Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

I Have A Leak In My Mid-Berth Wall: HELP???-gctid380072

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

    I Have A Leak In My Mid-Berth Wall: HELP???-gctid380072

    Hi Guys,I have enclosed some pics of the area. I am trying to figure out where the leak is coming from. You can see the faint gray line running down the wall, that is the water running down the wall. It is a slight dribble and it only happens when it pours out. It lands on the shelf and soaks all the towels on the shelf. I took down the overhead compartment cover hatch, but the access to where the leak is, is behind a former at the end of where the access hatch ends. If I could get to about 10 inches on the other side of this former that is where I think the leak is coming in thru. But where the leak actually is coming from to get to this point, I still don't know. In the pics you see a long white vinyl covered piece about 3 inches wide that runs the length of the side of the boat. Anyone know a way to remove this molding? I am thinking if I could remove this I could maybe get to the point where the water is coming in. Very frustrating. Any suggestions , Please...

    [img]/media/kunena/attachments/vb/683557=27515-IMG00131-20120509-1941.jpg[/img]

    [img]/media/kunena/attachments/vb/683557=27516-IMG00136-20120509-1943.jpg[/img]

    [img]/media/kunena/attachments/vb/683557=27517-IMG00137-20120509-1944.jpg[/img]

    #2
    I would check you bow rails. It may be leaking around the scews.

    Comment


      #3
      That or the rub rail--those are infamous for leaks.

      Comment


        #4
        If you can get the padded panel off, the one that is 4" or so wide and how ever long you will find the leak is from the rub rail fasteners. I had the same type of leak from behind the same type of panel on my 2859. When I got the panel off I found they had used screws every so often to hold the rub rail on, the rest was heavy pop rivets. There was 2 screws that was loose, heads were on the outside, checked the rub rail on the outside and it was tight against the hull, went back in, put vise grips on the screw end and screwed in as tight as I could, side cutters to cut off screw ends and then 5200 over them to seal them off. Put padded panel back on with new screws. Simple once you get the padded panel off and no more leak. The way I found where the padded panel was fastened down was to get a small crows foot under the edge and work it around to find the fastener location. You may have to just pry it off and then use new screws with grommets that will show , but will look good. Do not use too long of screws and go through the hull!!! Good luck
        1999 2859 Volvo D4 260 DPH:arr

        Comment


          #5
          Optimus wrote:
          That or the rub rail--those are infamous for leaks.
          we had one in the same area and the rub rail had a dink in it, it leaked into the master berth and soaked everything, right down to the carpet on the floor.. sent the capt around the boat in the zodiac to fix and seal the leak.. been dry since

          Comment


            #6
            Thanks Guys for all the fast replies. That was like 5 replies in less then an hour. Preeeeeeettttttyyyyyy CCCCoooooollllll............

            Thanks Again for the Very FAST Response at least now I can go poke around and see what I can find. That darn white molding is what I think is the answer but at the same time going to be the most pain in the butt remove.

            Thanks

            ElectricEddie...:worth

            Comment


              #7
              Two years ago I pulled my rub rail out of its aluminum track. I then tightened all the screws that hold your top and bottom together. I then used 732 Dow Corning silicone because its flexible and can be removed if you do have to get in there again. I siliconed all inside the aluminum rub rail track over the screws holding the boat together and then refitted the rub rail back into the aluminum track, viola no leaks! The silicone sealed it and held the rub rail in place properly after it was reinstalled.

              Good luck.

              Comment


                #8
                Let us know what you find. It might be useful for others also.
                1999 2859 Volvo D4 260 DPH:arr

                Comment


                  #9
                  This is a timely thread for me as well, so I'm interested to see what you find. When i was waxing this year, i found some loose caulking around parts of my rubrail - obviously it has got to go. No leaks yets, but likely by chance, not design that's for sure.

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Hi All,

                    I did not have the cam with me this time to show you, next time I will have pics. I was able to remove the white vinyl covered molding you see in the picture. Boy what a stupid way of mounting it. They attached it to the wall on the inside where you see it in the picture with 3 screws from the outside. My guess is from the outside they attached the molding with 3 screws thru the rub rail channel to mount the molding on the inside. So it sounds like one guy was inside holding the molding and another was outside screwing the screws thru the rub rail track into the molding. Then they inserted the rub rail.

                    Now I looked at the rub rail and it is in there really tight. I am not sure how or if I am going to even attempt to try and remove it, it looks like a very big job. The rubber portion of the rub rail on my boat is so tight in the track, that I know that if I remove it I will never get it back in as good as it is now, so I hesitate to go down that road. The molding was held on with 3 screws which was easily popped with a gasket scraper pried from underneath the molding.

