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    Upper gear removal-gctid385638

    Hello all...I am trying to replace my bellows and as a first timer I am stuck on the removal of the upper unit. I got half way by disconnecting it from the intermediate unit (see pic) I been trying to pull it out according to the book instructions I have, but no luck. I have loosen the clamps already on both sides and loosen the bellow could some one guide me in the right direction on how to remove this please.......Thanks.

    [img]/media/kunena/attachments/vb/689171=28123-IMG_2649.jpg[/img]

    #2
    I had the same issue when i did mine, i cut the bellows off, grabbed the u joints and the upper and started tuggin and wiggling it side to side and up and down. Eventually it came right out.

    Comment


      #3
      Hector, sounds like the female yoke is rusted to the PDS.

      Do like k-townguy says, and cut the bellows out of your way.

      You may need to shock the female yoke and PDS. Move it FWD and AFT until it frees up.

      Normally, the transmission will turn sideways as you have done, and will slide right out.

      Worst case scenario.... one of the bearing crosses will need to be taken apart.

      Worst worst worst case scenario, we end up cutting the center universal section in half. The transmission is then removed, and we can work at getting the female yoke from the PDS splines.

      Be sure to grease the yoke and PDS splines when going back together.

      Here is what you'll have inside of the flywheel cover and just inside of the bellows area.

      Attached files [img]/media/kunena/attachments/vb/689242=28135-PDS coupler and drive shaft 2.jpg[/img]
      Rick E. Gresham, Oregon
      2850 Bounty Sedan Flybridge model
      Twin 280 HP 5.7's w/ Closed Cooling
      Volvo Penta DuoProp Drives
      Kohler 4 CZ Gen Set

      Comment


        #4
        Yes, I think is the rust of years not been taken care of. I will keep trying as I have for the last 2 days (Memorial day project) Thanks for your advice guys and I will let you know when it comes out.

        Comment


          #5
          well... I cut the bellow off to have a better view and also removed the steering yoke (I think that is what is called) cover, I pulled, turn, moved up and down I even place a come-along (see pic) to help me pull as I tried to move up and down and sideways, but no luck..!I was thinking of putting some heat on that red cover (see pic) where the shaft goes in just enough to loosen the shaft what you think Rick....? am I going to burn a seal or something if I do that...?

          [img]/media/kunena/attachments/vb/689505=28178-IMG_2666.jpg[/img]

          [img]/media/kunena/attachments/vb/689505=28179-IMG_2670.jpg[/img]

          Comment


            #6
            Did this boat sit for along time?

            Usually the steering action keeps the yoke moving on the primary shaft and doesn't let the splines freeze up like that.

            If you can swing the trans as far to one side as possible, and try heating the splined end of the yoke(the part furthest in and harder to reach of course) with a propane torch it might let go. Give it several heat cycles if possible.

            I hate to say it, but it's likely the PDS bearings in the housing are shot and need replacing if the rest is that bad, which in a V-8 boat means removing the engine or at least unbolting it and sliding it foreward enough to get access to the front bearing/seal in the housing.

            Comment


              #7
              rkcarguy wrote:
              • 1 wrote:
              • I hate to say it, but it's likely the PDS bearings in the housing are shot and need replacing if the rest is that bad,
              • which in a V-8 boat means removing the engine or at least unbolting it and sliding it foreward enough to get access to the front bearing/seal in the housing.



              • 1 wrote:
              • I would agree.
              • Yes, in Hector's case the engine would need to be removed or at aleast slid forward and turned sideways.

                With the later V-8's (flywheel cover w/out grease fitting), the PDS is a single bearing, in which case the PDS will come out the rear.




              Hector, as per our conversation, you'll need to sacrifice one of the Universal Joint components. I'd cut the center section just behind the bearing caps.

              Then you can remove the transmission completely out of your way.

              Now you can drive on the female yoke forward and pull it rearward, shocking it with a brass punch.

              It will eventually free up and come off.

              Attached files http://baylinerownersclub.org/media/....jpg[/img]
              Rick E. Gresham, Oregon
              2850 Bounty Sedan Flybridge model
              Twin 280 HP 5.7's w/ Closed Cooling
              Volvo Penta DuoProp Drives
              Kohler 4 CZ Gen Set

              Comment


                #8
                Thanks guys for your input. Rick I will cut that part and try to put some heat on, hopefully NOT to do too much damage because removing the engine will be a major project that I am NOT willing to do for many reasons. I will continue to try until my last drop of hope.

                Thanks a million. I will keep you guys updated.

