Serious question regarding Marine Tex vs. Gel-Coat repair-gctid387349

[wvboater]

Last year, during an epic storm on the river that broke one of my mooring whips off, the back of the boat came in repeated contact with some of the steel hardware on the floating dock. The result was the complete abrasive removal of a large portion of gel-coat just above the swim-step on the rear fin-like portion of the step which extends downward from the transom. I posted last year about repairs, but since it was above the water line, have put off actually doing the work. The fiberglass is exposed and for the time being I have been covering the area with white duct tape ( a hillbillies favorite repair fix-all) to prevent water from reaching the fiberglass. I am ready to do a more permanent repair and have been researching extensively the differences in applicability of Marine-Tex versus going with a full bore gel-coat repair which due to the curved surface as well as the area involved (about 2" by 6" curving around) looks like it would be a job for a professional. I am leaning towards covering the area with Marine-Tex since it is in an inconspicuous area of the boat. Looking for recommendations either way (again!) and whether I am completely in left field thinking that the Marine-Tex would be a viable solution??WVboaterPics added as requestedamage:

[img]/media/kunena/attachments/vb/690893=28485-Damage.jpg[/img]Close Up:

[img]/media/kunena/attachments/vb/690893=28486-Damage Close Up.jpg[/img]Temporary Repair (WV standard body repair with duct tape!!)

[img]/media/kunena/attachments/vb/690893=28487-Temp Repair.jpg[/img]

[Go Aweigh2452]

While Marinetex is good stuff, it really is not made for above water repairs. It looks like a light putty color over time. It will look better than duct tape. The right stuff would be gel coat repair and if you feel intimidated, there are a ton of youtube videos on how to apply it, The repair sounds like you want to use the two part gel coat repair with color match tubes and not the little tube that is meant for light scratches, topping off holes, etc. That kit costs less than $50 (even at West Marine).

There is also a company out there that has exact color matching gel coat but I don't recall their name off hand. Someone may recall it and answer or you could google it.

Over all, I think the gel coat repair is faster then using marinetex because of final sanding and adding polish over it.

If you intend to sell your boat someday, the new buyer may want to know why the repair was not done with the right stuff and question other maintenance items... just sayin...

[Guest]

I dunno about putting marine-tex as a replacement for gelcoat, I personally have used to to fill in rotted wood and seal a cracked block. The stuff works great and is sandable, but doesnt leave a great finished product as it hardens liek concrete. The stuff I have goten both times is grey, not sure if it comes in white?

If it was my boat, I would have the gelcoat fixed, they can make it look like new again.

[yachtman]

Although some may use it as a repair material it should not be used as such. Marine tex is a patch not a repair. Some may disagree but for good results make a real repair

[wvboater]

I understand about the gel-coat now, but looking at suppliers I see polyester gel-paste, gel-coat, gel-coat with wax, and different brands. All I would need is white gel-coat and I understand that it may not exactly match what is on the boat as it would if I ordered from Spectrum. Seems like the polyester gel paste is a better fit for larger areas versus a scratch or a gouge. I am also wondering what quantity would be needed. The area is about 12 sq. in. so do I need a pint, a quart? I am sure one of the little two oz. tubes with the coloring agents would not come close to making an acceptable repair?

WVboater

[Guest]

I'm pretty sure a pint is enough, but a photo or 2 would answer that for sure. Spectrum can provide a good match - you are best to order from them.

What damage is there below the gelcoat layer? In other words, is there filling needed before the gelcoat is applied?

For larger surfaces, like you have, gelcoat is best when sprayed. If you're not really set up for that, I'd suggest spending the money to have a pro do it. if you can take the boat to someone, I'd bet you can get it done for

[wvboater]

but I will take a shot or two and post it either tomorrow or Monday. I am leaning towards a pro since I am not really comfortable approaching this, but then again, it could be a good learning experience. Hopefully my local dealer that I use for service will have the capability, and will do it after this years pullout. Until then, I will have to bear the sight of a fresh new application of white duct tape!! :greedy_dollars::greedy_dollars:

WVboater

[Guest]

never underestimate the power of duct tape

[wvboater]

See initial post for added pictures,

WVboater

[Guest]

Pretty easy repair if you use the right products. Only difficulty will be in the technique because it's not a flat surface. Start by grinding the surface of the fiberglass down to expose clean fiberglass. Grind away some of the adjacent gel coat too (use a 90deg pneumatic die grinder for this with a 3" flexible disk, 36 grit). Next step is to fill the void with a flat spreader to get the right shape. Use structural filler for this, it's a polyester resin product with suspended fiberglass (fiberlay structural putty for example). It spreads very easily and you'll be amazed at how hard it cures. Finally, pickup a Preval disposable sprayer and some gel coat to finish the job. Good luck.

Gary

[wvboater]

that is the most informative take on my problem that I have received yet. I never had a clue about the disposable sprayer, fantastic info! After your detailed response, I am confident that I can actually accomplish the needed repairs. Thanks again,

WVboater

[Guest]

A couple more tips. Remember to sand the surface of the filler with 80 grit before going at it with the sprayer. Also, sand the adjacent gel coat (about 1" or so) with 220 grit by hand to scuff it up. When the gel coat has cured, you'll sand that with 220 grit as well (wet sanding is best). A small block as a sand paper backer is a good tool to use instead of hand sanding, but you'll want to do some hand sanding as well because or the curved surface. When it comes to spraying, thinner coats are best. Don't try to get it all in on the first coat or it will sag. You may need 2 to 4 coats depending on how far the filler is from the surface. When you're satisfied with the gel coat and 220 sanding (remember, it needs to be blended in to the adjacent gel coat), work your way up to 800 grit. I'll fill you in on what to do from there if you get to this point. Hope I explained it ok.

Gary,

[wvboater]

Haven't figured out when I will start the project, but rest assured the boat will not rest during boating season as long as the duct tape can be replaced. Will either post or message with progress in order to receive additional tips, etc. Thanks for everything, the BOC comes through again.

WVboater

[wvboater]

Haven't figured out when I will start the project, but rest assured the boat will not rest during boating season as long as the duct tape can be replaced. Will either post or message with progress in order to receive additional tips, etc. Thanks for everything, the BOC comes through again.

WVboater