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**Guest** · 04-27-2012, 06:37 PM

I switched over last year on a bet to Collinite wax. I am very impressed with it compared to maguires flagship wax. The Collinite will last all season and can be buffed to a high shine. You will still need to use a compound or collinite fiberglass cleaner first to clean the surface.....

**Guest** · 04-27-2012, 06:57 PM

Electriceddie wrote:
Hi Guys,

Note: They way you see the boat is the way it was just as it was after I removed the shrink-wrap from the winter.

Well it's that time again this year to wash, clean and wax the boat and get it ready for the water. Last year my routine was to use wash the boat with a good boat soap, I used Westmarine Pure Oceans Boat Soap. Then I applied 3M Finesse-It II with a wheel. After that I applied by hand Flagship Premium Marine Paste Wax and removed by wheel. The shine was amazing that was created by the results of the 3M Finesse-It II & the Flagship Premium Marine Paste Wax; however it was very pains taking and very time consuming to get there. The boat has a decent shine on it still (pics included). I am looking for something that will help me remove the black streaks from the water / rain on the hull. I am looking for a little easier way this year to polish and wax the hull. I am thinking 3M Black Streak Remover for the Black streaks. I need an easy to use replacement for the 3M Finesse-It II just because I don't think I need something as strong as 3M Finesse-It II. Then I was thinking A Liquid wax like MEGUIARS Liquid - Flagship Premium Marine Wax or one of the Collinite Fiberglass Boat Wax's.

Thanks a Bunch Guys

Ed

I would still stick with the Finesse,it will be alot quicker this year with great results. I've used it for 20 years.I will be doing my new to me 2855 shortly with it and then Rejex.

**Guest** · 04-30-2012, 10:01 AM

Hi Guys,

After hearing so many good things about it I decided to give the Collinite a try. I bought 2 pints of the Collinite 925 Wax and a pint of the Collinite 920 cleaner. So I cleaned the boat with a good soap and rinsed off and dried with a shamie. I applied the cleaner with a wheel to clean some black streaks from rain run-off which it did quite nicely, however I had an issue with it drying and having an awful hard time getting it off. I applied with the wheel at a fairly slow setting. I could not get it off with the wheel. I tried using a spray bottle of water to help remove it, no good. I scrubbed by hand I was able to get some off but it was blotchy all over the hull in the area I did. Then I thought and I tried re-applying the cleaner to the entire area and then immediately wiped it off and then I went over it with a clean rag (several) and then eventually I got it all off. It cleaned the hull nicely but what a job. It seemed like the issue was the wheel most likely overheated the cleaner and baked it on. Please comments here?

Now the WAX..........I thought I was getting an easy job when I decided to go with liquid, so I thought. It went on nice and easy by hand. I let it dry to a haze approx. 10 mins then I went to the wheel at a slow speed and a finishing schlegal pad. It took it all off but the swirl marks where everywhere. This I was not expecting at all. OK guys why am I getting swirl marks. I was able to get rid of them by buffing if out by hand. BUT HERE WE GO AGAIN; I'M GOING IT BY HAND AND IM KILLING MYSELF!!!. Need some advice here. Last year I used the Meguairs paste was on by hand, off by wheel, and final once over by hand, but not like what I went thru to het this Collinite wax off yesterday. Any advice? Any of you guys that have use Collinite want to share your secrets?

Thanks

Ed

**joeydiver** · 04-30-2012, 12:59 PM

Ed,

From Collinites website for their No. 925 liquid boat wax:

Do NOT apply wax to entire boat or vehicle, or sections larger than recommended before

removing, as prolonged drying or cure times may lead to wax hardening on surface; causing

streaking or difficulty for some users to remove properly. User assumes risk if recommended cure

times are exceeded.

Page not found - Collinite

http://www.collinite.com/assets/Uploads/Product-Tech-Sheets-PDF/TTech925pdf.pdf

They also say its safe to use a buffer, if experienced (disclaimer!), but I get the feeling they recommend their products be applied by hand. Did you try going over the streaks with the Collinite cleaner again (by hand - sorry)?

