awg from the main to subs ,14 awg from subs to recepticals

                        Comment


                          #13
                          andrew 1 wrote:
                          i want to use the holes already made so there will be no room for additional 3 wires for the starboard or 5 for the port side.that`s why i thought to seperate the subs so i can run 1 wire to the sab.

                          In Your sugestion will look nicer but the waterproof wires are very thick.10 awg from the inlet to main,12 awg from the main to subs ,14 awg from subs to recepticals
                          main to subs should be 10 gauge aswell since 30 amp will protect 10 gauge wire, not 12 gauge. for 12 gauge wire you would need 20 amp breakers/fuses to protect the wiring. other than that it sounds like a great plan.

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Mattmm wrote:
                            main to subs should be 10 gauge aswell since 30 amp will protect 10 gauge wire, not 12 gauge. for 12 gauge wire you would need 20 amp breakers/fuses to protect the wiring. other than that it sounds like a great plan.
                            oh ok ,thank You

                            Comment

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