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Cut the cord on new charger!?-gctid380171

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    Cut the cord on new charger!?-gctid380171

    Just got the new charger , a Guest 12a 2 bank smart charger #16102, ive searched the recent posts and read the mayhem about the outlet in the engine comp. I want to hardwire it in . my existing charger is original equip. and is connected to the mbss . The new charger says to just connect to the batteries an plug in . What the hell did i buy? Ive searched for installation instructions about running through the switch with no sucess. B4 i lop the end of this cord off and cant return it ,Did i puchase the wrong charger??!

    #2
    I wouldn't hardwire the charger unless the manufacturer specifically noted it as an installation option in the manual. You will most likely void the warranty. It might be easier installing an outlet.

    Comment


      #3
      the battery config is going to 2 identical deep cycles less then 2 years old . i can think of at least 2 guys that are going to stone me for not having a cranking battery but cut a guy some slak . I thought i may have undersized when i bought . My general use is out to the beach in morn back after sundown and on shorepower all night , so i was hoping it woould be enough.

      Comment


        #4
        Looks to me like a manufacturer liability issue from what I just read in the manual. Having it plugged into a GFCI covers the bases for them in the unlikely event that you are standing in a bilge full of water and hanging onto the charger while you are plugged in to shore power. Get a model that hard wires in....or...well, your choice.

        Comment


          #5
          Scraping B wrote:
          • 1 wrote:
          • Just got the new charger , a Guest 12a 2 bank smart charger #16102, ive searched the recent posts and read the mayhem about the outlet in the engine comp. I want to hardwire it in .
          • my existing charger is original equip. and is connected to the mbss . The new charger says to just connect to the batteries an plug in .
          • What the hell did i buy?
          • Ive searched for installation instructions about running through the switch with no sucess.
          • B4 i lop the end of this cord off and cant return it ,Did i puchase the wrong charger??!

          • 1 wrote:
          • I too do not like the idea of an outlet in the engine bay.... GFCI or not. Your call on that.
          • That is probably a disclaimer of sorts, in that they do not know how our our average equipment is set up.

            If they suggest to connect to "Batteries", there is no misinterpretation.

            (see #4 )
          • Re-read the literature. This may be two (2) 6 amp outputs.... equalling a total 12 amp output combined. This is the case with many small chargers.

            Example:

            XYZ Charger..... 3 stage, smart charge technology.... 3 bank.... 30 Amp.

            This may actually mean 30 Amp total..... 10 Amp per bank output.
          • Do you mean connecting the charge leads "to" the MBBS #1 & #2 terminals?

            When using MBBS #1 & #2 terminals, this is schematically the same as though a direct battery connection. We are using the #1 & #2 terminals for a connecting point ONLY......... No charge current passes "through" the MBSS in this scenario.... (unless you were to have ALL/BOTH selected at the time, and if a small amount of equalizing occured)

            This connection avoids the small terminal corrosion and Rat's Nest issues that we often see at batteries with direct connections.
          • I doubt that any of these small chargers are set up for hard wiring. That's a call you'll need to make yourself.




          wingless wrote:


          The twin 6A output is very, very small. What is the battery configuration that will be used with this charger?
          Good point. Is 6 amps enough for this?

          Scraping B wrote:
          the battery config is going to 2 identical deep cycles less then 2 years old .

          1.... i can think of at least 2 guys that are going to stone me for not having a cranking battery but cut a guy some slak .
          I thought i may have undersized when i bought .

          3... My general use is out to the beach in morn back after sundown and on shorepower all night , so i was hoping it woould be enough.
          1....

          ...... :kidding

          2... Calculate your anticipated daily loads in amp hours. Make sure that the AH consumed will not deplete the battery more than 50%.

          Then size your battery bank and charger accordingly.

          .
          Rick E. Gresham, Oregon
          2850 Bounty Sedan Flybridge model
          Twin 280 HP 5.7's w/ Closed Cooling
          Volvo Penta DuoProp Drives
          Kohler 4 CZ Gen Set

          Comment


            #6
            A device with a power cord and plug is UL/Marine/whatever approved as is. Modifying it by cutting off plugs, changing terminals, etc not only may void the warranty, but also gives the manufacturer a way out of an injury/death lawsuit.

            An example: The building maintenance guy where I worked wanted a 50' extension cord with 4 outlets on it. I got a 4 outlet receptcle and metal box. I cut off the single socket and wired the cord into the 4 outlet box.

            The corporate safety guy had a cow about it. The cordset was only approved for use as shipped from the factory. It was no longer approved.

            I told the maintenace guy to take it home, and go back to unplugging his tools to use another one.
            Captharv 2001 2452
            "When the draft of your boat exceeds the depth of water, you are aground"

            Comment


              #7
              Harv, I agree that this would be true for the "who pooped my pants?" crowd!

