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Tilt Unit - Only Goes Up...-gctid386345

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    Tilt Unit - Only Goes Up...-gctid386345

    Bayliner 2150 Ciera Sunbridge - AQ225D Volvo Penta w/ 280 Outdrive:

    My tilt unit will only go up and every once in a while it will go down (most of the time I ride with the nose pointing up at the sun! JJ). I thought it may have been the switch but I have 2 switches and it does the same on either one. The tilt motor has 2 wires coming out of it, one red and one black, and one wire, the black one, has been melted a little from the exhaust but it's not that bad... Can someone tell me a good way to start the trouble shooting - in maybe a A, B, C order? Photos would be great too!

    Am I wrong in thinking that since it comes up then the motor must be good? Seems to reason that this would be the case... Also, on the top of the trim unit there is a box that I am thinking has relays of some sort??? If I use a 12v lead, say a battery charger @ 10amps(?), and ground the black lead from the charger to the block and touch the red + lead from the charger to either of the 2 tilt unit wires, should it go either up or down (depending on the wire I touch)?

    Thanks!

    #2
    What kind of trim pump? On mine, it has a blue and green wire that attaches to solenoids on the end on the pump side. Those solenoids go bad. You sure on those colors?

    Trouble shooting: http://marine-engines.wikia.com/wiki..._Does_not_Work

    Solenoid...

    http://www.ebay.com/itm/Trim-Pump-Solenoid-Mercury-Mariner-35-150HP-Mercruiser-/230608649032


    Doug ;}
    MMSI: 338068776
    "Go Aweigh to" Photos < click on red letters... 2001 Bayliner 2452 w/6.2 HO (paid for)


    sigpic

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      #3
      Not sure on the colors - I know the one that is melted a little is black - or very dark green - I don't have the boat to go look - It's at storage...

      Comment


        #4
        I have had that issue before. Now I keep mine full down all the time unless sitting in shallow water or working on something. If I recall, when I had the issue I simply reversed the leads to make it go down or up as the case may be.

        Comment


          #5
          Wish I would have thought of that - instead, I was in a desperate situation and had to get out of the boat and stand on the outdrive to get it to go down far enough to get the reverse latch to lock! It was ugly but it worked...

          Comment


            #6
            Go Aweigh2452 wrote:
            What kind of trim pump? On mine, it has a blue and green wire that attaches to solenoids on the end on the pump side. Those solenoids go bad. You sure on those colors?

            Trouble shooting: http://marine-engines.wikia.com/wiki..._Does_not_Work

            Solenoid...

            https://"http://www.ebay.com/itm/Tri...2<br /> <br />
            Working on a Volvo Penta... Are the above for the same outdrive? It says Mercury...

            Comment


              #7
              Note to all: Craig is asking about his mechanical lift out unit.... not a hydraulic tilt/trim pump motor.

              Craig, if this is a two wire motor, the control unit reverses polarity for up/down.

              Actually, if reverses polarity no matter which motor.

              There is a micro swith inside of the black control box.

              If the two long black casing screws are too tight, it squeeze the box and will affect the micro switch operation.

              Make sure that these screws are not too tight, and give it a try.

              If that doesn't do it, then you have a wiring problem, a bad relay switch, or a faulty micro switch.

              See post #4 in this thread re; NOT operating the motor without the control box in the loop.

              .
              Rick E. (aka RicardoMarine) Gresham, Oregon
              2850 Bounty Sedan Flybridge model
              Twin 280 HP 5.7's w/ Closed Cooling
              Volvo Penta DuoProp Drives
              Kohler 4 CZ Gen Set

              Please, no PMs. Ask your questions on forum.

              Comment


                #8
                sometimes, just jiggling the harness works too. Old wires, ya know?

                Comment


                  #9
                  uphype wrote:
                  If I use a 12v lead, say a battery charger @ 10amps(?), and ground the black lead from the charger to the block and touch the red + lead from the charger to either of the 2 tilt unit wires, should it go either up or down (depending on the wire I touch)?

