I just bought an 88 capri 1950 with the four cyclinder 3.0 frrom my buddy. Hasnt ran pry close to a year i got it to start but only when the starter is engaged. Iam kinda puzzled what mite be i get it sarted an have at a pry good rmp but as soon as i let go of the key it dies. Any ideas would be helpful thanks also first time boat owner
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88 capri 1950 starts but only runs when starter is engaged-gctid389362
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weeps350 wrote:
I just bought an 88 capri 1950 with the four cyclinder 3.0 ................ i got it to start but only when the starter is engaged.
Are your instruments powering up?
1988 OMC ignition was likely contact points, and used the ballast resistor for ignition coil power.
When the ballast resistor is used, during engine cranking, the BR is by-passed.
If the BR is bad, you will not receive normal ignition voltage, but will receive the by-pass voltage while the starter motor is engaged.
As Rickster mentioned, with the ignition key ON, test for voltage at the + side of the coil.
Then test for voltage at the + side of the coil while cranking.
You should see two different voltage readings for each scenario.
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Rick E. (aka RicardoMarine) Gresham, Oregon
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Had exactly the same problem last weekend with my 1855 4.3 merc
Only starting when starter engaged. When key was in "on" position, no power on the coil.
Measured further, and the kill switch did not pass any voltage, due to heavy corroded contacts.
When starting, that whole circuit is by-passed.
New kill switch, problem solved
good luck
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1988 model 1950 Bayliner..... did these even have a lanyard and kill switch back then????
Rick E. (aka RicardoMarine) Gresham, Oregon
2850 Bounty Sedan Flybridge model
Twin 280 HP 5.7's w/ Closed Cooling
Volvo Penta DuoProp Drives
Kohler 4 CZ Gen Set
Please, no PMs. Ask your questions on forum.
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Don't know, but here in The Netherlands they are mandatory, whatever age the boat is.
Thought would be the same in the US.
If not, probably the ignition switch.
Rgds
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2850Bounty wrote:
1988 model 1950 Bayliner..... did these even have a lanyard and kill switch back then????ops, (had it jumpered in the intervening time....I know, leave me alone!).
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OK..... if this boat does have the lanyard/kill switch, then that is certainly a possibility, and it would precisely explain his issue.
Essentially, it would offer the same symptoms as though the ballast resistor had failed, in-that during cranking, his ignition would be powered via the Start-By-Pass, and when the key switch is released to "run", it would NOT be powered.
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Rick E. (aka RicardoMarine) Gresham, Oregon
2850 Bounty Sedan Flybridge model
Twin 280 HP 5.7's w/ Closed Cooling
Volvo Penta DuoProp Drives
Kohler 4 CZ Gen Set
Please, no PMs. Ask your questions on forum.
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All the dash lights and gauges work it does have a kill swith i took that off the other day to look at it has only two wires hooked up to it put there place for four iam thinking it been bypassed as there no lanyard with the boat i tryed pulling it and and put on under it but it didnt help any
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weeps350 wrote:
All the dash lights and gauges work it does have a kill swith i took that off the other day to look at it has only two wires hooked up to it put there place for four iam thinking it been bypassed as there no lanyard with the boat i tryed pulling it and and put on under it but it didnt help any
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Pulled the lanyard kill switch and by pasted it and it runs great now. Thank you all for the help
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weeps350 wrote:
Pulled the lanyard kill switch and by-passed it and it runs great now. Thank you all for the help
Rocketrider 1
2850Bounty 0
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Rick E. (aka RicardoMarine) Gresham, Oregon
2850 Bounty Sedan Flybridge model
Twin 280 HP 5.7's w/ Closed Cooling
Volvo Penta DuoProp Drives
Kohler 4 CZ Gen Set
Please, no PMs. Ask your questions on forum.
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