3M 4000: Cleaner Thinner: Siliconing Rub Rails Feathering Technique-gctid389291

[Guest]

Hi Guys,

I am using the 3M 4000 to caulk the rub rails and as I do I want to feather it nicely and when I am done be able to clean up. What is the best product to use? Thinner, Kerosene? I have siliconed tubs and have used water based type products that I can feather with my finger as I keep dipping it in a Dixie cup filled with water and feather the silicone. I would like to use this technique on the rub rail unless there's another way to do it?

Since water is no good to feather with (unless it is) what chemical have you guys used with the "Wet the finger and feather type technique" for the rub rail and what chemical would you use to clean up with if not the same. I ask it this way because you may use something different to feather technique it where it contacts the fiberglass.

Please let me know how you would silicone and feather the rails and what chemicals you would use?

Thanks

Ed

[Guest]

Honest answer?

I would never use 4000 as caulking. I would disassemble, apply the correct adhesive caulking behind/between, and reassemble. If you do go ahead and use it like caulking, be sure to use 4000UV, because it's fully exposed.

[Guest]

whiskywizard wrote:
Honest answer?

I would never use 4000 as caulking. I would disassemble, apply the correct adhesive caulking behind/between, and reassemble. If you do go ahead and use it like caulking, be sure to use 4000UV, because it's fully exposed.

Agreed - use 4000UV!

When I did my rubrail, I just masked above and below the line where I caulked with electrical tape. Then I smoothed out the line of caulk with my finger, removed the tape and voila... perfection.

[Iproff]

Electriceddie wrote:
Hi Guys,

I am using the 3M 4000 to caulk the rub rails and as I do I want to feather it nicely and when I am done be able to clean up. What is the best product to use? Thinner, Kerosene? I have siliconed tubs and have used water based type products that I can feather with my finger as I keep dipping it in a Dixie cup filled with water and feather the silicone. I would like to use this technique on the rub rail unless there's another way to do it?

Since water is no good to feather with (unless it is) what chemical have you guys used with the "Wet the finger and feather type technique" for the rub rail and what chemical would you use to clean up with if not the same. I ask it this way because you may use something different to feather technique it where it contacts the fiberglass.

Please let me know how you would silicone and feather the rails and what chemicals you would use?

Thanks

Ed

Are you trying to fix a leak by caulking the rub rail???? The rail is protection against bumps, if it is leaking water into the boat it needs to have the screws that secure the rub rail to the boat backed off sealed and re-secured.

Ken

[Guest]

Hi Guys,

I have already removed the rub rail in the area where it was leaking and removed several screws and siliconed them, and replaced them. However there are still has some slight dribbles of water that run down the inside when it rains on the inside of the mid berth wall. At this point I guess I need to silicone the rub rail as well. As far as the 3M 4000 vs. 3M 4000-UV I don't think there actually is a 3M 4000. It is just 3M 4000-UV I just left off the UV. I figured it was common knowledge, or maybe I was wrong or are there 2 different versions? Anyway no one has answered my question about the type of chemical that I could use for feathering and cleaning up in case I get some spillage on the side of the boat or deck. I like the idea of the electrical tape, good trick. I may try that.

Thanks

Ed

[talman]

Alcohol.
..........

[Guest]

Hi talman

Alcohol huh. I thought that would not be strong enough. Ok. Can anyone else confirm this? I hate to get all the way out to the boat yard and find out once I am there it's no good and I need something stronger.

Thanks

Ed

[Iproff]

Electriceddie wrote:
Hi Guys,

I have already removed the rub rail in the area where it was leaking and removed several screws and siliconed them, and replaced them. However there are still has some slight dribbles of water that run down the inside when it rains on the inside of the mid berth wall. At this point I guess I need to silicone the rub rail as well. As far as the 3M 4000 vs. 3M 4000-UV I don't think there actually is a 3M 4000. It is just 3M 4000-UV I just left off the UV. I figured it was common knowledge, or maybe I was wrong or are there 2 different versions? Anyway no one has answered my question about the type of chemical that I could use for feathering and cleaning up in case I get some spillage on the side of the boat or deck. I like the idea of the electrical tape, good trick. I may try that.

Thanks

Ed

Ed if it still leaks you need to take the rub rail off and seal the seam of the upper half and lower half of the hull. Sealing the rub rail to the hull to prevent a leak is a repair that will cause you a lot of problems down the road.

We had a guy on here that use to say we always find time to fix it right the second time.

Ken

[talman]

http://www.baylinerownersclub.org/fo...ht-replacement

[trimjb]

Maybe Acetone? Try a tip that you find on DAP tubes at Home Depot.

[Guest]

Have you looked on the container to see what to use for cleanup? What ever the manufacturer recommends for cleanup is what I would use and as stated by someone else the electrical tape method is the way I have seen glazers apply a sealant when abutting large commercial windows.

[talman]

I didn't come up with it on my own.

[Guest]

Iproff wrote:
Ed if it still leaks you need to take the rub rail off and sealt seam of the upper half and lower half of the hull. Sealing the rub rail to the hull to prevent a leak is a repair that will cause you a lot of problems down the road.

We had a guy on here that use to say we always find time to fix it right the second time.

Ken

+111

[Guest]

Why electrical tape and not painters tape? It seems the electrical tape would be to narrow and would leave a sticky residue when removed.

[Guest]

Good Question? I would think there would not be too much sticky residue if the tape is removed within a few hours and its not sitting out in the direct sun on a hot day. But I guess overall electrical tape other then being a bit more flexible around curves, blue painters tape would probably be a better choice. Anyone else out there want to chime in? Hurricane?

Thanks

Ed