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05 185 3.0 carb?-gctid378514

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    05 185 3.0 carb?-gctid378514

    Bought it ran great, brought home set for a month put it in the water drove wife and kids aroind for 2 hrs flawlessly. This week put in water fired up idled out, running fine give it throttle and stutters after jacking with throttle it dies stsrts rite back up with a rough idle, give it sum more throttle get er running strong planed out and with a stock 21 pitch i can do 35mph. Turned around headed back to dock when i go to lower spedd to slowly idle back to dock it dies.............. I come home pull fuel line, filter is dirty ( looks like sand) blow it clean with b12 check for fuel spray, its there 100%.. split carb in two pull jets, clean, etc.... put back on fires up no rough idle excepts throttle all seems well... Take her to ghe river launch fires up w a 650rpm put in reverse dies, fires rite back up, goes forward soundd gd. Plains out running 35 mph fast as shed get, do my turn around head back throttle down stays idleing just fine parked for 30 minutes swam around fired rite up planed her out go to a no wake area n she dies no idle.. time for rebuild or what... im on a phone typing this so my appoligies for the rambling..

    #2
    What i would do is start at the fuel tank and work to the carb..... Pull the pickup tube in the tank, check the anti-syphin valve, and the pickup tube is not clogged.

    I would crank the bow up if on the trailer and suck all the junk and gunk off the bottom of the tank. I do it with a cheap auto fuel pump and 5 feet of hose on both ends of the pump into a soda bottle. I pretty much need to pump out about a half bottle of junk and gunk till the fuel runs clear and shut off the pump. Make sure to disconnect the battery first do it safely.

    Check the vent, make sure it's clear.

    Close up the tank move on the the fuel water sep if you have one change out the element.

    Next fuel pump if it's a bell type there is a filter element in there clean it out.

    Next the fitting that enters the carb. Clean that element.

    And rebuild the carb with a new accel. pump and don't forget the ball bearing.

    Want a step by step guide just ask i'll look it up i posted it before and i can find it.

    Now you have a clean system. Run the boat and get back to us.
    Be good, be happy, for tomorrow is promised to no man !

    1994 2452, 5.0l, Alpha gen. 2 drive. Sold ! Sold ! Sold !

    '86 / 19' Citation cuddy, Merc. 3.0L / 140 hp 86' , stringer drive. Sold ! Sold ! Sold !

    Manalapan N.J

    Comment


      #3
      There has been alot of posts concerning carbs lately.... So i will post this old one i put up on a different site. What i want to do is have all 3 posts in one thread and i can copy or paste it when another question such as this arises.

      Welcome aboard !

      Below is a post i made to a different site copied and pasted here.

      Get yourself down to a auto parts store, get a can of berrymans carb soak comes with a screen in the can, like a deep fryer.

      Also get a can of compressed carb cleaner.And a carb rebuild kit.

      With a clean area on a table or bench i place a old cookie sheet with sides.

      Break down the carb and remove all the rubber.

      Remove the jets they should just screw out.

      Everything goes into the berrymans, let soak for a few hours.

      Remove the parts from the berrymans, start with the lower carb housing and blow it dry with compressed air, it clean?

      Piece by piece build it, make sure every passage is clean blow it dry and use compressed can carb clear blow it dry again.

      Jets clean, Float, floating no gas in it ?

      Push the float under water and if you see bubbles it's time to replace it.

      Ok when you install the pin in the forks that hold the float are they pressing on the float tounge and not allowing the float to move freely ?

      So if you did your job correctly the carb should operate freely, and when you install the adjustment screws be gentle.

      Do not bend the tips. All the way in with them gently and out 2 turns to start.

      Final adjustment on the water.

      Have someone else drive about 2000 rpm maybe a little more and you do the final adjustment.

      If you take your time and there are no distractions, you should be ok.

      Good luck !
      Be good, be happy, for tomorrow is promised to no man !

      1994 2452, 5.0l, Alpha gen. 2 drive. Sold ! Sold ! Sold !

      '86 / 19' Citation cuddy, Merc. 3.0L / 140 hp 86' , stringer drive. Sold ! Sold ! Sold !

      Manalapan N.J

      Comment


        #4
        Another post from another site i put up years ago.

        I pumped all the fuel out of my onboard fuel tank when i got it.