I've always had good luck with Collinite, but I've always did it by hand, and removed the cleaner and wax within a minute after applying...

Joey

**Guest** · 04-30-2012, 04:46 PM

Hi Joe,

Thanks for the reply,

Its funny but I was on that exact same Collinite website pages today looking up Collinite to find out some tech info. like this as well. I am getting the feeling that the intent is to apply and remove by hand. I would only do small sections at a time never the whole side of the boat or the whole boat for that matter. However the guy at the Marine store (Who I won't Name) since they are a large store on the Island here. They said it could be wheeled without any issues.

But what about the time element? I see that you say you have always done it by hand. How long do you leave the wax on before removing it? They say let it dry to a haze. I did but I still had trouble, a haze could mean anywhere from 3-4 mins. to 30-45 mins. to an hour or more. I did read all of the warnings about leaving it on to long but there was no actual time length given. I also had the issues with swirl marks.

1. What is your time frame from applying to a 2x3 foot section and letting it dry to the point of wiping it off?

2. What do you think caused the swirl marks? Is there a way or procedure since you have used Collinite to apply it and take it off with a wheel?

I am thinking that I need to apply it by hand and let it dry 2-3 mins. then take it off by wheel. I think I left it to dry way to long. Even 10 -12 mins. maybe way to long for it. Maybe this is what caused the swirl marks. The next chance I can get I will try a small test spot and see if that works without getting any swirl marks by reducing the drying time.

Any suggestions or application procedures would definitely be welcomed............

Thanks in advanced

Ed

**Guest** · 04-30-2012, 05:13 PM

I see you are in L.I, N.Y. Temperature is also a factor. If applied too cool it is a bear to get off. I have used Collinate products for about 15 years and agree with previous posters that small areas and do not wait too long. I apply by hand and buff off with a wheel but quickly then finish by hand wiping. This is for the wax. Cleaners I usually apply by hand and wipe off by hand, again small areas. I found that wheeling the cleaners in my hands did not work well, the wheel clogged quickly. I use foam pads not rag wheels. If you want to really get into it try compounding for the cleaning, then apply Collonite's 845 insulatimg wax. It will leave a brilliant finish but your arms will fall off if the boat is large. I have a 38' MY so I know. I would not apply the 845 when it is cool or real warm. Both temperatures make this hard to get off. 70's has worked best for me.

Richard in Wisconsin

**joeydiver** · 05-01-2012, 11:49 AM

For both the cleaner and liquid wax, no more than a minute or two.

I once did a big section, maybe 5'x5' with the paste wax, good god, I thought it had turned into cement. Dont get me wrong, when I did a smaller area, it worked great. They say:

Do NOT apply wax to entire boat or vehicle, or sections larger than recommended before removing, as prolonged drying or cure times may lead to wax hardening on surface; causing

streaking or difficulty for some users to remove properly. User assumes risk if recommended cure

times are exceeded.

My dad has used the liquid exclusively for years on his 20', 1976 Mako and I'll be damned, the hull still has a gloss to it....

Joey

**Guest** · 05-01-2012, 02:35 PM

Hi Joe,

What do you think caused the swirl marks? Is there a way or procedure to take it off with a wheel without getting swirl marks?

Ed

**Guest** · 05-01-2012, 06:33 PM

For the collinite wax to come off easily with a buffer you need to have a very clean hull. Unfortunately the collinite fiberglass cleaner doesn't do a good job cleaning a dirty hull. I always buff the hull with presta white ribbon compound and a white wool pad, this will really clean the surface and make it smooth. Then the collinite wax is is easily removed with a buffer and yellow pad. I waxed my entire boat by hand before I grabbed the buffer, getting the hull clean and smooth is the key to making the wax come off easily...

The paste wax is even more sensitive to a very clean surface and needs a really clean boat to start with......

**Guest** · 05-01-2012, 07:03 PM

(due to some physical issues this year) I paid to have this done.

The clean, wax and polish job cost $378.00 but was well worth it when I consider the actual pain you two have had this spring. The adventures you and Sara have had getting your boats ready make me ache.

God love you both for your perseverance

**Guest** · 05-01-2012, 08:25 PM

Jarhead wrote:
(due to some physical issues this year) I paid to have this done.

