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    Electrical issue-gctid390812

    I've got an electrical issue that has me stumped. My boat is wired the following way. Port batt goes to one switch and Starboard to the other. House load is on the starboard battery. MBS position 2 does nothing on either switch. The starboard engine wont start with the starboard battery. House works sometimes and others not. If I tie the two batts together (both) everything is good. I pulled the starboard batt which is 1 year old and it tested fine. 800 cca at the batt store. I checked and tightened the connections at the battery and the switch itself.

    If I switch to position 1 after starting, the engine runs fine, alt reads 13/14 volts and all dc systems operate.

    What is my next move?

    (answer is not donate to BOC)
    Doug
    Hanging Loose
    98 Carver 350 Mariner
    2013-
    KRUSTY KRAB
    2001 305
    5.7 BII
    2006-2013

    #2
    bump
    ..........
    Doug
    Hanging Loose
    98 Carver 350 Mariner
    2013-
    KRUSTY KRAB
    2001 305
    5.7 BII
    2006-2013

    Comment


      #3
      This is tough without some sort of schematic.... even if just a rough drawn one.

      Do you have the Perko 90 degree sweep MBSS by chance?

      Attached files [img]/media/kunena/attachments/vb/694534=28685-MBSS Perko 90 d sweep vs Cole Hersee.jpg[/img]
      Rick E. Gresham, Oregon
      2850 Bounty Sedan Flybridge model
      Twin 280 HP 5.7's w/ Closed Cooling
      Volvo Penta DuoProp Drives
      Kohler 4 CZ Gen Set

      Comment


        #4
        Switch the batteries and see if the same thing happens. My last boat with this setup had a crank (engine) battery and a house battery, not one battery for each engine. The only way I could crank with both batteries was to switch to "all".

        Comment


          #5
          iceclimber wrote:
          Switch the batteries and see if the same thing happens. My last boat with this setup had a crank (engine) battery and a house battery, not one battery for each engine. The only way I could crank with both batteries was to switch to "all".
          A large HLBB should be fully capable of engine cranking.

          Both Doug M and myself crank our Stbd engines on our large HLBB, and with no issues what-so-ever.

          Several other members are doing the same.

          IOW, a dedicated Port engine cranking bank, and a large healthy HLBB for the Stbd side.

          The "key" is a Large and Healthy HLBB....... and it helps to have quick firing engines!

          A 3 or 4 second cranking draw of 200 amps, is next to nothing in terms of AH used.

          The OP likely has either a battery bank issue, an issue with either a Pos or Neg battery cable, or an issue with the MBSS contacts.

          In part, that's why I asked if he was using the whimpy 90* sweep Perko MBSS.

          .
          Rick E. Gresham, Oregon
          2850 Bounty Sedan Flybridge model
          Twin 280 HP 5.7's w/ Closed Cooling
          Volvo Penta DuoProp Drives
          Kohler 4 CZ Gen Set

          Comment


            #6
            Rick,

            Not sure of the brand but it is a 360 degree swithch. 1 is west Both north 2 east and off south.

            I've owed the boat since 06 and it always worked fine with both switches in position 1.

            As for the ease of starting, both engines are in good tune and fire up in a second or two. When the starboard

            fails to start,(which it does all the time now when the switch is on 1) it just clicks. Is it possible that the switch itself has failed? I've cleaned and tightened the connections (they

            weren't dirty or loose but I did it anyway.
            Doug
            Hanging Loose
            98 Carver 350 Mariner
            2013-
            KRUSTY KRAB
            2001 305
            5.7 BII
            2006-2013

            Comment


              #7
              2850Bounty wrote:
              This is tough without some sort of schematic.... even if just a rough drawn one.

              Do you have the Perko 90 degree sweep MBSS by chance?
              yuck, this picture only confirms: no way to use such a switch without AFD diodes even if they are externally mounted. Give it a few years and it WILL open when you turn it with the engine(s) running

              Comment

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