I have a Powerwinch windlass on my 1988 32' Avanti and it has stopped retrieving the rode unless someone puts pressure on the finger to engage the rode enough to pull it back up... I got 5 years out of it but it is a POS....... Can I replace a horizontal windless for a vertical unit or is the footprint different for the rode to drop thru.... I'm looking at the Lumar unit right now and either one has got to be way better than this powerwinch junk......
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The hole in the deck from the previous Horizontal Windlass will be center of rode if it were to continue AFT in a straight line down the hull's center line.
A hole in the deck from a previous or future Vertical Windlass, would be offset from center, and would be to the Port side by the dimension of the gypsy OD (minius rode thickness).
IOW, if you now have a Horizontal Windlass......, the deck hole will be at center line of bow, and would not align for a correctly positioned Vertical Windlass.
The Vertical Windlass rode would appear to be off center and it might look odd or funny.
FWIW..... Vertical Windlass Gypsy offers 180* of rode contact.... Horizontal gypsy offers only 90*.
If you can somehow cover the hole, and make a Vertical work, I'd sure go that route.
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Rick E. (aka RicardoMarine) Gresham, Oregon
2850 Bounty Sedan Flybridge model 31' LOA
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Volvo Penta Duo Prop Drives
Kohler 4 CZ Gen Set
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I will have to look at the layout of the 2 different styles maybe I can just elongate the existing opening to fit the style change. The 180* contact is what I'm looking for in hopes that the gypsy won't wear as fast as on the powerwinch did......
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Rick E. (aka RicardoMarine) Gresham, Oregon
2850 Bounty Sedan Flybridge model 31' LOA
Twin 280 HP 5.7's w/ Closed Cooling systems
Volvo Penta Duo Prop Drives
Kohler 4 CZ Gen Set
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I installed lewmar 700 Pro Fish last year (Horizontal) and am really happy with it.
We anchored every weekend last summer and a few of them in 50 to 70Mph winds against the windlass (no clasp on the chain) and that windlass held without letting a single link out.
Went with all chain rode, no sliping.
The install is quick.
Here is what it looks like installed.
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Glen, isn't it Lewmar?
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I ran into this with my 3055. There was no windlass from the factory but a hole dead center for the rode to go down. I thought I would need to get a horizontal eventhough I would prefer a vertical. I ended up making a base plate out of starboard for a vertical to mount on. This also gave me some much needed lift as like your boat my pulpit is attached and not molded.
Phil, Vicky, Ashleigh & Sydney
1998 3055 Ciera
(yes, a 1998)
Previous boat: 1993 3055
Dream boat: 70' Azimut or Astondoa 72
Sea Doo XP
Sea Doo GTI SE
Life is short. Boats are cool.
The family that plays together stays together.
Vice Commodore: Bellevue Yacht ClubComment
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Abigayle III wrote:
I will have to look at the layout of the 2 different styles maybe I can just elongate the existing opening to fit the style change.
The 180* contact is what I'm looking for in hopes that the gypsy won't wear as fast as on the powerwinch did......Phil, that's a good idea, and something similar may solve Abigayle III's problem quoted above.itsabowtime2 wrote:
I ran into this with my 3055. There was no windlass from the factory but a hole dead center for the rode to go down. I thought I would need to get a horizontal eventhough I would prefer a vertical. I ended up making a base plate out of starboard for a vertical to mount on. This also gave me some much needed lift as like your boat my pulpit is attached and not molded.
See my previous post... the rough sketches show approximately how differently the two lay out.
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Rick E. (aka RicardoMarine) Gresham, Oregon
2850 Bounty Sedan Flybridge model 31' LOA
Twin 280 HP 5.7's w/ Closed Cooling systems
Volvo Penta Duo Prop Drives
Kohler 4 CZ Gen Set
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Thanks Roel, I fixed it.Roel Jansen wrote:
Glen, isn't it Lewmar?
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That sounds like the finger spring has failed, a low-cost easy repair.Abigayle III wrote:
it has stopped retrieving the rode unless someone puts pressure on the finger to engage the rode enough to pull it back up.