              But when do we take responsibility into our own hands?

              I know.... I know, this would be an entirely different topic. :livid:

              If the male plug was removed, and if the polarity was correct, where's the issue?

              Can we purchase a GFCI breaker for our panels????

              Perhaps take a photo of the black and white (Hot/Neutral) and green AC ground conductors after these have been correctly connected to the AC panel power source.

              Keep the photo on file.

              But again, you'd have to be among the "who pooped my pants?" crowd, in order to even think about filing a claim against the manufacturer for your own stupidity and/or lack of common sense.

              I'm not going to suggest hard wiring it....., nor using the male plug as is.

              This is the OP's call.

              .
              Rick E. Gresham, Oregon
              2850 Bounty Sedan Flybridge model
              Twin 280 HP 5.7's w/ Closed Cooling
              Volvo Penta DuoProp Drives
              Kohler 4 CZ Gen Set

              Comment


                #8
                It might be easier installing an outlet.
                NO! There's no such thing as a NEMA 15a ignition-protected outlet. Its very design means there is always the risk of sparks and heat. That should never be in the engine room of a gas-powered boat.

                Cut the cord and do it safely, don't risk an outlet in there. Use heat-sealing crimp connectors to connect it to the existing power.

                Comment


                  #9
                  well there they are, Rick and Harv the exact 2 i was referring to! Thank you guys for responding , i respect both of your opinions sooo, I know i can make the connections sufficient as Carlos said , do you guys think im underpowered in the charger itself? will not put an outlet in the engine room so im feeling i have purchased a wrong product in application and size , as far as who pooped my pants im not so sure about that one. As i said im usually plugged in all night , do you guys think this 12 a charger is enough ? im not worried about the 130 buks i paID , I would be happy w a couple seasons. I had planned on making a nice drip guard shield and everything. so what can i expect from this split 12 charger.Keep in mind im hoping to uprade to a 3055 305 in the next 2 years , hoever i would like to pass on a sound vessel.

                  Comment


                    #10
                    oh, and thanks Rick for explaining the switch connection .

                    Comment


                      #11
                      I think you are fine with that charger provided it has the capacity to keep your batteries charged, you can hard wire it to your electrical panel, preferably with it's own breaker, you can make the splice in a sealed box in the engine room, be sure the splice has a heave duty crimp, not a std, 12 volt butt connector. I personally would run new wire from the charger to the 120 volt panel if at all possible, 14 ga will work for your application, use 3 strand marine cable, not hardware store cable.
                      Pat says: DO-IT-RIGHT THE FIRST TIME!

                      Bayliner 3870 "ALASKA33)
                      Twin 350 GM power
                      Located in Seward, AK
                      Retired marine surveyor

                      Comment


                        #12
                        i believe i can use the existing hardwire that is powering my existing 10amp. I havent disected the new charger but if i can , yes, i agree to wire it straight in with no connectors. I dont want to be loosing voltage into my dock im sure theres too much of that going on already. The new charger is a 12 , 6 & 6 _2 bank the old was a 10 amp 5&5 2 bank. so this is actuallyb an upgrade . Im going for it.

                        Comment


                          #13
                          I was faced with the same situation a couple of years ago. Original equip. charger failed. I bought the same model of charger to replace. During instalation I found that new charger was designed for plugging in. Rechecked the catalogue from my supplier and found they offered the charger both ways: hard wire or plug in. I had ordered the wrong model.

                          I cut the plug off, soldered connections, shrink wrapped, and taped to secure. (Inside a junction box). Hasn't given any trouble.

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Scraping B wrote:
                            The new charger is a 12 , 6 & 6 _2 bank the old was a 10 amp 5&5 2 bank. so this is actually an upgrade . Im going for it.
                            Yes, it is an upgrade from what you had. However, that may not necessarily mean that the old 10 amp 5/5 - 2 bank was any where near enough from the get-go!

                            IMO, you still need to calculate your anticipated daily loads in AH, and size the HLBB and Charger accordingly.... unless you are comfortable with the 6/6 2 bank.

                            Just say'n!

                            .
                            Rick E. Gresham, Oregon
                            2850 Bounty Sedan Flybridge model
                            Twin 280 HP 5.7's w/ Closed Cooling
                            Volvo Penta DuoProp Drives
                            Kohler 4 CZ Gen Set

                            Comment


                              #15
                              in short, if you use 100Ah from your batteries and charge them with optimistic constant 6A (they usually go lower towards the end) for 10h you theoretically have recharged 60Ah. Unfortunately that's not true as some of the energy goes wasted. My guess is that for the above you only got 50Ah and the rest goes into heat.

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