Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Mercruiser 4.3LX Gen+ Water circulating pump-gctid377403

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

    Mercruiser 4.3LX Gen+ Water circulating pump-gctid377403

    Hi all,

    I've just been out spending some time with my 4.3LX Gen+ running on the flush muffs and checking thoroughly for any irregularities and/or leaks. First time I've ever really done this as I am now beginning to learn more about how everything works, thanks to BOC and the arrival of a Seloc manual etc

    Anyway, I've noticed a teeny trickle/leak coming from the water circulating pump and have traced the source to one of two tiny holes in the main body of the pump casing. These two tiny holes are located above and below the "shaft" and actually look like they are meant to be bleed/overflow holes or something. IS this the case and thus do I not need to worry about the leak? The pump housing looks like this one:

    http://www.amazon.com/MERCRUISER-WAT.../dp/B004AQXPJS

    The leak itself is literally one droplet every 5 or 6 seconds but the droplet is occasionally catching on the engine drive pulley directly below and getting "skit" onto other pulleys, particularly around the power steering pulley.

    Dave

    #2
    Those are weep holes; you have a pump that is beginning to fail. Recommendation would be to change it now, before Murphy's Law kicks in and it fails when yu're on the water.

    The good news is that if you're handy with a wrench, it's basically no harder than changing the pump in your car.

    Comment


      #3
      Thanks Pau,

      Thats exactly the info I was after.

      Sounds like a nice beginner project for me. I'm no mechanic, but I'm confident enough to learn

      Comment


        #4
        You're welcome- and welcome!

        While you're at it, you may want to check the thermostat and hoses. Is the boat closed cooling (heat exchanger) or raw water cooled?

        Also, please edit your profile to include your boat info (year, make, model, etc)- makes it easier to help ya!

        Comment


          #5
          Ditto Pete on this one.

          What you're seeing is a water leak at the ceramic seal just behind the bearing box.

          If the leak becomes worse, the BB will get wet and will begin to fail.

          If raw water cooled, you'll need the marine version circ pump.... if equipped with closed cooling, there is an automotive version that works just as well, and is at approximately one third the cost.

          ,
          Rick E. Gresham, Oregon
          2850 Bounty Sedan Flybridge model
          Twin 280 HP 5.7's w/ Closed Cooling
          Volvo Penta DuoProp Drives
          Kohler 4 CZ Gen Set

          Comment


            #6
            Pau Hana wrote:
            You're welcome- and welcome!

            While you're at it, you may want to check the thermostat and hoses. Is the boat closed cooling (heat exchanger) or raw water cooled?

            Also, please edit your profile to include your boat info (year, make, model, etc)- makes it easier to help ya!
            Thanks for welcome and it's raw water cooled. I've already checked hoses (all good) but will definitely check the thermostat when I'm in there.

            Boat info is all in my siggy

            Dave

            Comment

            Working...
            X