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Considering alpha 1 to bravo 3 swap-gctid378147

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    Considering alpha 1 to bravo 3 swap-gctid378147

    Due to a swivel pin/transom/gimbal ring rust and corrosion fiasco, I need to replace the whole transom assembly. To replace my alpha assembly with the same it'll cost around $1800.

    I've always thought that a Bravo 3 would be the perfect drive for my 2452 to eliminate low speed wander, improve backing and docking manuverability, and improve the hole shot. This conversion is pretty simple once the engine is pulled, but the total cost of a complete Bravo 3 would be around $9,000 ($7,200 more than just replacing the Alpha transom assembly). Is this worth it? I'm concerned about the additional weight of the Bravo 3, at 200 lbs versus the 75 lb alpha. The leg is also much bigger, so more drag. Will I lose fuel efficiency and top end/cruse speed?

    #2
    Have you checked into a good used BIII or even a good used DP?
    Rick E. Gresham, Oregon
    2850 Bounty Sedan Flybridge model
    Twin 280 HP 5.7's w/ Closed Cooling
    Volvo Penta DuoProp Drives
    Kohler 4 CZ Gen Set

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      #3
      Its heavier but you would get increased performance. I highly doubt it will resolve your bow wonder though, its quiet the expensive upgrade if thats what your mainly looking at it for. Bow wonder can be resolved for a few hundered bucks with a super fin.

      Like rick said, look for a used bravo setup if this is what you want to do and dont want to pay the high tag of the drive. Also you could probably sell your alpha if its in good shape and get some of that money back. Eitehr way, swapping over to a bravo drive is going to cost you money, is it really worth it to you though? You wont get the money back when you sell the boat, keep that in mind.

      Lol rick, come on now we dont need a complete conversion to VP with new cables, controls, engine, etc. Lets stick with merc, we both know they are better anyway.

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        #4
        Bear in mind that the Alpha's pump is in the drive leg, while the Bravo's is belt driven on the engine. You'll lose a bit of top end, but gain mid-range performance and slow speed handling.

        Also; A1 prop = $200 +/-

        B3 propset= $1500 +/-

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          #5
          I hate to break it to you, but is is likely the new B3 is worth 70% of your total boat value. I don't see what the problem with Alpha, just replace it and keep the money for gas. Never had B3 so I don't know what I'm missing.

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            #6
            I'm starting to agree with you all... just stick with the Alpha. Heck, if I just go alpha I'll only be into it $1,800 vs. $9,000, meaning I'll save $7,200. It's like I'm MAKING money :greedy_dollars:

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              #7
              Have you contacted your insurance company? There may be coverage available, based on your policy language.....never hurts to touch base with them. AND- contrary to popular belief, your premiums don't get jacked to the sky after a claim.....

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                #8
                Pau Hana wrote:
                AND- contrary to popular belief, your premiums don't get jacked to the sky after a claim.....
                they dont get jacked, but they do go up.

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                  #9
                  Not always, Ryan- if the cause of loss is not directly attrituble to the insured, insuring companies have been known to not raise rates after a claim. Each claim is different, as is each insuring company's policy language...

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                    #10
                    You'll lose a bit of top end, but gain mid-range performance and slow speed handling.
                    Side by side, my 2455 with a B3 was 2 MPH faster than a 2455 with the same engine and an Alpha. Mine had more batteries, more people, and the same fuel/water load.

                    they dont get jacked, but they do go up.
                    I had one marine claim (totalled). When I bought a new boat, the cost went down with the new company I chose to insure that one. The only negative consequence I found was that Boat US wouldn't insure me at all until 3 years without a claim. Nobody else seemed to care.

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                      #11
                      Don't forget the cut out for the B3 is different so add the cost of filling your existing transom A1 cut out and making a new one.

                      What prop are you running? Grant it I have 2 drives, but a 4 blade made a world of difference in my boat.
                      Phil, Vicky, Ashleigh & Sydney
                      1998 3055 Ciera
                      (yes, a 1998)
                      Previous boat: 1993 3055
                      Dream boat: 70' Azimut or Astondoa 72
                      Sea Doo XP
                      Sea Doo GTI SE
                      Life is short. Boats are cool.
                      The family that plays together stays together.
                      Vice Commodore: Bellevue Yacht Club

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                        #12
                        itsabowtime2 wrote:
                        Don't forget the cut out for thr B3 is different so add the cost of filling your existing transom A1 cut out and making a new one.

                        What prop are you running? Grant it I have 2 drives, but a 4 bladr made a world of difference in my boat.
                        I'm pretty sure the cutout is exactly the same. The only difference is you need to drill two more holes for the B3.

                        I'm running a 4 blade, which I have no complaints. I just figured that since I have to replace the whole transom assembly... this would be the one and only time to consider upgrading. It doesn't sound like it's worth it...

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