heat exchanger removal....?-gctid373535

[Guest]

Hey guys... I would like to know if someone could guide me to the right direction on a removal (if this is a good idea) of the heat exchanger on my boat. I have this weerd set up and I would like to make it right. as you can see in the pictures it is a bad set up (but it works). I've seen engines with out the heat exchanger with the right thermostat housing (picture attached) any advice on gains and loses by removing this contraption..? I notice that my water temp is under 120 Deg. under normal driving.Thanks for any advice......:worth

[img]/media/kunena/attachments/vb/676950=26749-IMG_2546.jpg[/img]

[img]/media/kunena/attachments/vb/676950=26750-IMG_2549.jpg[/img]

[img]/media/kunena/attachments/vb/676950=26751-Thermostat water housing AQ 225.jpg[/img]

[JimMc]

What makes you say it is a bad setup ?

A closed loop cooling system circulates antifreeze rather than lake water or sea water through the engine. So you don't have corrosion in the water passages also there is less of a concern of engine damage in a sudden freeze..

[Guest]

as you can see by the pics Jim it was connected with plumbing T's. I also been looking for the same thermostat housing because the one that is there is cracked and leaks a little also, it is near imposible to match the one that is already there.

[dktool]

The Volvo housing in picture #3 is hooked up like this:

,

Large outlet goes to the large, pulley driven circulation pump.

The medium size one, directly opposite the large one goes to the crankshaft driven raw water pump (inlet supply)

The 2 small outlet go the the exhaust manifold, one for each side.

You can send me your exchanger in exchange for the above info.

(I'll pay shipping)

[2850Bounty]

Hector, I agree with Jim. The Closed Cooling system is a much better system over that of an open system.

I see that you have either a Cabin Heater and/or a WH supply plumbed in.

This means that you also have a return port in the Stbd-most port of the engine circulating pump.

Either of these (cabin heater/WH) work much better with a Closed system.

I'd pick up the new T stat housing and install it.

This should be a GM p/n. Try NAPA or e-Bay.

This part is the same as GM P/n 539366, 3705018, 3827370 & 3837223



See which temperature thermostat is in there now, and test it to see if it's working.

If too cool, increase the rating some.

Give that a try, and see if you can get the engine temperature up to approx 160*.

Trigger a heat gun at the base of the T stat housing....., and compare this to your intrument reading.

You may be OK, but have a gauge that is not reading correctly.

Also see if each exhaust manifold is equal in temperature.

You have a splitter/diverter "T" fitting immediately after the spent sea water outlet port on the H/E.

If each manifold is considerably different from one another, (and if both are clean at the transfer ports), 9 times out of 10 it's this splitter or diverter "T" fitting not dividing the flow equally.

Look inside of this T fitting. You should see a copper web that splits/divides water flow.

You can tweak the inner divider some....., or replace it.

If no inner divider, then that's likely the problem.

NOTE: if you do remove the CCS, your engine circulating pump will need to be changed to the Marine version.

(different ceramic seal affair and different impeller material)

This T stat housing is for an open system.

[Guest]

Thanks Jim and Rick for your advice. the boat does not have a water heater, I guess it was remove before my time, but it sounds like this close system is more efficient for the engine performance. I will try to remove the t-stat and replace it with the one you suggested Rick also, check the temps on the manifolds and the "T" fitting. I am going to fallow all the connections as Jim told me to make sure they are set up right. I'll let you guys know the findings.

Thanks again.