Problem getting starter off 305 mercruiser.-gctid386978

[Guest]

Hey all. I am trying to get my starter off for replacement. the local NAPA has Marine Starters for around $200 for my engine. So I decided I would save the installation fee and replace this myself. Not that hard of a job so I thought.

My engine compartment doesn't really offer much where room is concerned for this type of repair. So I am going in blindfolded since I cannot see the starter or see the bolts.

I removed the first bolt with no issues. Good one more to go. That is when I hit a snag. The second bolts head is too close to a hollow metal object. I know it is hollow because when I hit it with my knuckle it makes a hollow thunk back.

What is this hollow sounding object that touches my bolt where I cannot get a ratchet or wrench on the bolt? Flywheel dust cover? Does it come off? Why would they put it so close to a bolts head? 0 clearance.

[2850Bounty]

Chad, if you can get one more start up from this motor, I'd re-install the one bolt that you just removed.

I'd then warm the engine up before attempting to remove the stubborn bolt.

Since you are Mercruiser (168 tooth flywheel), here's the staggered bolt pattern motor style that you'll have.

Note the bolt bore locations.



Use a six piont socket and/or end wrench ONLY.

You can crack the bolt loose while warm......, and then return to the task after things cool down.

Just don't break a bolt off..... that would not be fun!

Side note: not all starter motor nose housings are the same today. Be sure to verify the bolt lengths for the new starter motor nose housing.

A tad bit too long, and a bolt can bottom out, leaving you thinking that the nose housing was fully clamped to the engine, when it was NOT! :thumb

Next thing that may happen, is that one bolt may shear off.

Edit: one more thing....... this is a great place for the automotive Never-Seize product.

Coat the new bolt threads with this, and you won't have any trouble when removing these bolts next time.

Just don't use the Automotive version for anything under the water line.

.

[dmcb]

Rick, I think the problem is he can't get to the bolt, not that it won't turn.

[Chief_Alen]

You need a thin walled socket. Dbelectrical maybe spelled wrong has marine starters alot cheaper.

[2850Bounty]

dmcb wrote:
Rick, I think the problem is he can't get to the bolt, not that it won't turn.

Doug, that may be what he's suggesting......, but it should not be the case. See image.

Chief, there are some issues with some of the HTGR/PMGR motors being sold on e-Bay.

If DBE can provide a HTGR/PMGR motor that incorporates all steel reduction gears, then yes..... he may be a great source.

If he cannot provide this, then you'll want to contact Richard @ Seamanufacturing in Florida.

Richard can provide a motor that uses the all steel reduction gear set.

I refuse to use the motors that incorporate the nylon ring gear..... and many of them do! :thumb

Just an FYI and heads up on that!

Doug, his engine will use the 168 tooth flywheel.

The starter motor for this uses the staggered bolt pattern, unlike the 153 tooth Volvo Penta flywheel and straight across starter motor bolt pattern.

Attached files http://baylinerownersclub.org/media/...tern.jpg[/img]

[Guest]

I just changed out my starter on the same motor, (used a $60 from DB Electrical, as suggested by Alan). It was a tin plated biyatch to get at those bolts. Which one can't you get at, the one closer or the one farther from the flywheel cover? (the one farther from the center of the engine, or the one closer?).

[Guest]

You must not be angled right for the nut, it should go as I have done mine twice. The real problem comes when you go to reinstall because you can only get one hand in for access, hold the starter and start the bolt.

I'm not sure what type of boat you have but mine is a trophy with a bait well on one and a fish well the other.

I had to cut a hand hole inside the sidewall of the bait well for hand access and when I was done the starter I sika flexed and screwed on another panel and it worked perfect.

As far as getting your starter back in; I used a piece of 3/8" dia dowling that i tapered at one end and long enough to stick out of the starter when its in position. I used this dowling as a giude to get the starter in position and start the first bolt. I then removed it and started the other bolt. It may be easier if you attach wiring to starter first depending on your mechanical ability.

[2850Bounty]

FWIW, these little HTGR motors weigh approximately 11-12 lb. only.... some even less according to specs.

[Alaskanmutt]

Old trick for automotive starters (well and transmissions too) was to get a longer bolt (by a few inches) saw off the head, bevel the edges then start in one of the holes, made perfect line up pins. and easy to remove, and they don't fall out while manuvering the starter around.

