volvo parts-gctid346910

[Guest]

well I dropped off my volvo dueoprop drive to be checked before using it in the project . I have a list of parts mostly seals & o rings. 1 bellow & a prop kit. does any one have a parts or know of a discount suplier

[Guest]

There are a couple of reliable suppliers I have used for my VP drives. For bellows, seals, etc., I've used Marine Parts House. For my prop (which turned out to be a rare diameter/pitch), I used Marine Parts Express.

[2850Bounty]

trophyone wrote:
well I dropped off my volvo dueoprop drive to be checked before using it in the project . I have a list of parts mostly seals & o rings. 1 bellow & a prop kit. does any one have a parts or know of a discount suplier

Did you drop off the entire drive? If so, how was it removed..... all together, or trans off first?

Best to pressure/vacuum test the drive before pulling it apart.

Some unsolicited suggestions for you:

Always remove and replace your drive by removing the transmission first.... and installing it last. Much easier this way.

This leaves the shift cable bracket and water neck fitting very accessible and easy to work with.

It also eliminates trying to align hinge pins, shift cable, S hose, female yoke onto the PDS, and bellows install all at one time.

Secondly, perform your pressre/vacuum leak down test before pulling anything apart. This way you have a better chance of finding where a leak may be.

Thirdlly, there are certain items the are best if replaced with OEM. Seals, for example.

There's seldom a need to remove the Intermediate housing unless you need to get into the pivot tube area, latch unit (if equipped), change a suspension fork or suspension fork hinge pin bushings, etc.

When/if replacing a transmission and/or lower unit onto another Intermediate housing, a shimming procedure must be done. NO Exceptions!

Also, when/if replacing a lower unit, make sure that the original vertical shaft bearing race comes over with the lower unit. We want to keep this race and the roller cage together.

NOTE: I'm seeing more V-8 powered transmissions in need of main drive gear bearings these days. If you are having the transmission re-sealed, the Tech wil be only several minutes away from pressing the maind drive gear from the bearing box. This will allow him to examine these two bearings. Nothing changes to the pre-load if he knows what he's doing.

What work are you having done?

Which drive is this?

Which ratio drive?

Have you used this drive before?

What boat/which engine?

Does this shop have AQ series drive experience?

Do you need to bounce anything off of us to see if their price is reasonable?

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[Guest]

I purchesed the drive & gimble off of craigs list. I relised when it arrived that the 4 bolts that hold the foot on were removed. I dropped it off at a local shop ( members of the fishing club i belong to recomended them said there very good & dont miss anything. I asked them to split it at the foot & see if everything looks good. They disasembled the whole drive transmission & all. Said the gears look good the prop shaft has a light scooring on it but is still good. now they say I need to replace seals & orings & the crush sleeve the missing bolts & some of the bearings. parts 690.00 helmet plastic bushing is 50.00 4 bolts 33.00 do these prices sound right I did find the seal kit uper & lower for 149.88 which there matching.

laybor 400.00 shop laybor is 90.00 hour

Im leary of dropping this much into a drive I had anouther project I did & ended up spending way to much on a rebuilt transmission that I only got 40 hours out of.

is this what would be considered a full rebuild i.e should i be getting a warentee of some type?

volvo dp-c all i can find listed is dp-c1

2.30 on the tag I got 1.75 when turned by hand.

numbers on tag 872206 3102124939

will be placed behind a diesel 290hp

[2850Bounty]

Perhaps I'm a bit confused here. There is NO gimbal system to the DP-C drive. Are you sure that you have a DP-C?

Post a few pictures and I can tell you what you have.

The 2.30:1 ratio will not work for a V-8.

Plus, this is an over-all ratio, so you must have both transmission and lower assembled in order to check the ratio by turning and counting revolutions.

You must also make sure that the sliding sleeve and gear cup are firmly mated.

Once you begin, you can't let any slack occure. If slack were to occur, you must start over.

[Guest]

[QUOTE=2850Bounty;652187

The 2.30:1 ratio will not work for a V-8.

[/QUOTE]

Yikes, 2.30:1! I second Rick's comment! That gear ratio is more appropriate for a 4 cylinder. For example, the 4 cylinder (48 hp at prop shaft) Diesel engine I'm installing will be coupled with a lower unit that has a 2.15:1 gear ratio and it is appropriate. The 2.30:1 gear ratio is lower than mine!