                Comment


                  #9
                  What Rick and I are saying is that it's very likely the engine has to come out anyway.

                  The bearings on the primary drive shaft are likely junk if everything else is rusty and stuck together inside the bellows. If they are ran as is they can eventually spin, ruining that flywheel housing which is a $600+ part, and you get to pull the engine ANYWAY to fix it all, plus there is a risk of it sinking the boat if the bellows is breached when they fail.

                  The engine is NOT hard to unbolt and slide forward, in both of my engine swap cases I had a friend approach from the stern with a forklift with extended forks and remove/install the engine for me. It was about 5 minutes to pull and maybe 15 to install and get the bolts in, then I did the rest of the assembly at home.

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Guys for all of you who have done this bellow replacement "I salute you" I finally got this piece out after for days and a come-along......I guess these pics will tell the story.Thanks to all for your good advice.

                    [img]/media/kunena/attachments/vb/690371=28262-IMG_2679.jpg[/img]

                    [img]/media/kunena/attachments/vb/690371=28263-IMG_2688.jpg[/img]

                    [img]/media/kunena/attachments/vb/690371=28264-IMG_2691.jpg[/img]

                    [img]/media/kunena/attachments/vb/690371=28265-IMG_2695.jpg[/img]

                    Comment


                      #11
                      NOT pretty, but you won the fight!
                      Tony, Cape Cod, MA
                      Vice Commodore Bourne Yacht Club
                      1994 Carver 390 Cockpit Motor Yacht
                      454 Merc Cruisers inboards
                      "HOLODECK"
                      2014 10' hard bottomed Dink powered by 3.3HP Mariner 2 stroke
                      www.bourneyachtclub.com

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Yea, I think is only half the battle and hope putting it together will be easier.......

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Picture 2 and 3 tell me everything I need to know.

                          In picture 3, the end of that yoke on the outside(where it stuck furthest into the boat) USED to be a seal surface! Look at 2850bounty's post where he points out the "aft seal position"....and compare to yours. It's this seal that keeps the water out of the bearings once the bellows has failed.

                          In picture 2, where the primary shaft is shown in the flywheel housing, there is a seal in there and behind it a pair of OPEN ball bearings which need to be greased regularily. The rust, and lack of a nice smooth surface on the yoke, and lack of grease in this area tells me that the seal was not sealing for some time and those bearings on the PDS shaft are toast. See if you can move the shaft back and forth with a prybar, it may be gone already. You can cave that seal in with a hammer and screwdriver, pull it out and at least view the condition of the aft bearing behind it but from what I see I'm pretty sure I know what you will find.

                          I guarantee if you ignore me regarding these bearings you will do this all over again and possibly replace the engine bellhousing(flywheel housing in marine jargon) along with it, be out $600+ and get to pull the motor anyway. I have done this job several times and seen it countless times on this forum....but it's your boat and your choice.

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Ryan, I hear you re; the aft-most seal, but in all honesty, that seal will not prevent water from entering the PDS cavity given enough bellows breach.

                            The female yoke itself is not a completely sealed affair.

                            The dust cover at the AFT-most side of the female yoke is a friction fit only. I see many that have come loose.

                            This rear seal is actually intended to hold grease back against an open bearing.

                            The double edge sword is.... if this seal's ability is greater than the FWD seal's ability, the FWD seal may be pushed out via too much grease all at one time. Now no future grease can find it's way to the AFT bearing.

                            This first image should help Hector with his decision.

                            The clamping collar alone will run about $380, plus labor to install since it must be shimmed to the BB and Gear Case.

                            Attached files [img]/media/kunena/attachments/vb/690563=28285-Broken Flywheel Cover explosion.jpg[/img] [img]/media/kunena/attachments/vb/690563=28284-Clamping Collar shoulder area.jpg[/img]
                            Rick E. Gresham, Oregon
                            2850 Bounty Sedan Flybridge model
                            Twin 280 HP 5.7's w/ Closed Cooling
                            Volvo Penta DuoProp Drives
                            Kohler 4 CZ Gen Set

                            Comment


                              #15
                              Looking at image #4 it appears there will be no hope of clamping a new bellows to that.Looks like you are

                              [img]/media/kunena/attachments/vb/690569=28286-thumb-lg-bigscrew.jpg[/img] 'ed
                              " WET EVER "
                              1989 2459 TROPHY OFFSHORE 5.8L COBRA / SX
                              mmsi 338108404
                              mmsi 338124956
                              "I started with nothing and still have most of it left"

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