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For those with older points/condenser ignitions-gctid384642

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    For those with older points/condenser ignitions-gctid384642

    I'm just posting this as a heads up for those still running points'n condenser ignitions... and nothing wrong with that if you do.... and really anyone buying parts these days...

    I recently ran into a strange trouble-shooting issue and I wanted to share the result so to maybe help others.

    I'll save you the details but the bottom line is CHECK THE QUALITY OF PARTS YOU BUY !!!!!

    The key on the rotor I had, that only had about 4 hours of wear on it, was STRIPPED. The below photos should pretty much explain why to check out the quality of parts.

    The rotor on the left is a NEW one I just picked up today at NAPA. Note the SOLID key inside as opposed to the one on the right which is a Sierra .



    Here, while obviously you can't feel it via a picture, take my word that the rotor contact in the center is MUCH stronger on the unit on the left which keeps the rotor in place and in good contact with the center contact of the cap.

    Also note the SOLID build of the rotor on the left as opposed to the mostly hollow one on the right.



    The new rotor was around $8.00 with tax. The old one (on the right) was about the same price when I bought it last season. I would under normal circumstances never think to check the build quality of a part like this.

    Neither part is made in the USA. The NAPA is made in Mexico, the Sierra made in China. I would not have believed there was such a quality difference on two imported parts like this.. It's a piece of plastic with a piece of metal attached. How hard is that?

    Anyway, I just wanted to share. I don't want to get into any Geo-political debates on manufacturing. The only reason I posted the countries of origin is to show that neither part was made in the USA and that for all intents and purposes, there should be no difference in the quality of the two parts. In addition, you'd think Sierra (at least I thought), being they seem to specialize in marine parts, would have the better quality part.

    For those that do have points'n condenser ignitions... so far I'm real happy with Pertronix Ignitor. No more points, no more adjustments, took about 15 minutes to install and the boat has never started as easily as it does now, but that's for another thread.
    Aquatic Muse
    Mount Vernon, WA
    MMSI: 367498870
    '79 Bayliner Santiago w/ Mercruiser 470 power and drive

    #2
    Mileskb wrote:


    For those that do have points'n condenser ignitions... so far I'm real happy with Pertronix Ignitor. No more points, no more adjustments, took about 15 minutes to install and the boat has never started as easily as it does now, but that's for another thread.
    FYI: if in that 15 minutes you included checking your ignition timing as per OEM BASE and TA........ then you should be OK.

    If not..... you'd best do it!

    .
    Rick E. Gresham, Oregon
    2850 Bounty Sedan Flybridge model
    Twin 280 HP 5.7's w/ Closed Cooling
    Volvo Penta DuoProp Drives
    Kohler 4 CZ Gen Set

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      #3
      Well, full disclosure.... 15 minutes to install the pertronix... about 45 minutes all inclusive to set the timing which must be done. My point (excuse the pun) was more about checking the parts we buy, but yes... absolutely just don't swap and run..
      Aquatic Muse
      Mount Vernon, WA
      MMSI: 367498870
      '79 Bayliner Santiago w/ Mercruiser 470 power and drive

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