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Bilge pump control devices-gctid381982

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    Bilge pump control devices-gctid381982

    I'm adding a second, higher capacity bilgepump to my Trophy engine compartment and have been looking at a few float options. I've read numerous posts about the "lever" type control, and like it a lot better than the one that's now installed that cannot be tested without flooding the bilge. I see numerous electronic sensing devices on the market today. The better ones have a test function. Has anyone any experience with these switches, pro or con? Some even have sensors built into them that will not allow them to activate the pump if it senses that it is pollutants (ie. gas or oil) that is causing the "float" to trip. Are these units worthwhile. or am I just adding one more thing that may fail when you need it most. I've not costed them out, but I'd assume that they would be a lot more expensive.
    Bob Hawes.
    Kelowna, B.C.
    1998 Trophy 2052 WA
    4.3 Vortec, A1 G2

    #2
    I really like the Water Witch controls. .I have several installed. I have had zero issues and they work as advertised.
    Jim McNeely
    New Hope a 2004 Bayliner 305 Sunbridge Express Cruiser
    Twin 5.7s with Bravo2 drives
    Brighton, Michigan USA
    MMSI # 367393410

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      #3
      the only problem with these electronic sensors is oil. If you get that on the metal plates they have a problem sensing water as the resistance is to high. I'm a fan of belt and suspenders. Have a water witch and a float switch in parallel. Less likely that both fail at the same time. Even though it gets the cost up to ~$60 the insurance deductible on a sunken boat is a lot higher...... Maybe I just hate to be in the water if I don't want to be there....

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        #4
        JimMc wrote:
        I really like the Water Witch controls. .I have several installed. I have had zero issues and they work as advertised.
        +1
        1989 Avanti 3450 Sunbridge
        twin 454's
        MV Mar-Y-Sol
        1979 Bayliner Conquest 3150 hardtop ocean express.
        Twin chevy 350's inboard
        Ben- Jamin
        spokane Washington

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          #5
          I just went through this exercise myself. I decided one of my bilge pumps will have an electronic sensor (Attwood S3), and the other will have a more traditional float switch. Both will have a manual override to force on. I've got an outboard, though, my bilge will by nature stay cleaner...

          Comment


            #6
            By design the Water Witch switch has an ON delay to prevent false cycling. It also has an OFF delay to help get the bilge dry. Putting a seperate float switch in parallel will negate the ON delay if they are at the same level.

            I have never had an issue with the Water Witch switch with oil coating. On the other hand I have no oil floating in my bilges.

            Also the Water Witch is designed to not turn on with oil to reduce the chance of pollution.

            I think if you have oil in the bilges you need to worry about the source.

            ------

            As to belt and suspenders that is what the helm switch is for.
            Jim McNeely
            New Hope a 2004 Bayliner 305 Sunbridge Express Cruiser
            Twin 5.7s with Bravo2 drives
            Brighton, Michigan USA
            MMSI # 367393410

            Comment


              #7
              I like the old fashon float switches, such as the rule and rule super float.

              Easy to test: simply lift it up and the pump should run. Unaffected by oils

              Read: http://www.baylinerownersclub.org/fo...ad.php?t=35339
              Captharv 2001 2452
              "When the draft of your boat exceeds the depth of water, you are aground"

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