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Rochester to Holley-gctid387765

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  • Rochester to Holley-gctid387765

    This is a project I have been wanting to do for a couple of years and after reading threads here, I finally have all the parts compiled to do it. I wanted to make sure I wasn't cutting up the existing setup in case I had to go back to the Rochester. So, I am replacing the entire fuel line, the carb, and the throttle lever bracket.

    For others who have wanted to make the conversion from the Rochester Spreadbore to the Holley replacement here is what you will need for the AQ260A engine (1984 Bayliner Contessa with Command Bridge; two helms thus two throttle cables at the carb).

    1 Holley #4175 (Spreadbore replacement) (I purchased a factory refurbished from Holley) $269.00

    1 Gasket Kit #108-37 (from Holley; this is a spacer to clear the thermostat housing) approx. $38

    (Comes with the spacer, top and bottom gaskets, and mounting bolts.)

    1 30" brakeline #813-5468 (powder coated) or 813-1232 (Steel, not stainless), I chose powder coat (from NAPA Autoparts) $5.83

    (I also bought a tube bender at NAPA to bend the brakeline; $13.11)

    (Thanks to Tony, this was a find. I plan to use it for the fuel line from the pump to the carb, as Tony did.)

    1 throttle lever #856839 (bracket that allows 2 throttle cables to hook to throttle lever on carb) (from Volvo) $47.22

    (This is the same bracket that is on the Rochester that has been hard to find but Volvo does still make it.)

    (Rick this is the one you were looking for also.)

    (I do not recall who the member was that actually provided the part number but he is a hero!)

    1 spacer #855891 (spacer between the lever above and the carb's trottle lever) (from Volvo) $10.00

    (you could use #10 flat washer stack to do this cheaper than $10)

    If you look close in the closeup pic, you'll see the small brass space on the top mounting screw.

    Once I get to the installation, I'll let you know how it goes.

    Attached files [img]/media/kunena/attachments/vb/691311=28349-DSC00843.jpg[/img] [img]/media/kunena/attachments/vb/691311=28348-DSC00844.jpg[/img] [img]/media/kunena/attachments/vb/691311=28351-DSC00846.jpg[/img] [img]/media/kunena/attachments/vb/691311=28352-DSC00847.jpg[/img] [img]/media/kunena/attachments/vb/691311=28350-DSC00848.jpg[/img]

  • #2
    Al, this is great!

    I do love the Holley carburetors, and always have. I also like the Q-jet, but if not fully understood, they can be difficult to deal with.

    Can you post photos as you go along?

    .
    Rick E. (aka RicardoMarine) Gresham, Oregon
    2850 Bounty Sedan Flybridge model 31' LOA
    Twin 280 HP 5.7's w/ Closed Cooling systems
    Volvo Penta Duo Prop Drives
    Kohler 4 CZ Gen Set

    Please, no PMs. Ask your questions on the forum.
    If you leave a "post", rather than a "comment", our members will see recent thread activity!

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    • #3
      2850Bounty wrote:
      Al, this is great!

      I do love the Holley carburetors, and always have. I also like the Q-jet, but if not fully understood, they can be difficult to deal with.

      Can you post photos as you go along?

      .
      Will do. I would like to begin this weekend but am traveling on Monday to Arizona and do not want to leave a problem unanswered if I run into difficulty.

      Besides, making my normal call to you for help if I am not at the boat is a non starter. :livid:

      Comment


      • #4
        Al, that is all I used and it works great. That "Bilge Engineering" works good. The line is the perfect length too! I am on season 4 with my Holley and have not even adjusted it ever.
        Tony, Cape Cod, MA
        Vice Commodore Bourne Yacht Club
        1994 Carver 390 Cockpit Motor Yacht
        454 Merc Cruisers inboards
        "HOLODECK"
        2014 10' hard bottomed Dink powered by 3.3HP Mariner 2 stroke
        www.bourneyachtclub.com

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        • #5
          Al, I did not see your photos until just now.

          I love it when people make the correct repairs and/or adaptations! Good on you! :coo-


          Rick E. (aka RicardoMarine) Gresham, Oregon
          2850 Bounty Sedan Flybridge model 31' LOA
          Twin 280 HP 5.7's w/ Closed Cooling systems
          Volvo Penta Duo Prop Drives
          Kohler 4 CZ Gen Set

          Please, no PMs. Ask your questions on the forum.
          If you leave a "post", rather than a "comment", our members will see recent thread activity!

          Comment


          • #6
            tonyiiiafl wrote:
            Al, that is all I used and it works great. That "Bilge Engineering" works good. The line is the perfect length too! I am on season 4 with my Holley and have not even adjusted it ever.
            I am hoping I too can just bolt it on and go. I do not want to have to do any adjusting of the carb.

            I appreciate the help you provided in getting me to this point of the conversion.

            Comment


            • #7
              2850Bounty wrote:
              Al, I did not see your photos until just now.

              I love it when people make the correct repairs and/or adaptations! Good on you! :coo-

              Just trying to keep the variables to a minimum and therefore also minimize the phone calls to you at 0500 or during dinners with "Household 6." :surr

              Comment


              • #8
                LatAVN wrote:
                I am hoping I too can just bolt it on and go. I do not want to have to do any adjusting of the carb.
                Al, the only external adjustments will be the low speed air adjustment screws, and idle speed stop screw.

                This should take only a few minutes to do.

                You may want to also check the choke helix adjustment when cold, and then again when warmed by the electric element.

                .
                Rick E. (aka RicardoMarine) Gresham, Oregon
                2850 Bounty Sedan Flybridge model 31' LOA
                Twin 280 HP 5.7's w/ Closed Cooling systems
                Volvo Penta Duo Prop Drives
                Kohler 4 CZ Gen Set

                Please, no PMs. Ask your questions on the forum.
                If you leave a "post", rather than a "comment", our members will see recent thread activity!

                Comment


                • #9
                  2850Bounty wrote:
                  Al, the only external adjustments will be the low speed air adjustment screws, and idle speed stop screw.

                  This should take only a few minutes to do.

                  You may want to also check the choke helix adjustment when cold, and then again when warmed by the electric element.

                  .
                  Roger. Fingers crossed that it goes smoothly.

                  Comment

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