Engine Alignment for outdrive-gctid390362

[Guest]

OK I'm stumped. I'm trying to align the engine so I can install the outdrive. I can't get the dang tool to go in. I've run the motor mount adjustment from the top to the bottom. No matter where I have it, I can't get the alignment tool to go into the splines. It seems as though the engine is to high at the rear I thought bringing the front mounts up, would fix the prob but it's not.

Oh, if you've been following my progress, I got my engine in for about the 5th time and when priming the pump realized Michigan Motorz sent me and engine with a bad oil pump. We just replaced the pump thankfully I didn't have to pull the motor to do it.

Greg

[Guest]

I just read the thread started by wineandcoffee. I will try those suggestions. It sounds like I may need to wiggle a bit to get into the spline. I was unaware that the gimbal moved like described in the other thread.

Greg

[Guest]

It can be tricky if you are way out of alignment as you surely are having adjusted the mounts all of the way up and down. You don't have to be out by much for the tool to miss the coupler hole. Move the mounts in very small increments and try inserting the alignment tool each time. If you adjust the mounts too much before inserting to tool you could miss the sweet spot and the tool won't find the coupler hole.

[Guest]

What does it mean if when I pull the tool out, there are deep grooves on the top of the tool and none on the bottom? I tapped it to engage the coupler. Once engaged it is very tight. When I pulled it out that's what I saw grooves on the top none on the bottom.

Thanks for the quick reply.

So frustrating.

Greg

[Guest]

wefivehodges wrote:
What does it mean if when I pull the tool out, there are deep grooves on the top of the tool and none on the bottom? I tapped it to engage the coupler. Once engaged it is very tight. When I pulled it out that's what I saw grooves on the top none on the bottom.

Thanks for the quick reply.

So frustrating.

Greg

It means you are getting closer, but are not quite there yet. You want the grease grooves to be even all of the way around the tool. You have to adjust the front mounts up or down until the grease grooves even out. At that point the tool should slide in easily and you have aligned your drive.

Stay with it you are almost there.

[2850Bounty]

Greg, take a look at this thread.

http://www.baylinerownersclub.org/forum/showthread.php?71161-Motor-mounts/page2

[talman]

NEVER Force the alignment tool in, you can damage the tool and the coupler.

1) Once you have the engine height close enough to

fully insert the tool without force, then you can start

working on setting the proper alignment.

Take your time, getting it close enough to insert the

tool the first time can sometimes be the hardest (most

frustrating) part.

2) Coat the end section of the tool (the smallest diameter

area) with a light coat of grease and then insert it fully

into the coupler.

3) Without turning the tool, pull it straight out and look at

the depth of the teeth marks in the grease.

If the teeth marks in the grease are deep on the

top side and shallow on the bottom side of the tool then

your motor is too high.

If the marks in the grease are deeper on the bottom than

on the top then your motor is too low.

4) Adjust the engine height accordingly.

5) Keep checking the depth of the marks in the grease until

they are equal in depth on top and bottom.

Sometimes as little as 1/8th of a turn on the adjusting nut can be the

difference between being properly aligned, and just having it "close"

Lightly Grease the splines on the shaft (and on the coupler if you can) with

Spline grease prior to assembly.

[Guest]

Rick, I've read that thread. Lots of good info.So I have had the rear mounts in just about every position. The only way I can get the alignment tool in is with a light tap of a hammer. I hope this wouldn't cause any damage I read on an earlier thread this is sometimes necessary. Once it's in' the only way to move it further is with subsequent light taps. So I know something isn't right. It seems as though the coupler might be off too far for the front mounts to make a difference. Can the rear mounts cause the engine to be up too far in the rear? They do look as though they are assembled properly though.

[img]/media/kunena/attachments/vb/694077=28589-EngineAlignmentToolCrossSection.jpg[/img]After reading through, the only thing I can think of is maybe I missed the alignment sweet spot by making too large an adjustment. I will try tomorrow starting at the lowest setting and moving 1/4 turn at a time. Does this seem like a good approach? It might take all day (I'm still on an injured foot).Just to be sure, Talman, is it not ok to lightly tap the tool to line the gimbal with the coupler? Or should this not be necessary at all even with a major misalignment?Greg

[2850Bounty]

wefivehodges wrote:
Rick, I've read that thread. Lots of good info.

