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Pulling Cobra Sterndrive - what all should I do?-gctid395952

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    Pulling Cobra Sterndrive - what all should I do?-gctid395952

    I am going to pull my OMC Cobra sterndrive next week to replace the transom shift cable. Been having trouble getting it into reverse, pretty sure the tension is well over the 14 pounds, so figured I'd just replace it. So far I've received some great advice on how to accomplish this task, and get all the linkage adjusted.

    My question for now is, while the drive is off, what else should I do to it? Are there other routine maintenance things that I should do? Also, what type of grease should I use for the driveshaft, etc.? All the manuals list the OMC greases, but I imagine those are no longer available.

    Thanks in advance.

    #2
    Anyone?
    ..........

    Comment


      #3
      I use spline grease for the splines as a matter of fact my stringer is awaiting a water pimp kit as we speak , it's all apart.

      Quicksilver, and many other brands are ok.

      I would of course check the gimbel bearing, the boots.

      You will need to use a alinement tool can be had for about 50 bucks delivered off ebay.
      Be good, be happy, for tomorrow is promised to no man !

      1994 2452, 5.0l, Alpha gen. 2 drive. Sold ! Sold ! Sold !

      '86 / 19' Citation cuddy, Merc. 3.0L / 140 hp 86' , stringer drive. Sold ! Sold ! Sold !

      Manalapan N.J

      Comment


        #4
        Chief Alen wrote:
        I use spline grease for the splines as a matter of fact my stringer is awaiting a water pimp kit as we speak , it's all apart.

        Quicksilver, and many other brands are ok.

        I would of course check the gimbel bearing, the boots.

        You will need to use a alinement tool can be had for about 50 bucks delivered off ebay.
        Was going through the installation in the manual tonight and noticed the alignment tool. Does this just line up the gimbal bearing? Hoping to get everything greased up well while it's apart.

        Comment


          #5
          Seems like we just discussed this recently.

          I drew this crude drawing for a Merc, but the principle should be the same for OMC.

          Attached files [img]/media/kunena/attachments/vb/699799=29262-Gimbal system coupler alignment explained 2.jpg[/img]
          Rick E. Gresham, Oregon
          2850 Bounty Sedan Flybridge model
          Twin 280 HP 5.7's w/ Closed Cooling
          Volvo Penta DuoProp Drives
          Kohler 4 CZ Gen Set

          Comment


            #6
            2850Bounty wrote:
            Seems like we just discussed this recently.

            I drew this crude drawing for a Merc, but the principle should be the same for OMC.
            That's a great drawing. I guess my question is if I take the sterndrive off and then go to put it back on, why would the engine (too high or low) change such that I would need the alignment tool?

            I have not done much boat work, but have done a lot of car work. I guess I am sort of thinking of it in terms of a clutch change on a car. When replacing the clutch and pressure plate, I've always used a pilot to center the shaft bearing prior to putting the transmission back in, so the shaft would center into the engine. Is that similar to what's needed for doing the sterndrive?

            What I don't see in the directions is when you pull the alignment tool out. I.E. What am I trying to accomplish with the tool, so that I know when it's done I can pull it out. I imagine this will make more sense when I start getting into it, but I'd sure like to know ahead of time what I'm getting into.

            Thanks.

            Comment


              #7
              jmg-in-alask wrote:
              • 1 wrote:
              • That's a great drawing. I guess my question is if I take the sterndrive off and then go to put it back on, why would the engine (too high or low) change such that I would need the alignment tool?
              • I have not done much boat work, but have done a lot of car work. I guess I am sort of thinking of it in terms of a clutch change on a car. When replacing the clutch and pressure plate, I've always used a pilot to center the shaft bearing prior to putting the transmission back in, so the shaft would center into the engine. Is that similar to what's needed for doing the sterndrive?
              • What I don't see in the directions is when you pull the alignment tool out. I.E. What am I trying to accomplish with the tool, so that I know when it's done I can pull it out. I imagine this will make more sense when I start getting into it, but I'd sure like to know ahead of time what I'm getting into.



              • 1 wrote:
              • You are correct! Pulling the drive has nothing to do with causing this to become misaligned.

                It's the previous year's usage that may have caused the engine to settle (for lack of a better term).

                When we have the drive removed, this is our prime oportunity to check the enging drive coupler alignment. If the coupler were to become misaligned, yet we continue to use it, it may damage the internal splines.

                If that was to occur, now the engine must be removed! :thumb
              • Well, not exactly.

                When installing a new clutch plate and pressure plate, the pilot shaft is to center the clutch disc prior to bolting the pressure plate in position.

                This is somewhat different, as the drive coupler can't help but to align with the flywheel and crankshaft center.

                It's the entire engine angle that we are adjusting for this.
              • The foward section of the tool offers the same OD as does the drive shaft minus the high point of the male splines.

