Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

The right crimp tool to use on a boat(39)s wiring-gctid393041

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

    The right crimp tool to use on a boat(39)s wiring-gctid393041

    We recently discussed this and a few people said it was an expensive tool. I just looked, thinking about leaving one on the boat at all times, and it's dirt cheap:

    http://www.amazon.com/Tool-Aid-18900.../ref=pd_cp_e_0

    There's almost no way to go wrong with that tool and a heat-seal crimp connector. If you can screw that up, you should never even clean your own boat, you're not qualified. Buy this, a few of the high-quality heat-seal butt connectors that Walmart sells at a great price, and you are all set.

    #2
    Looks like mine. Perfect tool. It only releases when you crimped it the correct amount.

    Comment


      #3
      SwampNut wrote:
      We recently discussed this and a few people said it was an expensive tool. I just looked, thinking about leaving one on the boat at all times, and it's dirt cheap:

      http://www.amazon.com/Tool-Aid-18900.../ref=pd_cp_e_0

      There's almost no way to go wrong with that tool and a heat-seal crimp connector. If you can screw that up, you should never even clean your own boat, you're not qualified. Buy this, a few of the high-quality heat-seal butt connectors that Walmart sells at a great price, and you are all set.
      And get one of these to go with it. Handiest tool you will ever own.

      http://www.amazon.com/Klein-Tools-11...971210-5966336

      Bob

      Comment


        #4
        SwampNut wrote:
        We recently discussed this and a few people said it was an expensive tool. I just looked, thinking about leaving one on the boat at all times, and it's dirt cheap:

        http://www.amazon.com/Tool-Aid-18900.../ref=pd_cp_e_0

        There's almost no way to go wrong with that tool and a heat-seal crimp connector. If you can screw that up, you should never even clean your own boat, you're not qualified. Buy this, a few of the high-quality heat-seal butt connectors that Walmart sells at a great price, and you are all set.
        Same OEM as the Harbor Freight but twice the price. The cheap ratcheting crimpers do not always leave a secure crimp on all terminal types (and varying wire sizes within the terminals), sometimes they must be adjusted for different terminals. A real industrial ratcheting crimper ($200-400+) is rated for only that manufacturer's terminal products.

        I think a far easier solution for varying terminal types is a regular pliers-based one like a http://"http://www.amazon.com/Channe...hannellock 909, and it will last you a lifetime

        Comment


          #5
          I vigorously test all crimps I do, and have a 100% success rate. I use only 3M crimp connectors.

          And get one of these to go with it. Handiest tool you will ever own.

          http://www.amazon.com/Klein-Tools-11...971210-5966336

          Bob
          I have that, but usually end up using this instead:

          http://www.amazon.com/Neiko-01924A-U...stripping+tool

          Comment


            #6
            I use a similar crimper Carlos. They work very well. At some point it comes down to operator skills and avoiding the temptation to over-crimp or solder them. A good mechanical connection can't be beat and IS the right way to terminate on a boat.
            Custom CNC Design And Dash Panels

            iBoatNW

            1980 CHB Europa 42 Trawler- "Honey Badger"

            Comment


              #7
              SomeSailor wrote:
              I use a similar crimper Carlos. They work very well. At some point it comes down to operator skills and avoiding the temptation to over-crimp or solder them. A good mechanical connection can't be beat and IS the right way to terminate on a boat.
              http://baylinerownersclub.org/media/....jpg[/img]

              Comment


                #8
                Same here, Mike A!
                Rick E. Gresham, Oregon
                2850 Bounty Sedan Flybridge model
                Twin 280 HP 5.7's w/ Closed Cooling
                Volvo Penta DuoProp Drives
                Kohler 4 CZ Gen Set

                Comment


                  #9
                  Interestingly, I just got an e-mail from a friend who is very new to working on his own boat. He has a shower pump wire he's trying to crimp and it keeps pulling out he says (using the tool above, using my method of pulling after the crimp). Learned that he's connecting a #14 feed wire to a #18-ish pump wire. So it's too small. Solution: Strip extra wire and fold it over, making a #16 and within the range of the crimp connector.

                  So I guess there are always ways to do it wrong if you don't read the specs. Still, a simple pull test tells you everything you need to know. If it can't pull out now, it won't after it's been shrunken and sealed.

                  Comment


                    #10
                    SwampNut wrote:
                    I vigorously test all crimps I do, and have a 100% success rate. I use only 3M crimp connectors.

                    I have that, but usually end up using this instead:

                    http://www.amazon.com/Neiko-01924A-U...stripping+tool
                    Same here. We used high priced ratchet crimping tools at Hydro because it was in the contract. They are great unless they jam during the crimp...then they are hell to get off!

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Yeah, I got a connector cock-eyed in mine while being lazy and not paying attention, had to destroy it with cutters and awls to get the ratchet crimper open.

                      Comment

                      Working...
                      X