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New members with new to us old boat - 89 bayliner 2755-gctid386073

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    New members with new to us old boat - 89 bayliner 2755-gctid386073

    We are the "new" owners of a family members boat (89 Bayliner 2755 Sunbridge, 460 OMC King Cobra). The boat has 200hrs on it, with about half of that being in the Pacific Ocean. It was flushed out at the end of every outing and other than needing a new carburetor (now has an Edelbrock Carb on it) was pretty much a trouble free boat for my father in law. He became a sailboat captain 12 years ago after he retired and quit using this boat. Since it had sat so long I did the following after we had it shipped out to us:

    1. 50 gallons of fresh fuel with 2 bottles of Seafoam and some Starbrite enzyme fuel treatment (the tank appeared to be empty?).

    2. Removed the spark plugs (which were not the correct ones) and sprayed fogging oil into each cylinder and then replaced with NGK UR-4 plugs.

    3. 2 quarts of Marvel Mystery Oil poured into the crankcase to clean things up and "loosen" the oil for its first oil change.

    4. Removed the corroded and seized up thermostat (ordered new one but have not installed yet) and poured in the motor/water pump coolant and a couple bottles of super flush.

    5. › a can of Carb cleaner sprayed liberally over and in the carb

    I let everything "soak" for a few days and crossed my fingers as I turned it over.a few sputters and she fired up! It seemed to be running really smooth and images of bikini clad women dancing on the boat began to fill my headbut then problems, she started to overheat! Yada yada yada, lots of research on line, forums, Selco manual, talking with friends and I learned the following:

    There are plenty of Bayliner and OMC haters, clogged manifolds and the lack of spare parts, the high cost of anything that has the words "built for marine use" attached to them, lol.

    So the exhaust elbows were removed and cleaned in acid (wish I would have done that outside my shop!) and it looks like there is good wall thickness to these "worth their weight in gold" hunks o metal. I still have not removed the manifolds in fear of breaking a stud and have tried several time wasting "hillbilly" ways to clean them out without removal. I have given up and am now working on spraying copious amounts of penetrant oil and dancing ancient Indian rain dances for good lucknot sure my fears are justifiable but I have broken a bolt or two in my day

    I removed the impeller and made a sort of "closed" system by pluggin some of the water lines so that the coolant would stay in the block. I have started the motor a few more times to distribute some of the fluids and to heat up the manifold bolts to hopefully get the penetrant inside the threads. When I have started it I noticed two things that caused some alarm. The oil pressure would jump to about 65 and then "bounce" up to almost 80psi. It is so fast and erratic my first thought was a bad connection. It occasionally will smooth out and just every once in awhile "bounce" or do several "bounces" and calm down. The motor seems to be running very smooth. I have not let it run for more than a minute and a half at one time and have not let the temp get anywhere close to too hot.

    My goal this week is to get the manifolds off and clean them and reinstall. Put the new thermostat in. Change the oil with an "intermediate" oil that will be run for a few hours before being dumped and replaced.

    I know this has become a long story, but does anyone see any problems so far? (other than the usual OMC jokes I have seen, it was free and we hope to be able to get a few seasons out of it). Any suggestions? What oil would you suggest to use in it? What octane is good? It lists 89 but would higher octane gas be a problem other than making my wallet lighter? I don't mind running "better" gas in it if it is a good thing. Thanks and I am sure I will have many more questions as we work on this boat! Mr and Mrs Hollywood

    #2
    I have essentially the same boat and engine.

    One thing that has always been difficult with this boat when running it on the trailer in the back yard is to get the muffs precisely placed over the water intakes on the outdrive. Whenever I start it up like that, after it is running, I always get off the boat to check to make sure the discharge water is splashing out of the bottom front of the outdrive. If the muffs are off the slightest degree, it will not be sufficiently cooled and will eventually heat up. Check the water discharge after the engine is running. And make sure the water from your hose is running full blast. If the water discharge, after the engine is running, is not splashing out of the bottom front of the outdrive, try to adjust your muffs because the engine is not getting cooling water.

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      #3
      I'm not normally part of the welcoming committee but when you mentioned the Bayliner and OMC bashing on other sites it reminded me of why I don't go to *boats anymore. In fact a week or so ago someone (Bounty) suggested I go there for a possible different answer to a problem I'm having.

      Aside from the great advice you're going to receive, one of the best things about the BOC is no one bashes your pick of boat for 10 replies before you finally get 1 straight answer.

      Welcome to the BOC!:arr

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        #4
        Yes.... welcome to the BOC.

        1. I would have drained and discarded any 12 year old fuel. 2 or even 3 year old may be salvageable....... but not 12!

        5. Be careful with carburetor cleaners that contain MEK. Great stuff, in fact, the better of carburetor cleaners contain MEK....., but this should not be left to sit on the composite parts. Not all contain MEK.... just a heads up!

        Do NOT attempt to remove exhaust manifold or riser bolts without first having warmed the engine up. As per you; "I have broken a bolt or two in my day"

        Heat is your friend here because the alternative is penetrating oils that may require weeks or even months to get where there need to be on rusty and corroded threads.... if even possible.

        This is a biggy: Study and learn the sea water path from the drive to the sea water pump to the engine T-stat housing and onto and out the exhaust.

        When this is all working as it should, you will not have any over-heating issues.





        In 1989, this is very likely the "Baby King" or Dog Clutch King, but you can look here to identify your KC drive.

        Pay little to no attention to the Bayliner bashers, but I'd take heed from those who may mention certain aspects of the KC drive......, parts availability and cost in particular.

        We have several members with the KC drives, so ask away, and these guys should be able to help you.

        Drive shaft bellows are no doubt toast by now. I'd sure be replacing these.

        Engine drive coupler alignment should be checked as well.

        If you should end up needing a starter motor, forget the OEM style and look at the HTGR/PMGR motors.

        As for octane rating, the higher rating fuel offers a higher flash point as to avoid detonation. I'd stay with at least the 89.

        Take your time, and make certain that the engine cooling system is all up to snuff and will not over-heat.

        Questions:

        Since this boat was at no cost to you, are you prepared to spend some money getting it serviceable?

        Do you have a budget in mind?

        Boats are almost always expenses ONLY..., and are rarely investments in the normal terms of finacial recovery. We just use it up in the form of enjoyment.
        Rick E. Gresham, Oregon
        2850 Bounty Sedan Flybridge model
        Twin 280 HP 5.7's w/ Closed Cooling
        Volvo Penta DuoProp Drives
        Kohler 4 CZ Gen Set

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