So I have had the rear mounts in just about every position. The only way I can get the alignment tool in is with a light tap of a hammer. I hope this wouldn't cause any damage I read on an earlier thread this is sometimes necessary. Once it's in' the only way to move it further is with subsequent light taps. So I know something isn't right. It seems as though the coupler might be off too far for the front mounts to make a difference.

Can the rear mounts cause the engine to be up too far in the rear? They do look as though they are assembled properly though.

Greg, the rear engine mounts are fixed. There is no adjusting the rear mounts.

The front engine mounts are what we adjust Up/Down to change the angle of the drive coupler.

I'm not all that familiar with the OMC Cobra rear mount arrangement. Could you have something that was added or is missing from these????

As for the alignment bar, when the adjustment is correct, the bar should slided into the coupler with little effort.

As mentioned in the other thread, the Gimbal bearing itself may need to be articuluated some before the bar will align with the AFT end of the coupler.

.

[Guest]

If the top ot the bar is marked only, raise the front mounts.

[Guest]

When I checked my drive alignments this year, I also found I couldn't get the damn tool in there for the life of me. If it did manage to barely slide in, it would be a bear to remove.

When I replaced the gimbal bearings on both drives, as soon as the new gimbal was in the tool slid in like butter perfect grooves. Before I replaced the gimbals, even when I did get it in, I had something similar. Thick on the top, thin on the bottom, I assumed my drive alignment was off. After replacing the gimbal bearings, the grooves were also looking good.

I swear my old gimbals were not installed all the way in. If thats even possible. Just something to think about.

[Guest]

OK today, i took 52 trips and and out of the boat. I started at the highest setting and worked my way to the bottom in 1/4 turn increments. Each turn i left the boat and tried to insert the alignment tool. I was not able to insert it at any adjustment. That was using the butt of my hand or pushing with my hands. I did try a couple of times to set the gimbal straight by tapping lightly with a hammer. I never inserted the alignment tool more than 1/4" into the splines.

I have no idea what to try next. I thought that maybe the rear mounts may have been installed wrong giving it extra height but I don't thing that's the case. I have a second transom mount and can see how the mounts go. Everything seems straight.

I have considered changing the gimbal bearing but my new gimbal tool requires a measurement that involves inserting the tool fully before you can install the gimbal bearing. I can't get to that point. :-( I have no idea where to go from here.

I recently replaced the engine gimbal housing and transom. The front mounts never changed and the transom holes are in the same place. I drilled back through the same holes in the outer skin. I know if these holes moved the front mounts could be at a different height. Any suggestion would be appreciated.

Thanks,

Greg

[Guest]

I'm wondering if my alignment tool could have been machined wrong? the very end that fits into the coupler is 1" in diameter the spline from the u joints has a diameter of 1.12 inches. It seams as though the alignment tool should be smaller in diameter.

Greg

[2850Bounty]

wefivehodges wrote:
I'm wondering if my alignment tool could have been machined wrong? the very end that fits into the coupler is 1" in diameter the spline from the u joints has a diameter of 1.12 inches. It seams as though the alignment tool should be smaller in diameter.

Greg, when you measure the alignment tool, you are measuring as though at the most narrow point in the female splines of the drive coupler.

Or........ as though measuring the low point of the of the universal shaft splines..... not the high point!

Narrow point at the drive coupler = the low point on the actual drive shaft.

Take the .120" difference, and divide it by 2.

That will be the approximate height of each male spline.

If you wanted to, you could profile a mild bevel to the end of the alignment bar.

.

[Guest]

biohazard wrote:


When I replaced the gimbal bearings on both drives, as soon as the new gimbal was in the tool slid in like butter perfect grooves. Before I replaced the gimbals, even when I did get it in, I had something similar. Thick on the top, thin on the bottom, I assumed my drive alignment was off. After replacing the gimbal bearings, the grooves were also looking good.

I swear my old gimbals were not installed all the way in. If thats even possible. Just something to think about.

This was my problem. I replaced the gimbal and my alignment tool slides in nicely. :-) Thanks for your suggestion. I'm doing final adjustments now. Just wondering how picky I should be. I can slide it in with 3 fingers holding the tool exerting a little force. Grooves nice all the way around. I'm just wondering how smooth it can get and what is acceptable.

Greg