Drain plug-gctid378051

[Guest]

While checking the drain plugs on my 1998 5.0 chevy I discovered that one of the plugs on the block was only screwed in about one thread.The threads in the block ars stripped. I will try to run a tap through it and clean up the threads and install a new plug but if this fails what are my options. Do any of the metal bonding compounds work? Could I bond a larger coupling over the hole and use a larger plug? Is the water system on a boat under pressurd like a car?

[2850Bounty]

seasam wrote:
While checking the drain plugs on my 1998 5.0 chevy I discovered that one of the plugs on the block was only screwed in about one thread.The threads in the block ars stripped. I will try to run a tap through it and clean up the threads and install a new plug but if this fails what are my options. Do any of the metal bonding compounds work? Could I bond a larger coupling over the hole and use a larger plug? Is the water system on a boat under pressurd like a car?

These threads will be 1/4" TP, so be sure to use the correct tap.

Pressure? Well, if this is a raw water cooled engine, then no..... not quite the same amount of pressure as if it were a closed cooling system.

It still needs to be very secure.

https://"http://www.baylinerownerscl...e clamp loose, and Wayne almost lost his boat.

A leak at the block drain may not dump quite as much water, but none-the-less, you'll want good threads and a good seal here.

May as well do the other side while at it.

Suggestion:

The cast iron threads are no doubt fragile now from so many years of in/out of the drain plugs.

If you would install a permanent petcock, the threads will not be disturbed in the future.

If you do, use Loctite to keep them in place.

Don't use this style.... you can't probe with this style.



The stopper comes completely out with this style, leaving a direct path for probing rust scale debris.



.

[Guest]

2850Bounty wrote:


Don't use this style.... you can't probe with this style.



.

I can confirm that this style is terrible. As Rick said, you can't probe. Furthermore, you can see how the "wings" are pressed on. Well, they can eventually come loose and wobble/bend/break. And if they are siezed in place "open" or "closed," you might not be able to just put a wrench on them and break them loose. You'll end up breaking loose the press-fit connection and the "wings" will just spin uselessly on the fitting. Ask me how I know.... I was trying to get these stupid things permanently OUT of a boat I had just bought (several years ago), and this simple task was becoming increasingly difficult.

[Guest]

On my 1998 5.0 Chevy one of the drain plug holes in the block is stripped. I will try to run a tap through it but if that doesn't work what other options do I have? My boat does not have a closed cooling system so how much pressure is there on this plug? Would one of the rubber expandable ones be ok?

Thank You

[Guest]

You can get about 7 lbs of pressure in a cooling system and up to 13 lbs when overheating situation, as most caps are relieved in the 11 - 13 lb range.

Try putting a Helicoil in it. Just measure the hole size, get a Helicoil for that size hole, drill and tap for that Helicoil (it will tell you on the package) and install new plug.

The rubber expansion plugs can hold a lot of pressure, so if you go that route, get the one that has the screw end, not the lever end style.

[2850Bounty]

Seasam, you have two active threads on the same topic.

Perhaps choose one and have the other deleted.

http://www.baylinerownersclub.org/forum/showthread.php?69968-Drain-plug

[Guest]

I don't intend to hijack here but...

rick, where can i get those petcocks you posted?

I just searched online and can only find the wing type and a few other types that don't look like the one you've posted... I agree with you and optimus, those wing drains are garbage...I end up just completely removing the thing because the "wing" breaks loose. I do put a small amount of grease on them prior to reinstalling. (hoping to make em easier to remove) I spent about 2 hours getting them out when I first purchased the boat.

Good luck to the OP with tapping the stripped hole.

Edit: Rick, I found this http://www.ebay.com/itm/1-4-NPT-Male...4880%26ps%3D54

[2850Bounty]

I think that you can get them through NAPA, or most good marine engine supply companies.

Some people remove the stopper completely... and they do get lost. So you may want an extra one.



Here's why the other style doesn't allow wire probing..... and the stopper goes in, not out.

[Guest]

Jeff Thanks for the reply. The 7 to 13 pounds of pressure you refer to is an automobile cooling system which is a closed system, I don't think an open system on a boat works like this as there is no cap to releave the pressure. Please correct me if I an wrong.

[2850Bounty]

seasam wrote:
Jeff Thanks for the reply. The 7 to 13 pounds of pressure you refer to is an automobile cooling system which is a closed system, I don't think an open system on a boat works like this as there is no cap to releave the pressure. Please correct me if I an wrong.

Just to clarify.... our marine closed systems are similar to an automotive radiator system regarding coolant pressures, the pressure relief caps, recovery systems, etc.

With your open system, you'll still have some mild pressure, but no where near what a closed system would have.

.

[Guest]

seasam wrote:
Jeff Thanks for the reply. The 7 to 13 pounds of pressure you refer to is an automobile cooling system which is a closed system, I don't think an open system on a boat works like this as there is no cap to releave the pressure. Please correct me if I an wrong.

Opps, your right on pressure. Mine is closed cooling so I forget some are open.

You are right, no pressure with open cooling.

[yachtman]

I hate to be a stick in the mud but if even a open system has a thermostat in it it is building some pressure in the block where he is having the problem at least until the thermostat opens up. although the entire system may not have much pressure in it perse.