location of drain holes inTrophy 2002 WA water in sub-floor of cuddy, not draining

[Guest]

A few months ago, someone had a Trophy 2002, that they were renovating, and provided pictures of the hull with the cap off (it was great work). Can someone provide me a link to that project (sorry, i can't locate it).

For more than 5 years I have had trouble with finding water under the floor in the v-berth. First noticed it after the floor caved-in due to rot. I now have (actually my wife's x-mas gift to me) a dedicated 6 1/2 horse power Wet/dry vac that I store with my boat, to clean out this water. Previously, used a wet/dry vacs at Carwashes to remove the water, but I really want it to drain out the bilge.

The floor had rotted, and was replaced 2 years ago, and I had a new floor (1" marine plywood -thicker than before) with Fiberglass on top (was supposed to also be glass on the bottom, but they failed and tried to hide it), and I had them install a hatch/port in the floor (that is when I found out they didn't glass the bottom of the floor). For a while, I would find between 3 to 27 gallows of water under the floor.

Last Sunday, I found an inch of water on top of the floor, in the v-berth, while taking my wife fishing, but the boat was not sinking, and the water will neither drain out the bilge, or bottom of the boat (in case there was a hole in the boat). This really effects the towing characteristics of the boat. Last week's 1" on top of the floor, is the most water I had seen in the boat. The next day, I removed the side panels, launched the boat, and tied up to the covered floating dock, but failed to recognize water on the fiberglass hull (looking through those side panels and the round hatch/port-hole in the floor of the cuddy) near the long stingers (run from Near stern to right about the entry way to the v-berth, one on either side of the fuel tank). I opened up the motor well hatch, and both battery hatches on either side of the motor well, and located the drain holes (there is no drain hole directly to the bilge pump (maybe there is a safety concern). There are two holes for bilge drainage in the walls on either side of the bilge pump area, the starboard side was clogged with an oily-sand combination. There are also holes leading into this area from the boxes on either side of the walls, and I was able to vacuum these out, and reach down and put my finger, and a screw driver through (so they are clean). I have no idea where any more drain holes forward of the motor well area (forward of the battery compartments) would be located. I can't see in there. I'll try again on Sunday, and bring a smaller flashlight (maybe one of those with the light/viewing hose).

So I turn on everything, as if I was sitting in the water and fishing (next test was to run on plane and see if I could find water entering the boat) at first I didn't notice any water, and it took me a while to move seats and things to the back of the boat. Then I found water in the boat. I am happy to report that I think I found were the water is entering the boat (Nope not a thru hull), but the bait tank. The plumbing, where the water enters the tank near the top, leaks when the bait tank is full, and overflow draining (I had actually plugged that during the last trip to throw a few gut/gill hooked snall striped bass. It is probably leaking 8 oz every 1 minute into the bilge. Today I removed the plastic nut,and added silicone sealer to both sides of the tank, let it set and will tighten tomorrow. That explains why some times I have water in the boat, and other times I have none (I don't always use that bait tank as I have a 30 gallon portable).

The storage closet/step that you step-on when entering the v-berth, has a 1/4" PVC at the bottom for entrance and exit, and water flows it the area under the floor in the v-berth). I have constantly tried to vac out that 1/4" PVC leading to under the deck of the boat with my 6 1/2HP dry vac to remove any clog (no luck). In order to get all the water out, I have to lower the bow with the trailer jack, and vac from under the v-berth floor. I purchased and tried using a 20 foot de-clogger/snake (purchased at Wally-world), which easily fits into the 1/4" PVC located in that step/storage area (What is this storage area used for, as the porta-potty will not fit in there). I was able to easily snake that device a distance that was 2 feet longer, than the distance from the v-berth entrance to the motor well (should have gone all the way outside through the boat drain (however, I know there is no straight shot to the boat's bilge/drain plug).

I pulled the boat to a location with a 45 degree incline. Not drainage from outside the boat, but all water flowed towards the stern, and out from under the v-berth's sub-floor. I again tried using that plumbers snake, with no complete release of the water, but did notice some water flow out the drain hole (about 1 drop every 3 or 4 seconds). So I am positive something is clogged.

Any suggestions, help will be greatly appreciated. I think water is under the fuel tank, or some place I can't recognize.

[Guest]

It can be found in the completed projects forum and Jeff Bisson was the Trophy Magician.

[bhawes]

I've got the same (or similar) boat. Whatever is causing the leak has been there for a long time as it was what caused the underside of the cuddy floor to rot. There is a continuous pathway for water to flow from the bilge forward to the area under the small step as you mention. I am unaware of any connection between that compartment and the area under your cuddy floor. The boat has to be in a somewhat bow low attitude for the water to flow forward from the bilge to that step. In normal boating that water will remain in the bilge, or be pumped out by your bilge pump, before being able to come forward.

Try not using your bait tank the next few trips out, and see if you're still taking on water. Whatever this problem is, you need to find it and get it retified soon. I hate to say it, but if your floor was rotten, your stringers are most likely in a similar condition. There's obviously been a lot of water in there for a long time.