The clean, wax and polish job cost $378.00 but was well worth it when I consider the actual pain you two have had this spring. The adventures you and Sara have had getting your boats ready make me ache.

God love you both for your perseverance

That is one good price for a complete boat job !!

**Guest** · 05-02-2012, 04:38 AM

Guys,

My problem was that I was getting some swirl marks. I was able to get the wax all off eventually but there was some swirl marks left behind. I re-waxed again and instead of letting it dry 10-12 mins then trying to remove with the machine I let it sit for about 3-4 mins just as a haze started to appear I then buffed it out. Then it was OK no more swirl marks. I think that letting it dry to long caused me to use the buffer on the hull to long trying to get it off which in turn caused the swirl marks. Does this sound like a possibility of what I may have done guys?

Buy the way I have gotten the routine down with the Collinite Cleaner.

1. Apply Collinite Cleaner to a small 2x2 area and scrub.

2. Immediately wipe off with a clean cloth turning it once ( I used a micro fiber cloth, although I have really become partial to the good old terrycloth rags).

3. Go over lightly the entire area with a light wool type pad on a slow speed on the machine.

4. Complete with a quick final wipe down with a Terrycloth rag by hand (Optional) I like the getting up close with the rag and feeling it with my hand as I wipe for smoothness as I wipe to check it over. It's also an ego booster because by this step it looks great. I had a neighbor look at it and thought I was waxing it.

Thanks

Ed

**joeydiver** · 05-02-2012, 07:40 AM

Electriceddie wrote:
Hi Joe,

What do you think caused the swirl marks? Is there a way or procedure to take it off with a wheel without getting swirl marks?

Ed

I dont have any experience with that, but I would think that the Collinite cleaner by hand, or the Finesse It with a wheel would take it off...

Joey

**nottingham88** · 05-02-2012, 10:26 AM

Electriceddie wrote:
Guys,

My problem was that I was getting some swirl marks. I was able to get the wax all off eventually but there was some swirl marks left behind. I re-waxed again and instead of letting it dry 10-12 mins then trying to remove with the machine I let it sit for about 3-4 mins just as a haze started to appear I then buffed it out. Then it was OK no more swirl marks. I think that letting it dry to long caused me to use the buffer on the hull to long trying to get it off which in turn caused the swirl marks. Does this sound like a possibility of what I may have done guys?

Buy the way I have gotten the routine down with the Collinite Cleaner.

1. Apply Collinite Cleaner to a small 2x2 area and scrub.

2. Immediately wipe off with a clean cloth turning it once ( I used a micro fiber cloth, although I have really become partial to the good old terrycloth rags).

3. Go over lightly the entire area with a light wool type pad on a slow speed on the machine.

4. Complete with a quick final wipe down with a Terrycloth rag by hand (Optional) I like the getting up close with the rag and feeling it with my hand as I wipe for smoothness as I wipe to check it over. It's also an ego booster because by this step it looks great. I had a neighbor look at it and thought I was waxing it.

Thanks

Ed

I've been using the Collinite products for several seasons now and have experienced the streaks and swirls you refer to. I usually found it was heat related- ie weather. The hotter it is the smaller the area you can do at a time to avoid this minor issue.

I was always able to remove problematic areas with more of the same product, whether that be the paste Fleetwax or the #925 liquid WAX. The Collinite Fleetwax seems the most susceptible to turning rock hard but then it lasts that well too. With 885 start removing once you have applied a small area and then let a haze appear before the final buff (by hand, thats all you need)

The #920 cleaner will easily remove black streaks and winters left over grunge. The cleaner works best if you wet the area with product and let it sit a minute or 2 before working it. I use 3 times as much cleaner as wax and get great results. Like anything else the prep, cleaning, is the important part to get great results. I clean until no more grunge comes off on cloth.

The #925 wax is great to work with if it's not baking hot out. I tend to put a second coat on once all the tedious cleaning work is done. That method has lasted more than one season and still looks pretty good, especially for a saltwater boat

I prefer the 925 wax to the Fleetwax paste. It shines better for longer.

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