                  Thanks!
                  Use a jumper wire from the battery positive in an emergency. To one relay will make it go up, to the other will make it go down.I did that to mine to figure out which was which, and why it wasn't going up. My trim limit switch wire was pinched and cut, so I jumped it. Don't need it. Those were added to keep morons from running with the outdrive too high.

                  Comment


                    #10
                    green650 wrote:
                    Use a jumper wire from the battery positive in an emergency. To one relay will make it go up, to the other will make it go down.I did that to mine to figure out which was which, and why it wasn't going up. My trim limit switch wire was pinched and cut, so I jumped it. Don't need it. Those were added to keep morons from running with the outdrive too high.
                    A friendly FYI: Craig is asking about a Volvo Penta mechanical Lift Out unit motor..... not a hydraulic trim system pump.

                    https://"http://www.baylinerownerscl...p.</b>[/COLOR]

                    Too much travel in the wrong direction = $$$$$$$$.

                    .
                    Rick E. (aka RicardoMarine) Gresham, Oregon
                    2850 Bounty Sedan Flybridge model
                    Twin 280 HP 5.7's w/ Closed Cooling
                    Volvo Penta DuoProp Drives
                    Kohler 4 CZ Gen Set

                    Please, no PMs. Ask your questions on forum.

                    Comment


                      #11
                      those bolts holding the case unit together are important. the top of the case on mine was loose- one bolt was missing somehow and the tilt operation was giving me fits like yours until I realized it and replaced the bolt.

                      Joe

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                        #12
                        If it only works one way, it's likely a bad relay(one for each direction) or the connection at one relay. On my current and prior boat, I eliminated this whole relay box entirely and built my own transom mounted unit. Basically a radio shack project box, a marine grade DPDT momentary switch, and a ATC fuse holder with a 20A automatic ATC circuit breaker make it pretty much fool proof.

                        Tilting up, the titl mech clutch slips when the drive is all the way up, but when tilting down you want to sneak up on it until you hear the drive grab the set pin. Worse case you go too far and the unit bottoms out and trips the breaker, and a couple seconds later power is back.

                        In my opinion, this setup is much more simple and reliable, and easy to trouble shoot if you have a problem.

                        This is only good for the Volvo AQ drives where the tilt motor is only used to raise and lower the drive, not as a trim motor. There is no need for the switch at the helm IMO. I prefer to stand near the stern and raise/lower the drive from there.

                        Comment


                          #13
                          I'm pulling the boat home tomorrow afternoon and I'll start jiggling wires, looking at connections, looking at the relay box and go from there. So far I understand there is now way to jump the motor as it will possibly break / burn up something...

                          Comment


                            #14
                            uphype wrote:
                            So far I understand there is now way to jump the motor as it will possibly break / burn up something...
                            Craig, this is my comment from post #6 in Joe's lift out unit thread;

                            [COLOR]"#0000FF" wrote:
                            Here's something that I did not mention.... but you must be careful.

                            If you extend the vice rod to 1/2 travel (or so), you can operate the motor by connecting Pos/Neg to it.

                            Just give it short bursts of power, and stay clear of the Fully Retracted position.

                            When fully retracted, the vice rod raises up and activates the micro switch just prior to topping out.

                            If the Micro Switch is out of the loop, and if you were to fully retract the vice rod as to reach the stop....., this is when you can shear off the threads of the cast iron clutch component. [/COLOR]

                            You will not burn up the motor, per se', but you can risk damage to the clutch part.

                            Do the above carefully, and you'll be OK.
                            Rick E. (aka RicardoMarine) Gresham, Oregon
                            2850 Bounty Sedan Flybridge model
                            Twin 280 HP 5.7's w/ Closed Cooling
                            Volvo Penta DuoProp Drives
                            Kohler 4 CZ Gen Set

                            Please, no PMs. Ask your questions on forum.

                            Comment

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