won(39)t go into reverse-gctid382671

[Guest]

I am having difficulty shifting into reverse. I nearly have to move the lever back a full 90 degrees from neutral before reverse kicks in...and then I'm at WOT! This wreaks havoc when trying to dock! Any insight? Forward gearing works fine.

[2850Bounty]

Silver Fox wrote:

• 1 wrote:
• I am having difficulty shifting into reverse.
• I nearly have to move the lever back a full 90 degrees from neutral before reverse kicks in...and then I'm at WOT!
• This wreaks havoc when trying to dock! Any insight?

Forward gearing works fine.

• 1 wrote:
• Into reverse from Neutral..... or into reverse from FWD?
• You should see full shift cable action (either direction) prior to any throttle cable action.
  
  That's the idea with the single lever throttle/shift units.
• I'll bet it does!

Which throttle/shift unit do you have?

If single lever, it would sound like you have an adjustment issue, if I'm understanding you.

I'd remove the throttel/shift unit, and check to see if the cable clamps are tight as they should be.

See if the shift cable attaching bracket (at the drive Intermediate housing) is fully attached, bolts tight, etc.

On your drive, there is a coupling rod that depresses the Latch Unit "Lock Brace" while making a Reverse gear selection.

If the lock brace is sticky and/or corroded, it requires quite a bit of force to over-come this resistance in order to move the coupling rod forward.

NOTE: when making a FWD shift, the shift cable will extend at the drive.

Conversely, when making a REV shift, the cable will retract at the drive.

IOW, a FWD shift will move the anchor bracket AFT when engaging, and will be pulling down on the vertical linkage arm.

When making a REV shift, the vertical arm will be raised up.

RH or LH prop..... makes no difference!

RH prop.... the arm will be on the Port side.

LH prop (or Duo Prop).... the arm will be on the Stbd side.

If all is OK with the cables, and the connection at the out drive, I'll bet that your problem is within the throttle/shift unit.

.

[Guest]

1. From dead-stop neutral...like when backing out of slip.

I have a single lever controller.

I'm stuck at the salt mine now, but I'll get on her in a few hours and look around at the points you suggested. Thanks.

[2850Bounty]

Silver Fox wrote:
1. From dead-stop neutral...like when backing out of slip.

OK... it could be that the resistance from the coupling rod is causing the throttle to activate earlier than it should.

I'd still do what I've suggested.

[dmcb]

I think the idea of the cable clamp being loose is a good possibility.

The outer cable has to be clamped tight so the inner cable can move without the outer moving. If the outer moves you will have a lot of slop in the shift.

Look right near the shift itself. There should be a clamp near the cable connection to the shifter.

I have had this happen and it would go in one gear but not the other.

Simple fix.

Doug

[2850Bounty]

Here's the attaching bracket that Doug is talking about............ SEQ#32 in this schematic.

The coupling rod is SEQ #3.

The lock brace is SEQ # 45.

[dmcb]

Not the one that gave me trouble Rick.

It is right at the shift control. There is a clamp where the end of the cable is clamped as I recall. It slipped out of the clamp and that let the cable float free. It would go forward but no reverse.

Just a place to look.

Doug

[2850Bounty]

Ah.... you're right.

I was defaulting the clamp at the drive.

But yes..... either could be a place to check.

[Guest]

2850Bounty wrote:
Here's the attaching bracket that Doug is talking about............ SEQ#32 in this schematic.

The coupling rod is SEQ #3.

The lock brace is SEQ # 45.

I believe Rick mentioned this one in his #2 responses above. But, I had an intermitent problem with gettting the boat to go into reverse and it turned out to be a "play" issue with the bracket #2 in diagram and the pin #4 in the picture. I am not sure if there are bushings but once the play issue was addressed, my problems were solved. According to the mechanic, what was happening was that the bracket was moving and because of that, the cable was not moving the shift rod #17 enough to move the shift cone the required amount to engage reverse.

[2850Bounty]

Al, that would make perfect sense in that the anchor arm (what I sometimes call the bell crank) would also be fighting the resistance of the coupling rod against the lock brace. It will feel this while selecting REV, but won't for FWD.

[Guest]

2850Bounty wrote:
Al, that would make perfect sense in that the anchor arm (what I sometimes call the bell crank) would also be fighting the resistance of the coupling rod against the lock brace. It will feel this while selecting REV, but won't for FWD.

Hey, does that mean I am getting closer to being able to change my tag line.......:worth