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OK I wanted to pass along a quick update. Since August, I have replaced my motor, y-pipe, transom, gimbal housing, battery charger, manifolds, risers, lower shift cable, gimbal bearing, bellows, water pump and a bunch of other stuff that I'm sure I'm forgetting - all with help and advice from this forum. Well today was a happy day. I ran the engine for the first time. Things are looking. :-)
If this is a flat tappet cam engine, be sure to use protocol for running in the cam followers.
Do this, and then don't run it much until you can load it down some on the water for the actual run-in.
Be sure to check the ignition TA while you can do it easily.
Have fun!
.
Rick E. (aka RicardoMarine) Gresham, Oregon
2850 Bounty Sedan Flybridge model
Twin 280 HP 5.7's w/ Closed Cooling
Volvo Penta DuoProp Drives
Kohler 4 CZ Gen Set
chris wrote:
Congradulations!!! How did you remove the inner shift cable hose from the inner transom
I didn't remove the hose. I just removed the cable and replaced it and the shift cable boot. My cable hose was in good condition. It looks as though there is a big nut at one end. I think an adjustable wrench would remove it but I could be wrong.
Roger from Michingan Motorz suggested I run 1 hr at 1000rpm, 1hr at 2000rpm, 1 hr at 3000 rpm, then WOT. He also said to use oil with high zinc content. Does this make sense? I'm just wondering how I'm gonna get to a point where I can run at 2000 rpm for 1 hr then 3000rpm for 1 hr. Should I just get to open ocean and go?
... I'm just wondering how I'm gonna get to a point where I can run at 2000 rpm for 1 hr then 3000rpm for 1 hr. ...
I'd like to hear what Rick has to say. My understanding is the important thing is to vary the engine speed during the break in period (20 hours?). I take that to mean no longer that 5 minutes or so at any one RPM. Lay off WOT until well into the break in period.
I am concerned with information I've been receiving from Mic***an Moto**. When I first dropped the motor in i spun up the oil pump to get oil into the engine. The pump was making a grinding noise. I called MM & was told by one of the mechanics to run it any way. I pulled the pump to find a piece of metal in it. It wasn't huge but had mad a few noticeable impressions in the pump. I called today to get the break in procedure and was told to run at 1k for 1 hr. 2k for the 2nd hour and 3k for the third hour. I was told WOT was fine after that and to change the oil after 10 hours. I was also told that I could run up to 2k on my muffs which I have a hard time with. He did recommend oil with a high zinc content but couldn't tell me why, just that they recommend it there.
Everything I read online says to vary the speed every 10 minutes. I did run the first hour at 1K on the muffs and planned to run from now on in the water. I hope I didn't do any damage. It never got over 160 degrees and the engine sounded fine. I do hear a ticking noise from the exhaust but nothing strange when I am in the engine bay.
I can't find consistent break in procedures on the net. It seems like they all vary a bit. Some vary wildly.
If you are sure you heard MM correctly than I would follow what they said. (perhaps a 2nd call and speak with someone else would be wise as well) reason being, if an issue arises and you have a warranty claim you want to say that you followed THEIR instructions for the break in period. In other words, do not give them a get out of jail free card.
Phil, Vicky, Ashleigh & Sydney
1998 3055 Ciera
(yes, a 1998)
Previous boat: 1993 3055
Dream boat: 70' Azimut or Astondoa 72
Sea Doo XP
Sea Doo GTI SE
Life is short. Boats are cool.
The family that plays together stays together.
Vice Commodore: Bellevue Yacht Club
Roger from Michingan Motorz suggested I run 1 hr at 1000rpm, 1hr at 2000rpm, 1 hr at 3000 rpm, then WOT. He also said to use oil with high zinc content. Does this make sense? I'm just wondering how I'm gonna get to a point where I can run at 2000 rpm for 1 hr then 3000rpm for 1 hr. Should I just get to open ocean and go?
Greg
Greg, you haven't given us much information of this engine. rod
As said, if flat tappet cam followers, there will be a necessary run-in period for the followers. This is accomplished while on the garden hose, and with no load..... or, if can be done on the water.
