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New to Mercruiser I/O - need advice-gctid381298

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    New to Mercruiser I/O - need advice-gctid381298

    I've had boats since the late 1980s, but until now, they've all been outboards - from a 17' Tracker aluminum to a 22' Trophy and a 21' pontoon. I resisted getting an I/O stern drive boat because of the increased maintenance, but decided that if I really want to get serious about exploring Lake Powell here in Utah, it was the best solution. I now have a 1996 Bayliner 1950 Capri with a Mercruiser 3.0L and Alpha1 Gen II drive. The boat didn't come with an owner's manual. I've figured out many things about the routine maintenance, and have ordered a Seloc manual from Amazon, but I have some questions for you folks who have lots of experience with these types of boats. I want to maintain my boat properly, but would like to save some money where possible.

    As near as I can tell, Mercury recommends 25W30 Synthetic oil. Critical or not??? Is there a less expensive oil that will work OK?

    Is there a Fram or other oil filter which will work instead of the Mercury one?

    Is the outdrive oil the same Quicksilver 80W90 I use in my Merc 60HP Outboard?

    Anybody have an opinion about Turning Point brand propellers and hubs?

    Any money-saving tips or Gotcha warnings about this boat and power train will be greatly appreciated.

    #2
    Boats under warranty should use the manufacturer recommended oil and nothing else but older boats like yours can use less expensive oil, even a cheaper 20W50 but the high running loads and rich fuel mixture will make oil much more prone to sludging so it will need to be changed more often.

    The automotive oil filters will also fit these engines and are cheaper but again I'd recommend changing more frequently.

    Not sure about the gear oil as I don't have the manual nearby, your 80W90 would likely be OK but this oil doesn't need changing as often, just check it for water ingress (milky)

    I've used the standard aluminium and Piranah composite props, both work well, the stainless steel ones give best performance but you'll need to decide what you want the boat to do better before selecting your upgrade, maybe its fine with the prop it has.

    For money saving try to cruise at lower rpm and not WOT but that's the same for all engine types and the only 'gotchas' I can think of are never run the engine with the drive in the trailer position as it can damage the UJ on the driveshaft and never leave the boat with the drive in the trailer position as it stretches the rubber bellows and shortens its life considerably.

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      #3
      Here is a link to the manual for your boat which should answer some of your questions: http://www.baylinerparts.com/Manuals/1950cl95.htm

      As for tips from going from an ob to an I/O, use your blowers prior to every start and at idle. In addition, do a sniff test before you hit the key.....every time. Gas fumes are heavier than air and can collect in your bilge. Every year someone will blow themselves up because they didn't do this.

      You have a pretty sturdy drive system. One common problem with the 3.0 is run-on or dieseling. It's not horrible but it is a bit of a nusciance. Google it and you'll get lots of info.

      Enjoy your boat and welcome.
      Doug
      Hanging Loose
      98 Carver 350 Mariner
      2013-
      KRUSTY KRAB
      2001 305
      5.7 BII
      2006-2013

      Comment


        #4
        I run straight 30w in my Mercruiser, fairly common in my area. I buy merc ignition parts (wires, rotors and caps) and Sierra filters. All can be ordered online for much less. You will want your serial number for ordering parts, it should be on the engine cover. I use the automotive version of the marine plug.
        Partner in a 1999 4788

        Seattle, WA

        Comment


          #5
          grebob wrote:
          I've had boats since the late 1980s, but until now, they've all been outboards - from a 17' Tracker aluminum to a 22' Trophy and a 21' pontoon. I resisted getting an I/O stern drive boat because of the increased maintenance, but decided that if I really want to get serious about exploring Lake Powell here in Utah, it was the best solution. I now have a 1996 Bayliner 1950 Capri with a Mercruiser 3.0L and Alpha1 Gen II drive. The boat didn't come with an owner's manual. I've figured out many things about the routine maintenance, and have ordered a Seloc manual from Amazon, but I have some questions for you folks who have lots of experience with these types of boats. I want to maintain my boat properly, but would like to save some money where possible.

          As near as I can tell, Mercury recommends 25W30 Synthetic oil. Critical or not??? Is there a less expensive oil that will work OK?

          Is there a Fram or other oil filter which will work instead of the Mercury one?

          Is the outdrive oil the same Quicksilver 80W90 I use in my Merc 60HP Outboard?

          Anybody have an opinion about Turning Point brand propellers and hubs?

          Any money-saving tips or Gotcha warnings about this boat and power train will be greatly appreciated.
          I believe you will find Merc oil is 25-40 and it is not synthetic.

          This oil is blended for the high loads of a marine engine and I would not be using ordinary oil in a marine engine.

          We typically change oil once a season so why go cheap on the most important thing you will buy for your boat.

          Sierra has a 25-40 oil available.

          As for filters again get the best and not cardboard based like Fram. I think NAPA have a good filter.

          I believe there was a thread on hear awhile back about filters.

          Comment


            #6
            Either toss the Seloc manual, or use the Seloc manual as a supliment ONLY to the OEM manual.

            Use the OEM for your specific engine model number when it comes time for winterizing.

            Have fun, and welcome to the world of I/O's.

            In the long run, the I/O may end up being less expensive to maintain, IMO.

            .
            Rick E. Gresham, Oregon
            2850 Bounty Sedan Flybridge model
            Twin 280 HP 5.7's w/ Closed Cooling
            Volvo Penta DuoProp Drives
            Kohler 4 CZ Gen Set

            Comment


              #7
              I have both and prefer the Seloc manual. The Mercury manual only comes out if something doesn't make sense in the Seloc, and usually it doesn't help.

              Comment


                #8
                First things first....

                If you have had no maintainence, or have unknown maintainenece, I'd recommend having the drive removed (6 nuts), the impeller replaced (split the top/bottom), the gimbal bearing and bellows checked. Check the engine allignment. This is cheap. Or, do it yourself for even cheaper. Alpha genII is so common that pretty much anyplace can do this simple work.

                These components are critical to the operation long term of your outdrive.

                Oil...get the popcorn. I run whatever decent brand I can get on sale.

                http://baylinerownersclub.org/galler...910&g2_serialN

                Chay

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