[Guest]

My boat is always stored Bow-down on the trailer, because I had the single axle replaced with a 6,000 lb Heavy duty axle, larger tires (ST225/75R-15/E1 ), and stronger Shackles, and this really lifted the backed of the trailer (really have to back into the water to float the boat). I tow with a 4x4 Expedition that is slightly lifted, and use Firestone tow-bags, and the trailer still leans down towards the truck.

I'm going to push in the 'V' area at the bottom of that Bilge wall and locate that drain. I will even bring a small portable video camera (those $39 dollar Walmart ) and video tape what is down there in the bilge. Biggest problem is that block of wood which the seacock is mounted, and sits with 3/4" from the wall (the bilge wall forward of the transom.

There are some great images in Mr. Bisson's post. He makes that renovation almost look easy. I say 'almost', because I ran into an issue on Sunday. Apparently, I can't even cock with silicone correctly. Previoulsy I indicated that I used sealant around plumbing for the water input of the bait tank (where I previously found the leak), and came back the next day to tighten. My wife asked what I had done, then informs me, You are supposed to let that set for a day or two. .

Sunday, returned back to Texoma with another fishing trip with the wife. I started off the day with No water in the bilge (under the v-berth's floor). Spent 8 hours on the lake catching bait, and fishing with my wife (she did most of the catching). I decided to start keeping striped bass late in the trip (we only kept 3 to around 18".. no mim size limit on lake Texoma), and placed the live fish in the built-in bait tank (I have a 30 gallon portable for the actual bait), to allow us to release the fish alive if we didn't catch enough for a meal at the end of the day. I made an attempt to keep the baittank from filling with water to a height lower than the plumbing (turning off the pump to allow overflow through the tube). One time I forgot to turn-off the pump, and I noticed water spilling out onto the deck while placing another fish in the tank. While placing the boat back in the boat shed (still sits bow down on the trailer), I inspected through the hatch, and found water under the floor, which I vacuumed out (it was a good Big-Gulp (20 oz of water). I failed to confirm that the bilge would be completely dry, but that wasn't a lot of water consider the amount of time on the lake fishing.

I don't see any blackness along the stringers (but I can't see on the inside area of the fuel tank).

Years ago, after having two major hub failures, I had Road Runner trailer install a 6,000 lbs axle (much larger tires) and new shackles. This greatly raised the trailer height. Before fuel prices shot up (cheaper to keep the boat in an enclosed boat-shed near the lake, than tow it 70 miles), I would store it on a pad next to my driveway. I back my boat and trailer up my driveway, so it was in serious "bow down" towards the alley, and water would collect under the floor (see it come up above the floor, and I would use my home Bissel Big-Green steam machine (a wet/dry vacuum) to clean up where possible through the step-storage in the vberth. With the wheels chocked, I had to use 2 cinder-blocks, and the jack stand raised to maximum to get water to flow to the back of the boat for washing it down.

I think it's a chicken/Egg situation. The floor rotted, and something big came through, possibly rotten wood, maybe a plastic storm swim jig, like the one I found clogging the port-side drain hole on Saturday (kind of scary and thought it felt like a big dead wolf spider). That's why I recommend live bait (it eventually decays, or gets cleaned out by ants ). Now the water will not drain down the bilge, which could lead to the floor rotting again, except I am able to vacuum under the floor thru the little 4" round hatch that I requested be installed in the floor (pretty good idea).

The floor from the factory, has NO protection from rot. It's exposed wood under the floor, and substance on top (not a fiberglass resin) that peels right off in big chunks. I now have the top of the floor (with thicker marine plywood) coated with fiberglass resin on top (not on bottom ).

Thanks for your help. I plan on towing my boat down to the Florida (start off in Tampa area, and then down to the Florida Keys) in July. I prefer to remove all liquids when towing a long distance (run the fuel tank dry, while carrying a portable fuel tank).

[Alaskanmutt]

If you look at the keel the forward part of the Trophy has a belly on it. So unless you keep it nose high on the trailer there will be a low spot that collects water. Some have said there is no direct drain from the front to the back but there is. (I ran a fiber optic camera through the holes to make sure.) They don't drain fast but they do drain. It may take a few days.

Mine was a through bolt that had sheared off of the trim tabs, created a 1/4 in hole that drove me crazy trying to find, (until I bought the fiber optic camera to look under the battery compartments.) And might I say, it was a well spent 150 at Lowes (or Home depot) they are really affordable now a days and let you see things you would never be able to see.

http://www.homedepot.com/Tools-Hardw...&storeId=10051

[Nigels]

If it does not drain then it needs cleaning, or your bow is not stored high enough. I think there are at least three bulkheads each with a very small tube that allows water to flow between the compartments and in theory to the bilge but only if the bow is up quite high.

Afloat, if there is water in the bilge it can flow forward to the cuddy if weight is transferred forard or when slowing down, bad design, so your cuddy floor will always get wet and if there is no air circulating then it will never dry. I have a small 4x4 inspection hatch just over the drain tube and I am going to leave it out so air can circulate a bit.

