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how do I replace one of the exhaust elbows on my 86 AQ225?-gctid380755

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    how do I replace one of the exhaust elbows on my 86 AQ225?-gctid380755

    One of the rubber elbows that comes through the transom has been missing since I got this boat. I would like to replace it, but it looks complicated. I am tired of the exhaust coming out right on to the sterndrive. Is there a secret to installing a new elbow with out taking everything apart. Please help.

    Thanks,

    Dave

    #2
    Ah, the ole rubber hook exhaust relief's!

    There is no short cut here, and this is one of those "let's kill several birds with one stone" scenarios.

    These rubber hooks have a flange on them that is squeezed between the Y-pipe and transom shield.

    The flange also serves as the seal for this area.

    In order to change the hooks the Y-pipe needs to be disconnected from the transom shield. (four bolts from the exterior)

    The exhaust riser rubber couplers need to be removed for this which causes the need to remove the two exhaust risers.

    Once the risers are out of your way, the couplers can be removed. (** replace these... do not reuse them).

    Remove the exhaust bellows from the Y-pipe outlet.

    Now the four Y-pipe bolts are removed, and the Y-pipe is very carefully moved Port/Stbd to break it free from the transom shield.

    (use caution here)

    When the Y-pipe is free, it can slide forward, and the rubber hooks can be removed and replaced along with 5 O-rings.

    With the engine still in place, this is a difficult area to work within..... so bring some patience along with you.

    Here's the birds:

    Your AQ 225 engine uses the red one pc flywheel cover.

    Inside of this F/C is your 2 bearing PDS and PDS seals.

    These need to be replaced if you have no history of them being replaced. Likewise with the riser couplers.

    With the engine slid forward, you may be able to gain access to the front of the PDS for removal.

    If not, the engine will need to come out.

    These are among the easiest engines to remove, BTW.

    Now the Y-pipe work becomes easier because it will slide further forward and out if need be.

    With the engine out of your way, you can also get at the PDS and remove it AFT.

    The transmission also needs to be removed for this... of which is very easy.

    When were the drive shaft bellows or universal drive shaft bearing crosses last changed? If these are also due for replacement..... why not do new rubber hooks, new bellows, new bearing crosses, perhaps transmission re-seal, etc all at one time?

    Parts if you do all of these:

    two riser couplers

    two riser gaskets

    two rubber hooks and nylon spacer/washers

    five Y-pipe O-rings

    two transmission O-rings

    one ea dip stick and drain plug O-ring (same p/n)

    one fill plug gasket

    one drive shaft bellows

    two bearing crosses (Spicer 5-1306X if original shaft)

    two PDS bearings and seals (6206 & 6007 and two 35x62x7mm seals)

    one tube of high pressure bearing grease

    ** Do not use the OEM hose/couplers. They are always too short.

    Instead, purchase this 95mm non-wire re-enforced soft wall wet exhaust hose by the foot, and add 2" to the length of each one so that the clamps are not over the riser outlets.

    .
    Rick E. Gresham, Oregon
    2850 Bounty Sedan Flybridge model
    Twin 280 HP 5.7's w/ Closed Cooling
    Volvo Penta DuoProp Drives
    Kohler 4 CZ Gen Set

    Comment


      #3
      joleda wrote:
      One of the rubber elbows that comes through the transom has been missing since I got this boat. I would like to replace it, but it looks complicated. I am tired of the exhaust coming out right on to the sterndrive. Is there a secret to installing a new elbow with out taking everything apart. Please help.

      Thanks,

      Dave
      If you are talking about the small rubber elbows that exit just below the bellows and turn 90 degrees and have a flattened duck bill type end on them, I am told you have to pull the engine. Will be interested in hearing if anyone has a suggestion on how to do it with having to pull things apart.

      Editing after post: LOL I was going to say that Rick will be chiming in soon. Looks like he was typing at the same time I was. )

      Comment


        #4
        Al, I think that's what he's talking about since he mentioned black soot on the drive.

        Yes.... these are a bugger to get at, and I'd sure want to target as many birds as I could when replacing these.
        Rick E. Gresham, Oregon
        2850 Bounty Sedan Flybridge model
        Twin 280 HP 5.7's w/ Closed Cooling
        Volvo Penta DuoProp Drives
        Kohler 4 CZ Gen Set

        Comment


          #5
          This was as I expected. I was hoping for an easier solution. I guess I will put this on next winter's to do list.

          Thanks,

          Dave

          Comment


            #6
            Or you do this now, Dave, and not worry (during the 2012 boating season) about universal joint bearing crosses, the drive shaft bellows, the PDS bearings, the potential exhaust coupler water flow issues, the manifold/riser transfer ports, etc.

            Just a thought!

            I'd hate like heck to see you post a photo like this first one in a month or two..... or worse yet, like the second photo.

            Attached files [img]/media/kunena/attachments/vb/684554=27603-Broken Flywheel Cover explosion.jpg[/img] [img]/media/kunena/attachments/vb/684554=27604-Rust from water leak 2.jpg[/img]
            Rick E. Gresham, Oregon
            2850 Bounty Sedan Flybridge model
            Twin 280 HP 5.7's w/ Closed Cooling
            Volvo Penta DuoProp Drives
            Kohler 4 CZ Gen Set

            Comment


              #7
              stupid question: what's wrong with the second photo?

              Comment

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