        You can do one of 2 things, pump the water out of the bottom, or all the fuel out and here is how.

        If you just wish to pump just the water out of the bottom of the fuel, you will need to purchase a cheap electric fuel pump from any auto store dc powered.

        You will also need about 15 foot of cheap fuel hose from the auto store and clamps to fit the fuel pump. I use clear hose so you will see the fuel as it is being pumped out of the tank.

        Install the hose on the fuel pump both ends and cut about five feet on the sucking side of the pump just look for the arrow on the pump.

        Remove the fuel pickup tube it's the one where the fuel hose hooks to the tank a 90 degree angel fitting, it's a anti-siphon valve. Unscrew it.

        Crank the bow of the boat all the way up, and stick the hose connected to the electric fuel pump 5 feet into the bottom and back of the tank.

        Into a clear container pump the water out till you see clean fresh fuel and stop the pump.

        Or into a large container pump all the fuel out.

        Now check the valve by blowing thru it, check the screen thats its clear.

        Install the valve and pickup tube your done.

        Question do you have a fuel water separator on the boat, good to have.

        Good luck !

        Thank you-all if you read thru all 3 posts now i will save this and put up the whole thread when a question arises such as this.
        Be good, be happy, for tomorrow is promised to no man !

        1994 2452, 5.0l, Alpha gen. 2 drive. Sold ! Sold ! Sold !

        '86 / 19' Citation cuddy, Merc. 3.0L / 140 hp 86' , stringer drive. Sold ! Sold ! Sold !

        Manalapan N.J

        Comment


          #5
          Thanx chief alan im going out now to work on it, cant get carb kit until monday.. ill post nack in a few days what happens

          Comment


            #6
            Checked anti siphon its good, cone filter on bottom of fuel pump appears good, changed cap,wires, plugs. Rechecked filter in carb its still clean. Im assuming since i only pulled the top half of carb apart along with the jets that i need to go ahead with the rebuild. I should have this done ons day this week. Ill post my results

            Comment


              #7
              Posting from phone sorry for mistakes. I rebuilt carb, found a hard broken black piece of plastic inside the metioring rod. Not sure where it came from or even how. But a full build and she's. Back up to par thanx for the help

              Comment


                #8
                Before rebuilding your carb, have you done a good all rounded tune up on that engine? New plugs, wires,rotor, and cap?? But don't rule out carb tho!

                Comment


                  #9
                  Disclaimer and caution: Be very careful when handling, siphoning, pumping etc., gasoline from a fuel tank.

                  I completely understand and agree with pulling the water off from underneath the gasoline if E-10 or other blending chemicals have not been added.

                  If the gasoline and water are still separated, raise the bow, let her settle for a while.

                  Then pull some fuel out.

                  If you allow time for this to settle out, the water can be pulled off from below the gasoline.

                  And like Chief says, when the flow becomes gasoline, you have very likely removed most of the water.

                  However, rather than using an electric fuel pump for this, use something like the Tempo Oil Boy extractor.

                  No electricity to worry about... much safer!

                  If you do not own one, you should, as there are multiple uses for this in addition to oil changes.



                  But please do not use a cheap automotive electric fuel pump for this. :thumb

                  Instead, remove the anti-siphon valve, thread in a standard barbed fitting, and connect your hose.

                  If you can use a long hose and pull from outside of the boat, create a siphon using the Oil Boy, and dump the fuel into a container.

                  Or you can do this from inside the boat using the Oil Boy as both suction and container.

                  ************************************

                  I would not use water to test a fuel bowl float.

                  The chemistry between H2O and Gasoline is considerably different, of which makes buoyancy considerably different if you are trying to test for a float's buoyancy.

                  Gasoline will find it's way into areas where water may not be able to, if you are trying to test a float for a leak.

                  The only "external" adjustment to this carburetor will be the low speed circuits.

                  At 2k rpm, and while under load, the system is well out of the low speed metering circuits and is well into the high speed circuits.

                  These low speed air adjustments are made at low speed only for low speed operation only.

                  If high speed fuel metering adjustments are required, you must get into the carburetor.

                  .
                  Rick E. Gresham, Oregon
                  2850 Bounty Sedan Flybridge model
                  Twin 280 HP 5.7's w/ Closed Cooling
                  Volvo Penta DuoProp Drives
                  Kohler 4 CZ Gen Set

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