I park the trailer flat but with the front jacked as high as it will go and on blocks, drain plug out.

If your water does not drain out when jacked up at the front then get long stiff wire and poke arround, try to get the wire right through to the bilge and visa versa. Use a hose to flush everything out until you get a good flow. But I dont think thats your problem if you suck your cuddy dry then it fills up again then you have good flow from aft, for sure. Your rot problems have been created by storing your boat bow down!

Before you pull your boat off the ramp make sure your bilge has drained completely out the drain plug otherwise when you are on the flat all that water will end up in your cuddy again

[Guest]

Nigels wrote; "I have a small 4x4 inspection hatch just over the drain tube and I am going to leave it out so air can circulate a bit."

Nigels, Where exactly did you place the inspection cover? In the Cuddy Floor? How thick is the floor?

[Guest]

I have that little round port hole/inspection port (5" or 6") about 1.5 feet in front of the step/storage locker.

I think everyone should have it installed.

Looks like a nice place to install one of those little (long like a cigar) bilge pumps, but would require glassing

a location to attach the pump.

I noticed those Fiber-optic cameras (come in a green case) at Home Depot, and I was thinking about purchasing one for this situation (I might run up there right now and purchase one) as I can only stick my head into so many places .

A question?

What is that step/storage locker supposed to store? I don't put anything in it at the moment, but a cooler would work well in that storage locker. It looked to me, that originally it was a 1/4" pvc pipe in there running bow to stern, and it was broken (maybe a anchor or something) and that would have kept it dry enough for a port-a-potty. The openings, on top and still open, are covered with that white putty, calking (same thing down in the bilge).

At the Ramp, the first thing do (if the ramp is not busy) is pull the boat out of the water, remove the drain plug, attach the straps (if no one needs to access the ramp I sit there at an angle and allow it to drain) and slowly pull up the 100 yard incline to the exit of the ramp.

[Nigels]

RussC wrote:
Nigels wrote; "I have a small 4x4 inspection hatch just over the drain tube and I am going to leave it out so air can circulate a bit."

Nigels, Where exactly did you place the inspection cover? In the Cuddy Floor? How thick is the floor?

It is in the cuddy under the porta potty, against the bulkhead and against the step locker, its conveniently right over the drain tube. I didn't make it, perhaps the previous owner or it could have been there from when the boat was manufactured. Not sure of the thickness without going to check but probably about .5 or .75 of an inch.

[Guest]

Holy Moly! I better look under that porta-potty. I just might have one there too. Even if I don't, this is the perfect place to put it. Thanks, Nigels

[Guest]

Thanks for your assistance. I found the drain pipe/hole for the terminating end in the bilge. I was

originally looking, and feeling up against the wall, closer to the fuel tank. I was preparing to remove the

blue box (automatic bilge) and hose/tubing from the live-well pump, when I was finally able recognize that

drain tube (very well camouflaged ) closer to the drain plug and out in the open.

I had a 10' steel threaded rod, and ran it though the drain hole, into that tube, and forced (removing the clog)

it up into the storage locker in the v-berth. Then did the same thing with a "sink Clean" (a small 20' plumbers snake).

No water drained, but I had previously vacuumed it out through the hatch in V-berth.

I hitched up the boat and trailered it to a friends storage area, where they had running water with a hose,

and a steep incline (my storage area has neither) and ran water into the storage box in the 'V-berth', and

waited 30 seconds for it to drain, s-l-o-w-l-y. I then re-ran the rod, and then the plumbers snake, into that

hole, and flushed that 1/4" drain/bilge-pipe, bilge, and watched small pieces of cut plastic, pebbles, white

sticky round things (looked like acoustic ceiling covering) pour out the hole. Drainage was much, much

slower than the water being pumped from the hose (that is expected), but I found I had 1/2 filled that storage

box and much of the area under the v-berth floor. Provided me an opportunity to determine how much time it

takes to drain the v-berth and box (about 4 minutes).

I am no longer in a big hurry to complete the fix to the bait tank (is appears to still be leaking 'a little' "a big gulp

amount during an extended fishing trip), but I expect that water to now be able to drain back to the bilge area,

where the bilge pump can easily handle it.

Something so simple, and yet it has been clogged for years. I recently had dreams where I succeeded with this task,

and was looking forward to getting it done. Although my Expedition has Firestone towing/lift bags, and this boat is less

than half my trucks towing capacity, having 15 to 30 gallons of water stuck up near the bow makes a

big difference in the handling characteristics while towing (until I reach a dry/wet vac). I can now bring that dry/wet vac back

home to clean out the vehicles (I'll probably leave it up there).

Thanks to everyone for their input, and providing assistance, (especially JOHNQ for providing the details to details photo's of 2002

with Cap removed (and thanks to Jeff Bisson for providing those photos) and bhawes for confirming that there is a

continuous path).

[trex600jc]

This is an older post but I’m having the same issue. Is that pic still on here that shows the path of the drain holes? I have water that will not drain from from to back. The bilge area is relatively dry, but water stands in the front cabin and hull.