The Bayliner Owners Club is a gathering place for Bayliner Owners and prospective owners. No matter what size or model of Bayliner Boat that you have or are contemplating, we have members here who have that same model and would enjoy discussing it in a friendly, welcoming environment.
PLEASE HELP SUPPORT OUR SITE
The Bayliner Owners Club and its Decades of stored boating information is funded by you, the people that visit here. This funding comes from member donations, or through your clicking on advertisements.
Joining the BOC is easy and free.
If you join, you can choose to either contribute and not see any advertising, or you can choose not to contribute, and you will see the same advertising you are seeing right now.
Thanks for visiting the Bayliner Owners Club!!
Please do us a favor by clicking on, then spending a minute visiting our advertisers.
I want to add a fuse panel inside my engine bay that will not remain constantly powered. It will only be for about 8 fuses. I think putting it there will make wiring easy for some additional items.
the question is, where should I pull the power from?
Gilligan wrote:
I want to add a fuse panel inside my engine bay that will not remain constantly powered. It will only be for about 8 fuses. I think putting it there will make wiring easy for some additional items.
the question is, where should I pull the power from?
There is only one option............... the "Common" terminal.
Rick E. Gresham, Oregon
2850 Bounty Sedan Flybridge model
Twin 280 HP 5.7's w/ Closed Cooling
Volvo Penta DuoProp Drives
Kohler 4 CZ Gen Set
Rick must have been in a hurry! Usually he has more to say.......nthego:
The common terminal on the back of the MBSS (main battery selector switch) has 12V+ when the switch is in any position except "OFF".
You should install a fuse or circuit breaker close to this switch sized to the wire that feeds your remote fuse panel. This will protect the wire in case it gets shorted to ground. An unfused wire will deliver the total battery fault current till the wire burns up!
From Table IV of ABYC E11
For wire with 105┬░ C insulation rating Allowable Amperage of conductors for systems under 50 volts
That chart didn't paste too well, but the first number is the wire size (AWG), the second number is the amperage allowed outside of engine spaces, the last number is the amperage allowed inside engine spaces.
CPSS wrote:
Rick must have been in a hurry! Usually he has more to say.......nthego:
The common terminal on the back of the MBSS (main battery selector switch) has 12V+ when the switch is in any position except "OFF".
You should install a fuse or circuit breaker close to this switch sized to the wire that feeds your remote fuse panel. This will protect the wire in case it gets shorted to ground. An unfused wire will deliver the total battery fault current till the wire burns up!
From Table IV of ABYC E11
For wire with 105┬░ C insulation rating Allowable Amperage of conductors for systems under 50 volts
That chart didn't paste too well, but the first number is the wire size (AWG), the second number is the amperage allowed outside of engine spaces, the last number is the amperage allowed inside engine spaces.
You ain't kidding... 15 cats must have Rick's tongue. :kidding
So, the common is also labeled Feed on my switch I assume, right? Now, I'm not quite sure I'm getting your chart right. What fuse should I use if I run a size 10 wire from the MBSS the new panel?
I agree with Jim. I'm an electrician and the NEC codes say that #10 wire is good for 30 amps. The ABYC says that #10 is good for 51 amps if used inside the engine compartment. If you fuse it at 30 amps you will be safe and comply with AYBC specifications.If you have a GUEST battery selector switch the COMMON is labeled FEED
CPSS wrote:
I agree with Jim. I'm an electrician and the NEC codes say that #10 wire is good for 30 amps. The ABYC says that #10 is good for 51 amps if used inside the engine compartment. If you fuse it at 30 amps you will be safe and comply with AYBC specifications.If you have a GUEST battery selector switch the COMMON is labeled FEED
You'll not find a 50 amp fuse protecting a 10 AWG wire on anything I install!Sorry, but in this case I would not go with the AYBC recommendations for overcurrent protection Vs wire size.
That ABYC standard is for wire rated at 105 degrees C! Most common wire is rated for something less like 105C or more commonly found is 90C wire. You can also use these wires but the current they can pass by ABYC code must comply and will be derated from the above chart info. I do not have time to find the chart right now but 30A for a #10 AWG, 90C wire is about standard.
I believe we all may have missed something Mike C asked for in his original post and that was a source that will not remain constantly on. Now while I agree with the above postings about the back of the MBSS for a connection and that is a not constant source if the switch is turned off, maybe Mike was asking for a source that is hot only when the key is on. If that's the case, that's a whole different response as far as where to get the power, available source current, the possible use of a higher current source and relay to gain the key on only ability, etc.
So, Mike C, what type of "not constantly on" power are you looking for? When would you like your buss to be powered? Just for clarification.
Nauti Knotts wrote:
That ABYC standard is for wire rated at 105 degrees C! Most common wire is rated for something less like 105C or more commonly found is 90C wire. You can also use these wires but the current they can pass by ABYC code must comply and will be derated from the above chart info. I do not have time to find the chart right now but 30A for a #10 AWG, 90C wire is about standard.
I believe we all may have missed something Mike C asked for in his original post and that was a source that will not remain constantly on. Now while I agree with the above postings about the back of the MBSS for a connection and that is a not constant source if the switch is turned off, maybe Mike was asking for a source that is hot only when the key is on. If that's the case, that's a whole different response as far as where to get the power, available source current, the possible use of a higher current source and relay to gain the key on only ability, etc.
So, Mike C, what type of "not constantly on" power are you looking for? When would you like your buss to be powered? Just for clarification.
I would like it powered when the MBSS is one 1 or 2 (or both). I will use the Common as suggested.
nthego:
Comment