New 2005 185 owner with questions-gctid392047

[Guest]

Hello all,

I'm in the final transaction stages of becoming the new owner of a very nice, gently used Bayliner 185 with a Mercruiser 3.0 L engine. I've already been browsing this great forum and have learned a lot already. The boat is ready to put on the water but still on my short list of things to do are;

1. Fuel filter/water separator kit.

2. Oil and filter change

3. Gear lube change

I'm a DIY type of person for most routine maintenance so #2 and #3 I can handle. The thing I have questions on is #1. The soon to be previous owner has been religious with adding sta-bil marine use ethanol treatment to every tank of gas and for winterization. There is not, however, an aftermarket fuel filter/water separator assembly installed. So I ask, which fuel filter kit do you recommend? I want one with a stainless bracket assembly (not aluminum) and I don't think I need the top level Racor one, just a good all round affordable and easy to install kit. Any direct links would be appreciated as well as any step by step "how to" write-ups or videos.

Thanks all and safe boating!

P.S. The boat will be run in Annapolis, MD in the Chesapeake bay and the various inlets and rivers in the area.

[Guest]

I would add to the list to change the impeller unless you have 100% proof that it was last changed maximum two years ago. Unless you 100% trust the PO don't take the PO's word for it! These impellers should be changed after 3 years max.

For the filter my comment is:

learned the hard way that going with cheaper solution in boating it usually is the most expensive in the long run... I'd go Racor if I would install a fuel filter separator but as my boating is on lakes I never had water trouble in the fuel.

[Guest]

I can't answer any questions - just wanted to say, welcome to the club! I have a 2008 175 and we love it. The only thing about the 175 that I regret is not getting the power steering (which is an option on the 175 but standard on the 185). I cannot believe how efficient the 3.0 L motor is - I previously owned a 25 HP outboard and I'm sure it used more fuel than the 3.0 L!

[Guest]

well this is my 3rd 3.0 powerd boat. I keep them 5 to 6 years. I have never put in a Fuel filter/water separator kit. I never ever had any problems at all. I look it it this way if it was a must have Manufacturer would put them in. Waste of money if you ask me.

2nd the impeller every two years ? way over kill and to many variables to consider. How many hours on the boat for starters? Where was it stored inside or out side? I have never replaced one ever but my boats only have about 100 to 125 hours on them when i sell them. I spend alot of my time rafting with my friends in the middle of the lake.

Just some food for thought

[Guest]

nh boater wrote:
if it was a must have Manufacturer would put them in. Waste of money if you ask me.

Do you really believe this?????? They only put in what's required by law or makes it easier to sell the boat. No law cares whether you ruin something.....

But I have to agree, I never had a water separator in my boats. In my opinion it depends on the type of boat and even more on the usage.

I really can't see how water could enter on the lakes I go to. The only possibility would be if the lousy, pre-2011 Moeller plastic tank would let water in as much as it lets fuel odor out..... In the AZ heat it's really bad...

[Guest]

Thanks for the warm welcome everyone! Sealed the deal today and picked her up and was able to get her out on the water for a short time today. She ran great but the tachometer isn't functioning so any help there would be appreciated. Also there is no horn so I got an air horn to cover the coast guard regs. Thanks again all. I'll keep looking into fuel filter mod and let you all know what route I go. Maybe I'll post up a "how-to" of my own with pictures too.

[Guest]

congratulations!

Now you have to do all the mandatory things like forgetting to lift the engine before towing it out, drain plug ............. (you know the drill)

Not functioning tach is most likely a connection problem. First look at all the wire connections on the rear of the tach and clean them (a bit of dielectric grease when you put them back together goes a long way!), then the same on the other side (engine).

[Guest]

Welcome and enjoy, and if anyone tells you a 3.0L is under powered, and they will, ignore them.

Mine runs just fine and is very economical with plenty of pulling power, and I dont have to watch the fuel guage go down like you would in a bigger engine. I have a water separator fitted in the fuel line and is just like an oil filter, easy to change and only about $30 AUD. Sorry don't know what type it is off hand.

[Chief_Alen]

Welcome aboard !

First thing i would do is get the proper manual. I hope you checked the gear oil after the sea trail before you bought the boat. You checked the engine oil before and after the sea trail correct ?

Was the tach working then ?

What was wot during the sea trail ?

In the manual there will be a wire schematic, maybe the wire off the dist. is grey for the tach.

Just asking.

Do not get a Claymor get a seloc manual.

[Patrevan]

stxman4 wrote:
Thanks for the warm welcome everyone! Sealed the deal today and picked her up and was able to get her out on the water for a short time today. She ran great but the tachometer isn't functioning so any help there would be appreciated. Also there is no horn so I got an air horn to cover the coast guard regs. Thanks again all. I'll keep looking into fuel filter mod and let you all know what route I go. Maybe I'll post up a "how-to" of my own with pictures too.

Unlikely this boat doesn't have a horn. Follow the advice given for acquiring a manual, then follow the advice given for the tach. I would think there is a horn and there is likely corrosion at the contacts.

[Guest]

Changed the engine oil today and will do the gear lube oil next. I will also get a proper manual like many of you have suggested to figure out the horn, tach, etc. although wiring is not my strong suit. I'm the third owner of the boat and after my shakedown run I asked the p/o about the tach and he said he totally forgot that it didn't work and that it wasn't working when he bought the boat from the original owner. Also my 185 does not have power steering so I'm kicking around the idea of retro fitting it as it was a factory option, is that correct? I'll put more hours on it and see if I get used to the fairly stiff steering before shelling out money for all the parts. Would a SE 300 hydrofoil be a cheap compromise, opinions?

Thanks again all for the advice and comments.

[Guest]

My tach and temp gauge also didn't work when I purchase my boat. Found out it was the actual gauge, however wasn't willing to pay about $350 for one new gauge so decided to fit all new for a total of $150, if my memory is right as per this link.

http://www.baylinerownersclub.org/forum/showthread.php?55968-Newbie-Saying-Hello-From-OZ

[Guest]

Took ya'lls advice and bought a seloc manual. Found the horn, checked the wires for corrosion, they seem fine, almost brand new looking, same with the wires going to the horn switch (I'm an idiot for not seeing it right on the dash). Noticed a few more issues. The tach still doesn't work and the temperature gauge which is right next to it doesn't seem to function either. The fuel gauge is next to the temp guage and it fluctuates and flutters while underway but reads correct most of the time when stopped or idling. So basically the right side of the dash is wonky. I do posses a small ammount of wiring skills although electronic trouble shooting/problem diagnosis is not really one of them. I also managed to run over something this weekend and it took a small chunk out of the lower outdrive vertical fin at the base of the fin just below the prop, looks like the cutout of a quarter. It also bent the small annode fin right above the prop. So....I've scheduled an appointment with a professional mechanic. My questions are;

How much is all this gonna cost me?

AND

As for the outdrive, is it an easy fix/worthwhile fix to have the chunk repaired or should I just have the mechanic grind it smooth and throw some outdrive paint on it to prevent corrosion? FWIW, I did not notice any handling issues. Only noticed the missing chunk when I got the boat out of the water.

AND

As for the electronic issues, if the horn and gauges are found bad, should I order the parts myself (assuming I can get them cheaper than a mechanic/dealer) and install them myself and just pay for the diagnosis?

Thanks again all for the help and advice.