Changing my OMC Raw Water Impeller-gctid391012

[Guest]

So I am planning on making the drive to my boat tomorrow (3.5 hours) to get the raw water pump impeller done on the outdrive. Overheating and a check by pulling hoses revealed no water getting pumped through. I bought an entire kit that includes impeller, housing, rubber D-ring for housing, wear plate, and gasket that fits over wear plate.

I've read threads on here, learned a lot, and have just a couple of extra questions. My plan is to use either 3M weatherstrip adhesive or Permatex Aviation Sealant on the rubber D-ring that goes in the housing cover (to keep it in place). I am also going to use Vaseline to help get the impeller into the housing, and really hoping this works. Haven't been able to get my "new" boat out yet.

Questions:

(1) What, if anything, should I use between the gasket and the wear plate? Permatex, or other rubber type "Form a Gasket"?

(2) Should I use any such material between the wear plate and the outdrive itself?

(3) When getting the impeller in, I've read that I should turn the housing so that the fins on the impeller are pointing the right direction before startup. Which direction does the impeller turn? If I am looking at it straight on from the back of the boat, it seems it would turn clockwise, same direction as the motor itself (assuming motor turns clockwise?).

Thanks in advance. I gotta make this work. "New" boat hasn't been out yet and wife is saying sell it already.

[Guest]

jmg-in-alask wrote:
So I am planning on making the drive to my boat tomorrow (3.5 hours) to get the raw water pump impeller done on the outdrive. Overheating and a check by pulling hoses revealed no water getting pumped through. I bought an entire kit that includes impeller, housing, rubber D-ring for housing, wear plate, and gasket that fits over wear plate.

I've read threads on here, learned a lot, and have just a couple of extra questions. My plan is to use either 3M weatherstrip adhesive or Permatex Aviation Sealant on the rubber D-ring that goes in the housing cover (to keep it in place). I am also going to use Vaseline to help get the impeller into the housing, and really hoping this works. Haven't been able to get my "new" boat out yet.

Questions:

(1) What, if anything, should I use between the gasket and the wear plate? Permatex, or other rubber type "Form a Gasket"?

(2) Should I use any such material between the wear plate and the outdrive itself?

(3) When getting the impeller in, I've read that I should turn the housing so that the fins on the impeller are pointing the right direction before startup. Which direction does the impeller turn? If I am looking at it straight on from the back of the boat, it seems it would turn clockwise, same direction as the motor itself (assuming motor turns clockwise?).

Thanks in advance. I gotta make this work. "New" boat hasn't been out yet and wife is saying sell it already.

1) I use "gasket sealer" on my gaskets. It's this gooey red crap. I'm not entirely sure it's right, but it hasn't done me wrong yet.

2) So the correct order of assembly is: Outdrive/Gasket/Wear Plate/impeller/impeller housing-cage, with the o-ring going around the groove in the impeller housing and hitting up against the wear plate. So to answer your question - put the gasket, and a sealer if you so desire, in between the wear plate and the outdrive itself.

3) I can't remember rotation direction, and it's tough to turn your head around backwards to envision it. Easy thing is to look at the old impeller you take out. Twist the new one as it goes into the cage to bend the vanes in the same direction as they are bent on the old one, (if the old one has been in there for at least a year, it will have a rather permanent bend to the vanes).

This is all assuming you have a cobra outdrive....that's all I know.

As for putting goo on the o-ring - I just lube it up with a bit of whatever I have lying around, (vaseline, clean oil, whatever). Just a scant amount, no need to drown it. I don't know if you really need weatherstrip or permatex on it - but it probably won't hurt, (just don't foul the impeller).

This is a really easy job. I check my impeller every spring and typically replace it every 2 years. 20 minutes tops.

Edit: Pretty sure https://"http://www.autozone.com/aut...e: <br /> thisis the goo I use.

[Chief_Alen]

what year of drive, stringer or cobra unit ?

Stringer you don't need to remove the whole drive just the lower i can post the way i do it from another thread if it's a stringer.

[dktool]

Re: rotation.

If standing outside the boat looking forward, you will start the housing on the impeller while rotating the HOUSING clockwise.

[dktool]

straight on from the back of the boat

It's a Cobra

[Guest]

Thanks. It is a 1988 Bayliner with 5.7 OMC, Cobra outdrive.

[Guest]

If you use gasket sealer on the gasket between the outdrive and the wear plate, make sure you don't block the little groove on the drive side that allows water to escape from the area around the impeller shaft into the intake opening of the pump. It is there to relieve any pressure that might overcome the seal around the impeller shaft and force water into the drive. As far as the impeller cover gasket goes, a little bit of permatex to hold it in place will work fine, however I bought a can of the OMC sealant for use on gaskets and o-rings with the applicator brush on the the top for less than $10 and I have used it on this kind of stuff for years.

[Guest]

Just be sure you get a perfect seal onthe"D"-ring (the irregularly shaped one between the cover and plate). If you don't, it won't prime at idle... though it may prime and stay primed if you rev the engine.