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Can you eliminate the freshwater system on a bayliner?-gctid393657

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    Can you eliminate the freshwater system on a bayliner?-gctid393657

    Hello,

    New to boating and got a great deal on an old 86' Bayliner with a Volvo Penta AQ131A and 275 drive. Got the thing running but now it seems my heat exchanger may be fubar. Can I eliminate the freshwater system and somehow get the boat to cool from the outside water source? The boat will never touch seawater so that is no concern. Seems to me the way to go if your not going to be in saltwater but again I am new to this. I understand car motors pretty well but these marine deals are different. Any advice or help would be greatly appreciated.

    Thanks

    Oscar

    #2
    mrbudweiser wrote:
    ..........
    • 1 wrote:
    • Can I eliminate the freshwater system and somehow get the boat to cool from the outside water source?
    • The boat will never touch seawater so that is no concern.
    • Seems to me the way to go if your not going to be in saltwater but again I am new to this. I understand car motors pretty well but these marine deals are different.




    Any advice or help would be greatly appreciated.
    Oscar,
    • 1 wrote:
    • If you're asking about removing the OEM Volvo Penta "Closed Cooling System", short answer, NO!

      This engine requires a PH correct coolant.

      This PH correct coolant's "heat" is exchanged into the River/Lake/Ocean water...... of which is your "outside water source".
    • The seawater is not the main concern. River/Lake water will also cause issues with internal components that are not designed for incorrect PH coolant.
    • Look on e-Bay, or contact our member Ryan (aka RKCarguy) and ask him to show you his shell & tube system that he has designed for an alternative Heat Exchanger.



    Rick E. Gresham, Oregon
    2850 Bounty Sedan Flybridge model
    Twin 280 HP 5.7's w/ Closed Cooling
    Volvo Penta DuoProp Drives
    Kohler 4 CZ Gen Set

    Comment


      #3
      Marine engines aren't really different at all. Gas, air, compression spark and away you go.

      Lots and lots of boats run with a raw water cooling system in fresh water. there si advice not to go from raw water to fresh water cooled, but the other way around should not be a problem. Your engine and components will corrode faster than with antifreeze.

      Exactly why is your heat ex fubar? Lots of places can clean them out and seal them up (Rad shop). I'd not give up on my fresh water cooling system easily.

      This is why my full fresh water cooled 1979 Mercruiser has 10 year old manifolds and the original block in it.

      Chay

      Comment


        #4
        mrbudweiser wrote:
        Hello,

        New to boating and got a great deal on an old 86' Bayliner with a Volvo Penta AQ131A and 275 drive. Got the thing running but now it seems my heat exchanger may be fubar. Can I eliminate the freshwater system and somehow get the boat to cool from the outside water source? The boat will never touch seawater so that is no concern. Seems to me the way to go if your not going to be in saltwater but again I am new to this. I understand car motors pretty well but these marine deals are different. Any advice or help would be greatly appreciated.

        Thanks

        Oscar
        If it's just the heat exchanger you need, I've got one for sale.

        Comment


          #5
          Thanks guys, I found another and am going to try and run a different exchanger and see how she runs. I am just a bit of logical thinker and was thinking the boat would run much cooler with cold lake water going through the motor instead of having to do a circulation of hot and cool. We will see what the results are, if she runs good after the exchange exchange then I will leave it alone.

          Comment


            #6
            mrbudweiser wrote:
            Thanks guys, I found another and am going to try and run a different exchanger and see how she runs. I am just a bit of logical thinker and was thinking the boat would run much cooler with cold lake water going through the motor instead of having to do a circulation of hot and cool. We will see what the results are, if she runs good after the exchange exchange then I will leave it alone.
            Liquids are very very efficient at heat transfer.

            The intent is to maintain engine temperature within the OEM specs.... not to over-cool the engine.

            .
            Rick E. Gresham, Oregon
            2850 Bounty Sedan Flybridge model
            Twin 280 HP 5.7's w/ Closed Cooling
            Volvo Penta DuoProp Drives
            Kohler 4 CZ Gen Set

            Comment


              #7
              I am just a bit of logical thinker and was thinking the boat would run much cooler with cold lake water going through the motor instead of having to do a circulation of hot and cool.
              I understand why you might think that, but everyone here will agree that it's an incorrect assumption. Also "run cooler" is NOT good! "Run at the right temperature" is what you want. It will do so as designed.

              Comment

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