The important part is "Splash Lubrication" for the cams, and this occurs best at about 1,500/2,000 RPM.
The recommended duration will be approximately 15-20 minutes at no lower than 1,500/2,000 RPM.
It does not need to be all in one run..... it can be the sum of several runs.
DO NOT allow the engine to idle during this!
If roller cam followers, there's no real "run-in" time necessary for the camshaft or followers.
Verify all of this with Roger or Loren.
Your goal will be cam follower run-in (if flat tappet) and piston ring seating.
Piston rings want pressure behind them in order to seat correctly.
This is why we MUST progressively load the engine during this "run-in" time.
wefivehodges wrote:
The instruction I have came from the engine builder but runs counter to my mechanics suggestions.
Greg
I think that you may be misinterpreting the....>>>> [COLOR]"#0000FF" wrote:
"run 1 hr at 1000rpm, 1hr at 2000rpm, 1 hr at 3000 rpm, then WOT". [/COLOR]
This is to be done while under load, and while after the cam followers have been run-in.
[COLOR]"#0000FF" wrote:
"run 1 hr at 1000rpm "[/COLOR] means to put-put around at no more than 1k RPM.
It does not mean that you cannot return to idle for short durations.
[COLOR]"#0000FF" wrote:
"1hr at 2000rpm" [/COLOR] means to put-put around at no more than 2k RPM. Vary the RPM while doing so.
Remember, 2k RPM is just above hull speed, and the boat will be pushing lots of water. Watch things carefully at this RPM.
[COLOR]"#0000FF" wrote:
"1 hr at 3000 rpm, then WOT" [/COLOR] Same as above. Vary your RPM.
Watch temp closely. Make sure that the sea water path is open and clear.
Set and varify your ignition timing paying particular attention to what your progressive ignition advance is doing, and particular attention to the TA (total advance). This means performing a dynamic timing test/check/set.
IOW, DO NOT set BASE advance ONLY, then walk away! rod
If you need specs, contact Roger or Loren.
Don't end up being the subject of Loren's next; "What caused this?" thread!
.
Rick E. (aka RicardoMarine) Gresham, Oregon
2850 Bounty Sedan Flybridge model
Twin 280 HP 5.7's w/ Closed Cooling
Volvo Penta DuoProp Drives
Kohler 4 CZ Gen Set
If it were me I wouldnt be using a pump that was scard on a new engine but then that is me. Most of us know how even just a few groves on a seawater impellor can effect pump flow. But like I said thats me.
About the break in you really do need to follow what they said but yes vary the rpm. Like Rick said.
When I break in my engines after initial cam break in you (it if you have run it cam break in is already to late if its idled ).
I like to run up 10 or so times with good solid throttle ups to about cruise speed for about a minute then I back off the say 1000rpm . I do that several times to seat the rings. Then its go easy for the first 10 hours never leaving it in one rpm range for extended periods.
But as was said follow what they tell you. It seems every one has their method. I know racers that just run the hell out of them from cam break in. They never seem to have a problem. Their thought is if its going to break its going to break now if not everything is good.
On a side note I think I read somewhere that MM prebreaks in their cams on a machine.
There was no room for misinterpretation. Roger said run at 1k for 1 hr 2k for 1 hr. 3k for 1hr. The WOT. Maybe he was simplifying for our conversation. I did ask for written instructions. I have them in my inbox. I will read and report back.
For the record I changed my oil pump. I wasnt gonna run it making the sound it was making.
The motor I got was a reman specified for my boat. It's supposed to be their replacement for it. I believe 5700rr. It's a 5.7 with flat tapper cam. It's now sporting the intake from my other motor as well as other accessories.
At this point I have no issue with them provided the info they gave me is correct. The motor seems to run good and I've had no issues aside from the faulty oil pump.
I just hope I didn't do any damage by running for an hour. I actually ran at around 1400 rpm. Idle screw was wicked high. Not sure why that was.
rod
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