[Guest]

Im probably using the wrong term. the inner & outer transome assembely. The drive is identical to the 280 I pulled off of the boat. the boat had a v8 & the duo prop drive came off a v8 when i recieved it it was all together thats why I didnt relise the foot was missing the 4 blots that hold it on. so when I checked the ratio it was all together.

[Guest]

any help is welcomed I havnt delt with outdrives before so im behind the learning curve.

[2850Bounty]

trophyone wrote:

• 1 wrote:
• Im probably using the wrong term. the inner & outer transome assembely.
• The drive is identical to the 280 I pulled off of the boat.
• the boat had a v8 & the duo prop drive came off a v8 when i recieved it
• it was all together thats why I didnt relise the foot was missing the 4 blots that hold it on. so when I checked the ratio it was all together.

No inner transom assembly wtih the AQ drive. The AQ transom unit is called a "shield" or "transom shield".

See the images below.

The 280 and DP-C are considerably different, but may appear the same to the untrained eye.

SB V-8 ratio is 1.95:1.... BB V-8 ratio is 1.78:1.... again, these are over-all ratios.

Define "foot" if you would please.

trophyone wrote:
any help is welcomed I havnt delt with outdrives before so im behind the learning curve.

I'm glad to help, we just need to get on the same page here.

Here is a typical 280, noted by no P/T, does use the reverse latch, has an oval shaped exhaust outlet w/ exhaust flapper on some production models only.



Here is a typical 290, noted by P/T, still uses the reverse latch, SS anchorage bracket, different style transom shield, and oval shaped exhaust outlet w/ flapper.



This would be a typical SP-C or DP-C, noted by P/T w/ out SS anchorage bracket, NO Rev Latch, a different style transom shield, and oval shaped exhaust outlet w/ flapper.



Any of these AQ series are main suspension fork/pivot tube geometry.... NO Gimbal suspension, no inner transom plate.

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[Guest]

How long does it normally take to disassembled a dp-c upper middle & lower Volvo.

[2850Bounty]

trophyone wrote:
How long does it normally take to disassembled a dp-c upper middle & lower Volvo.

Man you're making me work for this one!

Will the entire drive still be attached to the transom shield, or off and on the work bench or work stand?

Unless you're doing work to the Intermediate housing and/or pivot tube work, there's really no reason to remove the hinge pins and Intermediate housing.

For a first timer:

Draining oil........................................ about 10 min or so.

Removing transmission.................... about 20-25 min if no issues.

Removing lower unit ...................... about 20-30 min if no issues with the three 5/16" bolts.

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[Guest]

Separated from transom Shield. Fresh water unit on stand & workbench.

[2850Bounty]

trophyone wrote:
Separated from transom Shield. Fresh water unit on stand & workbench.

OK! It will be about the same.

Just a note to you when going back together:

Attach your new bellows to the Flywheel Cover "snout" and place the worm drive screw where you can have access to it once the rest of the drive is in place.

NOTE: Use ONLY the OEM Euro style band clamps!

Hang the Intermediate next (if the lower is attached, that's OK too).

Connect your shift cable and cable bracket, and S hose to the NEW water neck fitting.

Drop the vertical shaft coupler into place.

Make sure that the shims are in place.

Now install the transmission by turning it sideways as to engage the female yoke onto the PDS.

Drop down and tighten the four fasterners.

Fit aft end of bellows, and button it up.

Drop the helmet down, and secure the helmet fastener.

Re-connect shift linkage.

Add gear oil through the fill port, etc etc etc.

No cheating... all O-rings must be new.

Edit:

Sorry if this is redundant, but if you are changing any transmission and/or lower unit from one (or it's original) Intermediate housing to another, re-calculation of the shim value must be done.

No exceptions!

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[Guest]

I'm being charged over 2 hours of labor for dismantling the drive does thus sound right.

[2850Bounty]

trophyone wrote:
I'm being charged over 2 hours of labor for dismantling the drive does thus sound right.

Define "dismantling" for me.

If he's just removing the transmission and lower unit from the Intermediate housing, yes..... that is excessive, IMO.

Can you post photos?

Photos tell stories that would otherwise require hundreds of words!

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