                    I can see that the wetness was coming from all 3 of these screws. In fact one area of the molding where a screw was attached at the far end of the molding towards the back of the mid-berth, the molding itself was very wet around the hole and spread out approx. 6-7 inches in both directions.

                    What I am thinking is and let me know what you guys think and if you think this will work or not. I am thinking of from the inside is to coat the entire inside area with silicone. Over all of the screws and the rivets covering them and the seam of the hull where the top and bottom meet approx. 3 inches wide of silicone and pretty thick. I will use this to stop the leak and to also re-mount the molding back on. Because there's is no way else to mount the molding back on other then the screws from outside which requires the removal of the rub rail or I could put 3 screws from inside with some finishing washers on them but then I am screwing the screws into the unknown and who knows where they could come out, which is a little scary as well.

                    What do you guys think?

                    Thanks

                    Ed :coo-

                    Comment


                      #11
                      On my 2855 I had water in the same area. I was able to trace it back to where the arch meets the hull. You will note there is caulking at that juncture and that was where the water was getting in. Once I recaulked the arch/hull joint - no more water in the aft berth. Maybe worth a look at yours.

                      Comment


                        #12
                        The bigger picture here, as you can probably see by now, is that there are likely going to be several places that can and are leaking. Thus, while it might be the 3 rub rail screws leaking right now, there are probably other places leaking too (particularly if this boat is new to you). Long term, it would be a good idea to check as much as you possibly can, anywhere and everywhere that a hole was drilled through the hull. Railing mounts, cleats, lights, horns, wipers, antennas, anything. My humble .02 cents are that Bayliner wasn't the greatest at sealing things up good and tight. But with a little bit of work, you can have piece of mind your boat will be nice and dry.

                        P.S. to get the rub rail out, people often use a heat gun to soften it up (both for removal and installation). Otherwise, as you've found, it's very hard to work with, literally.

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Hi Guys,

                          I noticed as I was cleaning and waxing the hull. The port side railing where it ends and meets the hull by the side windows, I found it cracked across the top in 2 directions and lifting slightly. I am wondering if some water is coming in from there as well. I am replacing that railing section and will silicone it as well. Speaking of silicone what silicone would you guys recommend for silicon use inside the mid-berth area where the molding area is? Bear in mind some of them smell and with Memorial day coming up we have plans to go away for the week and my daughter sleeps in the mid-berth and I don't want it to be to stinky in there for here to breath especially since she has a little asthma.

                          Thanks

                          Ed

                          Comment


                            #15
                            Hi Guys,

                            I could see that there were definitely 3 out of 4 screws that were leaking water from around the screws that held on the mid-berth molding. Although it was a pain in the neck, I removed the rub rail from the track; it had to be done in order to do the job correctly. I planned to re-install the molding using #14 x 1-1/4" flat head Stainless Steel Sheet metal screws. I had to step up the size because they original screws would not grab the wood any more. I cleaned up and remove the old dried silicone in the area in the track I was working on.

                            The rub rail on my boat was held together with bolts and nylon inserted lock nuts. So I removed all of them in the 5 -6 foot area and injected silicone into the holes and re-inserted the bolts and nuts and tightened them up good. Then I proceeded to inject silicone into the 4 holes that were used to mount the molding from the outside. I had a helper hold the molding in place on the inside while I installed the 4 new #14 size screws from outside. When I was all done with the screws I ran a bead of silicone down the middle of the track and used a piece of cardboard equal to the width of the track to smear down flat and cover everything evenly. I used 3M 4000UV Silicone Polyether Adhesive Sealant for all silicone work.

                            Then I re-installed the rub rail. I found it easy to use a heat gun to heat up a 1 foot section at a time as I popped it in starting at the bottom of the track first then the top working it back towards the end of the track at the back of the boat. One issue I ran into was that when I was approx. 3 feet from the end I could see that the rub rail was about 2 -3 inches shorter then the track length. I had to warm up the rubber rub rail 2-3 feet from the end and start to stretch it by really pulling on it. There was a few seconds there where I thought I was going to snap it, but it worked out OK. The heat softened it up and allowed it to be more manageable and slide in the track. You have to play it by ear as you go and as you work it in towards the end that it all aligns up evenly. I managed to get it all aligned up perfectly and then I installed the screw at the end in the rubber rub rail. The last thing was to just wipe down the rail with an alcohol soaked rag to get any remaining silicone off that may have slightly squeezed out of the rub rail / track edge.

                            Well It's all complete and I will know for sure the next big rain storm we get.

                            Thanks again for everyone's input and help.

                            Eddie

                            Comment

                            Working...
                            X