Trying to add a 5Hp kicker motor next to a 125 Force on a 1988 Bass Trophy?-gctid375167

[Guest]

On the 1988 Bass Trophy Bayliner or a similar hull or transom, has anyone of you been successful in adding a small (Decided Not 5HP but now Minimum 9.9HP - 35hp) kicker motor on the starboard side next to the 125 Force allowing the kicker to be controlled by the same steering while the 125 motor is up?

Is it possible to have such a small 9.9 HP motor controlled for speed, forward and backwards from 2nd set of controls at the drivers controls?

Basically I am trying to find a kit that would set me up to have a small kicker motor guide me through shallow waters around obstacles in tight spots but controlled from my console and not from the tiller position. Appreciate a lesson here, thanks.

DidleySquat

[Guest]

That 125 motor will trim right up and out of the water so shallow water shouldn't be an issue. The front electric trolling motor should be very useful in tight spots. While fishing I only use my big motor for getting to the spot, then shut it down, trim it up, and drop the electric trolling motor for fishing. Do you use this boat as a bass boat? Even when I used the boat to yank my kid around the lake I never had the need for a kicker.

You might be able to use a steer-eze between the main motor and the kicker to control steering but my guess would be it's too close between the two. Where would you install a 2nd set of controls?

[Guest]

Hi Wayne

Where I bring my boat out through a very narrow inlet there are rocks on either sides of the entrance with a sand bar at the entrance with 18 " of water or less. My boat barely squeezes through and I get nervous because with the motor trimmed up sometime I lose steering control. Maneuverability is really bad when coming back into the inlet because when the lake is choppy and with cross winds I see the water bounce my boat up and down making the water level going from a couple of inches to couple of feet with each wave coming into the entrance but once I am in, the water is flat where we park our boat. Now I am figuring I need at least between a 9.9hp to a light weight 35hp kicker motor that will push the boat where I want to steer it too. Lakes in my area often have shallow water with dead heads and rocks just below the water surface, so the thought is in those dangerous spots the kicker is a better save and can be used for trolling too. I am exploring older motors with controls and swapping a trim into a motor If I can find one. For the controls I will mount the shifter on the end of a narrow arm beside the left side of the driver seat that can swing up between the driver seat and middle seat. This arm would be covered in seat material and have an elbow mid-length allowing the arm to swing up with the control shift attached when not being used so I can laterally get into the seat. The hardest part of this project just means I have to lose 25 pounds to allow my butt fit between two control shifts.

My boat I purchased used with the original force 24 trolling motor on the bow. I could spend money and get the strongest one with remote controls to pull the boat through. Though the kicker provides a secondary motor if the 125 hp dies on the water. It amazes me how the ones with large boats can maneuver in tight shallow spots, it freaks me out especially at night.

Thanks.

[Guest]

I did replace my original trolling motor with just what you're talking about and although it cost an entire boat buck, $1k, I couldn't be happier with it.

I would think a 35hp would be too heavy and bulky to sit next to the 125hp possibly causing a serious right listing and could affect how the boats chine's dig in while doing higher speed right turns possibly causing the boat to dig in and flip.

A 9.9 might do better and is certainly enough to get that boat home, but I still think there isn't enough room to mount it. Also keep in mind you still have to get the prop in the water as low as you would put the main motors prop in the water, so I'm not sure what you would really gain except to have a largely unneeded spare.

IMO a new remote controlled bow mounted trolling motor will do exactly what you want and take you a long way on battery power without compromising safety, and best of all no need to lose 25 lbs. :arr

[Guest]

Thanks Wayne

I have been searching wide and far for a complete set up with 9.9 hp complete with controls and a trim plate with no luck. A brand new 9.9hp motor with this set up is $4-$5k.

I believe you are right about having a strong trolling motor to pull me through instead of a kicker because it does have more benefits all around.

What did you buy or what would you recommend for my boat as a strong trolling motor on the bow?

Mark

DidleySquat

[Guest]

I bought a minn kota co-pilot power drive. I don't remember the thrust, I think itÔÇÖs 55lbs. I know it was the most powerful 12v motor available at the time. I wear the remote control on my wrist and it sure saves me a bunch of work plus I can operate the motor from anywhere in the boat. I do have a foot controller as well in case the remote goes dead but I never have needed it. They now have co-pilots with built in GPS which is much better system.