                Or IOW, the high portion of the female splines (within the coupler) offer the same diameter as the tip of the tool.

                Same thing.... different way of saying it.

                The tool is greased and is inserted into the drive coupler, but without indexing it into the actual female splines.

                The fit is snug enough for a grease pattern to be seen when the tool is then removed.

                If the alignment is OUT, the grease markings on the tool will reveal this......... be it at the top, or be it at the bottom.

                It is rather crude, but it works.




              Also, keep in mind that the actual Gimbal Bearing articulates in a hemispherical (or radial) fashion within it's axis. Sort of a "self aligning" bearing, but it will not account for a misaligned engine drive coupler.

              Take another look at my rough drawing. As said, I could not angle the drive coupler along with the engine center-of-crankshaft.

              So try to imagine that it does show the coupler angled correctly.

              You'll see that since the vertical axis' of both rear engine mount and Gimbal Bearing is not shared, there is a geometry conflict between center-of-crankshaft and center-of-drive-shaft!

              Once you begin, it will all make sense to you.

              Edit:

              If any of you guys can tweak my first two images to show the coupler being in-line with the purple crankshaft line, please do.

              Coupler tipped UP in the first image.... coupler tipped DOWN in the second.

              I'm not able to do it with my system.

              .
              Rick E. Gresham, Oregon
              2850 Bounty Sedan Flybridge model
              Twin 280 HP 5.7's w/ Closed Cooling
              Volvo Penta DuoProp Drives
              Kohler 4 CZ Gen Set

              Comment


                #8
                Updated image for Bounty's archive:


                Comment


                  #9
                  Mr. Orca, much thanks to you! :coo-

                  I wish that I had the ability to have done that first time around.

                  Now, as if to look a gift horse in the mouth... would you do one more thing for me/us?

                  Would you take those yellow lines (change color if it helps), and perhaps fatten them up a bit, and make them continue through the coupler in order show the conflict with the internal splines when not aligned correctly?

                  This way, it will show more so of what we're trying to achieve.

                  This may end up being a good image for any us to use in the future!

                  Sorry to even ask, and I'll thank you in advance!

                  I'll go on record here... I owe ya one!

                  .
                  Rick E. Gresham, Oregon
                  2850 Bounty Sedan Flybridge model
                  Twin 280 HP 5.7's w/ Closed Cooling
                  Volvo Penta DuoProp Drives
                  Kohler 4 CZ Gen Set

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Updated above. Will that do? I didn't continue them into the coupler, but could if it would be clearer?

                    Comment


                      #11
                      orca wrote:
                      Updated above. Will that do? I didn't continue them into the coupler, but could if it would be clearer?
                      [SIZE]4 wrote:
                      Perfect![/SIZE]
                      :coo- ................. :worth

                      I'm sending you a brand new set of Sea Ray decals!
                      Rick E. Gresham, Oregon
                      2850 Bounty Sedan Flybridge model
                      Twin 280 HP 5.7's w/ Closed Cooling
                      Volvo Penta DuoProp Drives
                      Kohler 4 CZ Gen Set

                      Comment


                        #12
                        The drive could have dropped also, the stringers could be soft. You asked !
                        Be good, be happy, for tomorrow is promised to no man !

                        1994 2452, 5.0l, Alpha gen. 2 drive. Sold ! Sold ! Sold !

                        '86 / 19' Citation cuddy, Merc. 3.0L / 140 hp 86' , stringer drive. Sold ! Sold ! Sold !

                        Manalapan N.J

                        Comment


                          #13
                          No problem, went pretty easy.

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Is this the tool that should work for mine? 5.7 OMC with Cobra outdrive.

                            http://www.ebay.com/itm/Engine-Drive...ab924f&vxp=mtr

                            Thanks.

                            Comment


                              #15
                              jmg-in-alask wrote:
                              Is this the tool that should work for mine? 5.7 OMC with Cobra outdrive.

                              http://www.ebay.com/itm/Engine-Drive...ab924f&vxp=mtr

                              Thanks.
                              [COLOR]"#0000FF" wrote:
                              ITEM DESCRIPTION:

                              Engine Alignment Bar Tool for MerCruiser Sterndrives including:

                              Pre-Alpha "R", Alpha One "MR", Generation II, all Bravo models.

                              This Tool is similar to MerCruiser P/N 91-805475A1 which used to be P/N 91-57797A3.

                              As well as:

                              Volvo SX P/N 3851083 and OMC Comba P/N 18-4442

                              Tool is made from high quality 1045 Steel

                              100% Made in the United States. [/COLOR]
                              Rick E. Gresham, Oregon
                              2850 Bounty Sedan Flybridge model
                              Twin 280 HP 5.7's w/ Closed Cooling
                              Volvo Penta DuoProp Drives
                              Kohler 4 CZ Gen Set

                              Comment

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