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Toilet water supply valve leak and damage.. HELP-gctid390850

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    Toilet water supply valve leak and damage.. HELP-gctid390850

    [img]/media/kunena/attachments/vb/694458=28675-1.jpg[/img]

    [img]/media/kunena/attachments/vb/694458=28676-2.jpg[/img]

    [img]/media/kunena/attachments/vb/694458=28677-3.jpg[/img] In the middle of my outdrive and PDS bearing problems I uncoverd another problem. The through hull fitting with a valve for the water supply to the head seams to be leaking. It's on the trailer so I can't tell if its the valve or the through hull fitting. Are the through hull fittings common to leak or is the valve more likely? and I also found the board that goes across under the seat cushion has ripped off the hull... It's not soft or rotted so I'm not sure why it happend but I am not sure the right way to repair it. Any help would be great guys.

    #2
    Is that a plastic valve attached to the thru hull fitting? If so, that needs to go and be replaced with a marine grade bronze ball valve installed in a correct manner. Once you do that you can put the boat back in the water and test for leakage.

    Your frame has some broken tabbing. Tabbing is a fiberglass tape that is applied to the member (whether frame, stringer, bulkhead, etc, - doesn't matter) to attach it to the hull. It is referred to as 'secondary bonding'. It's an easy repair that basically requires the old tape to be ground out and new tape and resin installed. Someone will be along shortly to explain in excruciating detail how the process works. You could also probably go to YouTube and search for something like 'Fiberglass Secondary Bonding' or Fiberglass Taping' and get a few DYI videos.

    I wouldn't overly worry about either problem - they're both relatively easy fixes.

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      #3
      BTW - After looking at your pix again, a few other thoughts:

      1. The 90┬░ elbow attaching your hose to the valve appears to be plastic also. Change that out to bronze or eliminate it completely.

      2. There is only one hose clamp securing the hose to the fitting. Change that to two clamps, stainless steel.

      3. The support with the bad bonding is attached to the hull to prevent that stretch of fiberglass from 'oil canning' which is a term used to describe a fiberglass panel flexing in and out. That must be repaired to prevent damage to the hull.

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        #4
        The valve looks like it is Marelon and therefor fine for thru hull use. The elbow however Looks like pvc but again may be Marelon which is perfectly fine. Should be double clamped but it does look like the hose is not far enough on to the elbow permit this and should be corrected. http://www.forespar.com/products/boa...hru-hull.shtml
        Cheers, Hans
        2007 Carver 41 CMY
        Twin Volvo D6-370
        Montreal, Canada
        Midnight Sun I Photos

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          #5
          Thanks for calming me down. lol I will replace the valve and elbow. Can anyone give alittle more info on the fiberglass repair?

          Comment


            #6
            mfalbo1978 wrote:
            Thanks for calming me down. lol I will replace the valve and elbow. Can anyone give alittle more info on the fiberglass repair?
            Starting new thread with a specific title will yield many more response than continuing here.

            Comment


              #7
              As others have said, remove that plastic elbow and double clamp it. As far as the piece separating from the hull, I would guess stress and fatigue. Not something you want to see happening, but I dont think it will be difficult to repair either.

              Comment


                #8
                mfalbo1978 wrote:
                Thanks for calming me down. lol I will replace the valve and elbow. Can anyone give alittle more info on the fiberglass repair?
                that job is a bit itchy but easy. Get the entire triangle piece of fiberglass stuff which is still at the stringer (no better word known) off. I have a very small angle grinder for this but you may be able to just chew it off with some other tools.

                Once it's off sand it very well with coarse grit sand paper. It should be really rough! The same for the are it was attached to at the hull, sand the surface in a slightly larger area off and make sure every square mil was touched by the paper. Clean everything, best with compressed air and as I forgot to mention it before: wear a mask as you don't want the ground glass fibers in your lung.

                Now find a way to hold hull and stringer as close as possible together (minimum gap). If you can get it to no gap we are fine already.

                Well, we have reached the point where others will disagree, the resin. I would only use very slow curing Epoxy for such a job but it can be done with Polyester but surprisingly Epoxy better sticks to the Polyester used for the hull than Polyester itself. If you go with Epoxy make 200% sure that you use the exact mixing ration for resin and hardener!!!! If you get it wrong you'll have a really bad job in cleaning it up again.

                If you can get the two parts close together jump to the next. If there's a gap mix fumed Silica into the well mixed Epoxy until it has the consistency of peanut butter (looks similar too). Put a nice blob into the gap, move the parts as close together as you can and fair all the oozed out putty to a nice shape (did I mention? wear gloves). Now, while the putty is still not cured put a layer of woven fiberglass over it and push normal Epoxy (no fumed Silica) into the cloth with a bristle until it is completely filled. Add a few more layers of glass always filling it with Epoxy. Based on the location I'd use at least 3-4 layers of ~8-10oz plain weave fiberglass for this.

                If you want to get really fancy and worked fast you can use left over putty to generate a nice and smooth surface.

                OK, now I leave it up to the other guys to tell you why you should use Polyester............ (I wish my boat would have been made with Epoxy...)

                Comment


                  #9
                  Nomenclature

                  A small support peice like the one depicted can also be called a 'gussett' - a sort of catch-all word for a small piece that performs a support role but is not a major part of the construction.

                  Just for fun...

                  Comment


                    #10
                    thanks! English is my second language and there are some words I never heard or had to use. However, there are words I only know in English as I was only exposed to some subjects after I moved to the US and I have a hard time to translate them.......

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