What does the windlass manual say about that technique? Mine says to NOT use the windlass to hold the boat while anchored.onthelake wrote:
We anchored every weekend last summer and a few of them in 50 to 70Mph winds against the windlass (no clasp on the chain) and that windlass held without letting a single link out.
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"That sounds like the finger spring has failed, a low-cost easy repair."
That was exactly what I thought and the powerwinch rep thought too. I have put 5 new springs and 1 finger in with no change. The next reply from the rep was I installed it wrong and they won't warranty it. My reply was it worked for 5 years like this I don't believe it's installed wrong I just need the right parts to fix it and I will gladly pay for them, I just want it to work like it used to.... What parts do I need and what is the price..
I got no replies after that so I'm moving on to another brand....
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I read through it, didn't find that. However, I know from reading other posts that it's not done much.wingless wrote:
That sounds like the finger spring has failed, a low-cost easy repair.
What does the windlass manual say about that technique? Mine says to NOT use the windlass to hold the boat while anchored.
Those few times we got caught by storms, didn't get a chance to secure the rode. I remember Rick saying in one of my threads that it would happen (anchoring against the windlass) and it did. I was very happy with the heavier windlass and no links went out due to the pounding we took.
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onthelake wrote:
We anchored every weekend last summer and a few of them in 50 to 70Mph winds against the windlass (no clasp on the chain) and that windlass held without letting a single link out.wingless wrote:
What does the windlass manual say about that technique? Mine says to NOT use the windlass to hold the boat while anchored.Here is what the http://www.lewmar.com/assets/img/dat...ro Fish manual says about not using the windlass to hold the load.onthelake wrote:
I read through it, didn't find that. However, I know from reading other posts that it's not done much.
Those few times we got caught by storms, didn't get a chance to secure the rode. I remember Risk saying in one of my threads that it would happen (anchoring against the windlass) and it did. I was very happy with the heavier windlass and no links went out due to the pounding we took.
"Windlass must not be used as the sole means of securing the anchor to the bow fitting especially under storm conditions. Anchors should be independently secured to prevent accidental release."
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OK.... don't you think that a portion of this is a disclaimer of sorts?
I agree that the manufacturer doesn't want you anchoring against the gypsy and gear set in choppy water that may cause a "hammering" affect against the gypsy/gear set.... but what about calm water and/or steady current?
Reverse think this:
Your Windlass is pulling XXX lbs of weight when retrieving the anchor...... and by design it's capable of this for it's life span.
In calm water or in steady current, the pull/load is rather continuous, and without hammering.... yes/no?
I'd be willing to bet that the initial steady load while retrieving is often greater than the load while at anchor in calm water/steady current.
I'd say let your common sense decide whether the conditions will safely allow for this, or not.
Just steer clear of the light duty Windlass found on Ken and Barbie's boat!
It got them into trouble.
Ken's body has yet to be recovered.
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Rick E. (aka RicardoMarine) Gresham, Oregon
2850 Bounty Sedan Flybridge model 31' LOA
Twin 280 HP 5.7's w/ Closed Cooling systems
Volvo Penta Duo Prop Drives
Kohler 4 CZ Gen Set
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Yup, guess I can't read.wingless wrote:
Here is what the http://www.lewmar.com/assets/img/dat...ro Fish manual says about not using the windlass to hold the load.
"Windlass must not be used as the sole means of securing the anchor to the bow fitting especially under storm conditions. Anchors should be independently secured to prevent accidental release."
Interesting reading it again.
Comparing these to another market like off-road applications. We have a 10,000lb winch on the kubota RTV which gets lots of use. The manufacture states they have 100% load holding with no slip, and don't require securing. These manufactures are not worried about slipping gears or teeth grinding. And their warnings are much different, like "don't stand behind the vehicle when winching up a steep incline.
I wander if the marine manufactures give those warnings for different reasons, other than what's considered abuse of the product (like anchoring against the windlass), or they just don't want to warrenty their product for real world use.
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