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    New transom wood prep question-gctid385408

    I was wondering why couldn't I laminate my two pieces of 3/4 ply together, outside the boat, resin coat all sides, edges, outside the boat, apply build up, two layers of 1708 Biaxial cloth, again, outside of the boat, let cure, and THEN, install in the boat, thickened epoxy between hull and wood, of course, tab in, resin in strips around the edges, call er done?

    Inquiring minds, well, mind....

    #2
    Of course you can.

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      #3
      I think that building up the transom outside the boat may lead to a real pain on installing it. It may seem like a pain installing the ply in layers but I think that it will prove to be the best and least painful way. You will be dealing with less weight one layer at a lime and fitting each piece can be more precise.

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        #4
        I personally would laminate the two together beforehand. The issue, as Hurricane stated, is the weight, but it will be by no means excessive. I like to be able to work with the piece before I install it and find it easier to ensure good coverage and penatration of the epoxy before it is installed. I will be doing this exact thing in the next month or so on the 19 footer I'm building in the garage.

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          #5
          Speakrdude wrote:
          I was wondering why couldn't I laminate my two pieces of 3/4 ply together, outside the boat, resin coat all sides, edges, outside the boat, apply build up, two layers of 1708 Biaxial cloth, again, outside of the boat, let cure, and THEN, install in the boat, thickened epoxy between hull and wood, of course, tab in, resin in strips around the edges, call er done?

          Inquiring minds, well, mind....
          Jim, we just had a rather long and involved thread on this topic. http://"http://www.baylinerownersclu...om Repair.</b>

          Read what Greg had to say about all of the "dry fitting" that I verbosely preached to him about.

          This is a dry fitting of the individual layers and in an assembly order as though they were being laminated.

          This is then taken back apart, and when the fit is correct, the actual assembly is done one layer at a time.

          Hurricane wrote:
          I think that building up the transom outside the boat may lead to a real pain on installing it. It may seem like a pain installing the ply in layers but I think that it will prove to be the best and least painful way. You will be dealing with less weight one layer at a lime and fitting each piece can be more precise.
          Amen...... + 1 The weight would not be my concern........ the precision fit would be!

          Here's my take, and John pretty much nails it:

          We want as flat a transom as possible when finished.

          With the transom stripped of all old core material, we will see some flex to it.

          I prefer to see the layers installed individually due to this.

          This more so allows the first layer to be pulled completely and tightly against the hull (transom) using every available fastener hole that you can..... even if it requires adding a few more.

          Prior to the cure, pull your straight edge backers tightly against the resin wet first layer and hull exterior.

          This ensures flatness/straightness, and once curred, it becomes "locked in" so to speak!

          Now you have a nice flat transom and first core layer......., all ready for your second and third layers.

          I see NO gain by doing a build-up outside of the hull, and then attempting to install it.

          In fact, I see more potential for an error if done this way.

          Your call Jim..... I know your talents..... and you'll do just fine!

          .
          Rick E. Gresham, Oregon
          2850 Bounty Sedan Flybridge model
          Twin 280 HP 5.7's w/ Closed Cooling
          Volvo Penta DuoProp Drives
          Kohler 4 CZ Gen Set

          Comment


            #6
            Speakrdude wrote:
            I was wondering why couldn't I laminate my two pieces of 3/4 ply together, outside the boat, resin coat all sides, edges, outside the boat, apply build up, two layers of 1708 Biaxial cloth, again, outside of the boat, let cure, and THEN, install in the boat, thickened epoxy between hull and wood, of course, tab in, resin in strips around the edges, call er done?

            Inquiring minds, well, mind....
            I did. Everything came out fine. Just dry fit the pieces from time to time during the process. Lots of pictures of the process on my restoration in the completed projects Section.

            Comment


              #7
              Another thought:

              Once two or three new core layers are completely laminated outside of the hull, on perhaps saw horses or ___, you are locked-in!

              IOW...... there aint no moving or flexing this laminated layers of core material after that point.

              Now you install this against a hull transom that may not be completely flat or straight!

              Guess which component now must flex in order to fully mate up and bond, and do so with limited voids?????

              .
              Rick E. Gresham, Oregon
              2850 Bounty Sedan Flybridge model
              Twin 280 HP 5.7's w/ Closed Cooling
              Volvo Penta DuoProp Drives
              Kohler 4 CZ Gen Set

              Comment


                #8
                Actually, I wasnt talking about the plys of wood as much as I was the layers of cloth. And then, layer the 10" 6" 4" strips are the outside edges to tie it all together.

                Comment


                  #9
                  I jsut finished my transom project thanks to lots of great advice from this forum. I can't speak to doing the layers outside the boat. I will say it was relatively easy doing them inside the boat though. The only thing I had a problem was with vertical fillets. Once i had my "Peanut Butter" right that wasn't a problem. Cut strands mixed with cabosil in a very thick mix made the fillets go very nicely. With the cabosil you'll use way more than you thought. I would start with the gallon can.

                  When applying the first core to the hull, I would wet matting on both the hull and the plywood, I would use a thickened resin here. I didn't, and I don't feel like I got as good of a bond as if I used thicker material. I am still happy with it. It's just one of those things that if I had to do it again I would have.

                  I also would have had my respirator on all the time. There were times when I didn't and I thought I was gonna die. That might be an exageration but I felt terrible. Migraines, heavy breathing,etc. MEKP is nasty stuff. I also might have been more careful with my grinder. I'm not sure if I posted pics but I put a pretty big gash in my leg.

                  With the first core use 2x4's and threaded rod as many as you can fit. I had 6 the length of the transom. Pull that sucker in tight. Cut the transom hole later. It's nice drilling holes in that area for the threaded rod. I read a trick someplace about putting vaseline on the rods. I wish I knew that earlier as I had to throw them out after using them.

                  Second core I would wet mat the first layer and the second and smoosh them together. I would use thickened resin. This time you can screw to the first layer. I would try to sneak a couple of 2x4's in too. I think it helped.

                  If you are doing it outside the boat, ignore this. :-) The way you suggested would be the way I would do it if I were going to build it outside the boat. It sounds like you may have watched Frisco Jarretts vids. I liked his videos.

                  Best of luck!! After doing it, I would do it again. I may even look for bigger boats with a bad transom. I bet there would be some good deals out there. :-)

                  Greg

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