Looking at my 2452 I will have to remove the exhaust to even check the bold on the starter, ain't no room for a big guy.

[Guest]

Rick unfortunately this starter is dead as it gets. When turning the key all you get it one single click from the solenoid. The first of the two bolts came out fine so I am guessing without remembering someone must have used a type of never seize which I will use putting it back. The bolt next to the solenoid is the easiest to get to since it is on the outside of the engine next to the engine compartment. The other bolt just has something touching the head of it. I cannot get a six point socket or wrench on it. I am using a standard socket not impact. So the sidewall of the socket is relatively thin.

When looking at the starter from behind it is the right bolt. Which is also the longer of the two bolts I think. All I know from feeling around down there is that something is touching one side of the head of the bolt. Whatever it is that is touching the bolt is large but hollow. That is why I thought it might be a dust cover or something. Whatever it is, it is attached and metal. I will probably have to get a small mirror to see what is going on down there.

[Guest]

TrophyTroubles wrote:
You must not be angled right for the nut, it should go as I have done mine twice. The real problem comes when you go to reinstall because you can only get one hand in for access, hold the starter and start the bolt.

I'm not sure what type of boat you have but mine is a trophy with a bait well on one and a fish well the other.

I had to cut a hand hole inside the sidewall of the bait well for hand access and when I was done the starter I sika flexed and screwed on another panel and it worked perfect.

As far as getting your starter back in; I used a piece of 3/8" dia dowling that i tapered at one end and long enough to stick out of the starter when its in position. I used this dowling as a giude to get the starter in position and start the first bolt. I then removed it and started the other bolt. It may be easier if you attach wiring to starter first depending on your mechanical ability.

Good idea with the dowel bolt. I was wondering how I was going to install it one handed. I don't have a compartment next to mine to cut a hole thru. I don't have much room next to the engine so I will have to navigate the starter out to the front of the engine to get it out. I just wish the manufacturers would give a few more inches here and there to make accessing this stuff easier. Jeez the engine doesn't have to removed for everything does it? LOL. After this I have to change the oil and get it ready for the water. I have no idea how I will even access the drain plug on this. Would be nice to have the hose installed already on the drain plug. As for the starter it would be nice to shape shift into a gnome.

[Guest]

Can you get a pic of your starter? Even if I can't see something with my own eyes, I often shove a camera in and snap some blind photos (usually at least one of them will show me what I need to see). That would help you (and us) visualize the issue trying to remove the bolt. If it ends up being some benign piece of metal (e.g. flimsy heat shield or something), then you might be able to get away with flexing it out of position a bit.

My memory is foggy regarding your threads starting a couple years ago--how did you end up with a Merc. on a 1985 model?

[Guest]

Optimus wrote:
Can you get a pic of your starter? Even if I can't see something with my own eyes, I often shove a camera in and snap some blind photos (usually at least one of them will show me what I need to see). That would help you (and us) visualize the issue trying to remove the bolt. If it ends up being some benign piece of metal (e.g. flimsy heat shield or something), then you might be able to get away with flexing it out of position a bit.

My memory is foggy regarding your threads starting a couple years ago--how did you end up with a Merc. on a 1985 model?

Not a bad memory it is. Yes I have a 1985 bayliner with a volvo setup on it. The boat in question is a 1980 sea ray 225 srv. I will post pics soon as I can get them of the boat and the starter area.

[Guest]

SirXTC wrote:
Not a bad memory it is. Yes I have a 1985 bayliner with a volvo setup on it. The boat in question is a 1980 sea ray 225 srv. I will post pics soon as I can get them of the boat and the starter area.

Ok--I got confused there for a moment. I currently own an '85 Command bridge 2450 and previously owned a Sunbridge of the same year/model. The engine bay is somewhat "tight" but not that bad quite honestly. Had a previous boat (also 24 feet) with a dog house hatch cover--I couldn't even get my arm passed my elbow between the deck "lip" and exhaust manifolds. WAY TOO TIGHT a space.

[2850Bounty]

Your title implies Mercruiser, yet your signature implies Volvo Penta.

Which engine are you replacing a starter motor on?

In either event, I can't see what would be preventing access to the inside area bolt.



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