Mando alternator output post snapped!-gctid380252

[Guest]

I was inspecting my Mando 55A alternator wiring for corrosion etc this afternoon as I've noticed some fluctuations with alternator output lately.

This is the first time I've ever inspected properly as I was simply blissfully ignorant about such things until recently acquiring a shop manual.

Anyway....I pulled the rubber boot off the orange output lead connection and lots of rotten debris started to fall out. The terminal post exposed, I proceeded to unscrew the nut (gently) and SNAP! - the whole post just crumbled off the back of the unit

I'm tempted to pull the alternator unit off and try to repair the post by drilling it out and replacing as I know the alternator itself is working perfectly well. The recent output fluctuations are attributed to recently knocking the output cable whilst draining the cooling system. Only thing is, I have also noticed a small jumper wire now broken which went from a small black box about 20mm from the output post to the post itself. I can't tell the colour of this wire but suspect it may be a black ground? Is it worth my while attempting to salvage this unit or should I just install a nice shiny new one? It is 15 years old.

Also, Murphys (or is it sods?) law dictates that this should happen just before the weekend so I wont be able to get a new unit til Monday at the earliest. I notice its still possible to run the engine (idling anyway) without the alternator output and with two fully charged batteries on-board. Would I still be able to use the boat over this weekend without the alternator? Just for a short 10-15 mile round trip to the Admiral and mine's favourite island jetty?

Dave

[boatworkfl]

Take the alternator to a rebuilder and they will replace the post. I do not think I would take a chance on being stuck out on the water. You could use one battery to go out, and save one for comming back in though.

[captharv]

+1

Let a pro do it and test the alternator

I would not run on battery alone.

The battery will be between 12 and 12.6V. The alternator will run it up to about 14.2 or so. The extra 2V will help the ignition system a lot.

Ever try to rope-start an I/O engine?

[Guest]

captharv wrote:


Ever try to rope-start an I/O engine?

Nobody rope starts an I/O anymore, they push start them!

[Guest]

Jeff H wrote:
Nobody rope starts an I/O anymore, they push start them!

Easier when going down hill, eh?

I guess I'll just have to spend the weekend on dry land then. Admiral would never forgive me for knowingly risking being stranded on the water.

Dave

[BLCarl]

You can get a new one at D&B electric for about a $100. Keep the old one for a spare. With a back up it's a eazy fix.

[yachtman]

If you have neen running the engine with out the alt wire connected to a charge sourse you may have fried the alternator. Best take ot to be tested and repaired or vet a new one.

I have also found the best way to get it started is while in thw trailer have some one pull it. When the boat hits 30 mph or so put it im gear.

[driz]

And you don't want to be store buying rebuilt ones either. They don't tend to change out parts like bearings, bushings and things that aren't quite all the way worn out. Take it to the Mom N Pop starter shop and have them go through it. You should pay about 60 bucks and it will be done better at half the price.

[boatworkfl]

You can get the delco version, 105 amp, 1 or 3 wire for about $70.00 free shipping, lower 48.

[Guest]

Thanks guys,

New alternator here in Ireland comes to £180 UK pounds ($250 USD? ) so I'm heading to a repair shop in the morning to see if I can save some money.