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  • Guest's Avatar
    Guest replied
    RickThanks for the Info. I am not sure yet but I will most likely be doing the bearings myself. I will be asking all kinds of ? when I get in to this. I am off to Biloxi Mississippi next week and then I am home for a bit. I hope to get this project moving forward in Feb.I do interactive displays for west marine all over the country.

    [img]/media/kunena/attachments/vb/648287=23919-IMAG0155.jpg[/img]

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  • 2850Bounty
    replied
    ssanderson69 wrote:
    No No No not going to tow all the way to Corbett. Just a mile or so down the road. I am haveing a shop in Newport Pull the engines and store the boat while I rebuild them. Then they are going to set them back in for me and put it back in the water. I hope to have this done by end of march. Still thinking about upgrading to the vortec 350's
    Since I'm the PDS bearing NAZI, I have to ask..... who is installing the new bearings?

    There are several tricks to installing these correctly.... so don't let anyone do this who doesn't know these tricks!! rod

    Make sure that you label the four engine mounts so that these can be reinstalled in the same location (assuming that the F/C's will be left in place).

    (they'll be pulling the eight lag screws on these, and they will lift out with the engines)

    Also while the engines are out, look closely at the shift cable sheathe crimp sleeves.

    If rusty, remove them, shorten the sheathe by 1", reinstall with sealant and SS Euro clamps.

    .

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  • Guest's Avatar
    Guest replied
    No No No not going to tow all the way to Corbett. Just a mile or so down the road. I am haveing a shop in Newport Pull the engines and store the boat while I rebuild them. Then they are going to set them back in for me and put it back in the water. I hope to have this done by end of march. Still thinking about upgrading to the vortec 350's

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  • 2850Bounty
    replied
    Scott, you must have a pretty good size truck and trailer if you're going to pull that boat from the coast to Corbett.

    BTW, you and I are about a stone's throw from one another.

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  • Guest's Avatar
    Guest replied
    Ya still out here. I am traveling for work.

    I see we had strong winds on the coast. My boat is in the south moorage in new port. I hope to get it out of the water next week.

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  • 2850Bounty
    replied
    Scott.... you still out there????

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  • 2850Bounty
    replied
    ssanderson69 wrote:
    ............ I am thinking that I should stay with the 350's and invest in DP lower units.

    Can someone tell me the differences I have found AQ 280 DP and DP-E and also DPS what is the differences they are all 1.95 and when looking at props there are all kinds of them DP A, DP T, DP E, DP F ect...?? am I correct in that the counter rotation in done in the top box? does anything change?

    Also as far as 350 versus 350 vortec is the intake manifold the only external differences. in other words will my tin, sea water pump and alternator,things like be the same? I am going with new exhaust manifolds and risers.

    I here fuel prices are going to be over 5 bucks by labor day, any ideas as to where I should cut the hole for the mast??????
    Cutting a hole for a mast sounds like it may become necessary if fuel prices continue going higher. :hammer

    Nut shelling this.

    You have what some call the AQ series drives. These use main suspension fork and pivot tube geometry (no Gimbal anything).

    The later V/P drives are Gimbal system drives.... the SX and DP-S for example.

    5.7's (350) would dictate 1.95:1 ratio lower unit DP's.

    6.2's (383) would allow (possibly) for the 1.78:1 lower unit DP's. Some depends on hull size/weight.

    Most any out drive could be re-designed for a twin counter rotating propeller lower unit. However, only a cone clutch drive would be reversing capable since it requires fwd/rev selection in the upper unit.

    The Volvo Penta transmission being cone clutch (fwd/rev gear selection in upper unit) is what makes it possible for a Duo Prop drive to be reversing capable.

    Merc does the same with their BIII.

    If comparing later roller cam 5.7L to the Vortec 5.7L, the main and primary changes in the Vortec engine will be the combustion chamber design.

    More specifically the wedge area "shape" and I believe spark plug location.

    (you'll find this and more if you'll look at the other threads mentioned)

    Pre-Vortec left.............................................. . Vortec right.



    GM uses this piston underneath them. Look like a good combo to you????



    The exhaust cross-over is eliminated, and the intake runners are larger.

    The special Vortec intake manifold is required.

    Exhaust port configuration remains the same. ... so no change to exhaust manifolds.

    .

    Attached files http://baylinerownersclub.org/media/....jpg[/img]

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  • Guest's Avatar
    Guest replied
    Thanks for all the info you guys have given me. I have a lot to look in to.

    I am thinking that I should stay with the 350's and invest in DP lower units.

    Can someone tell me the differences I have found AQ 280 DP and DP-E and also DPS what is the differences they are all 1.95 and when looking at props there are all kinds of them DP A, DP T, DP E, DP F ect...?? am I correct in that the counter rotation in done in the top box? does anything change?

    Also as far as 350 versus 350 vortec is the intake manifold the only external differences. in other words will my tin, sea water pump and alternator,things like be the same? I am going with new exhaust manifolds and risers.

    I here fuel prices are going to be over 5 bucks by labor day, any ideas as to where I should cut the hole for the mast??????

    Leave a comment:


  • 2850Bounty
    replied
    Reo's doing a nice job, as are Jim and Mike.

    Mike is presently side-tracked with his new boat..... and I can't say as I'd blame him.

    Reo hasn't posted since last July.

    The issue as I saw it with Reo's 383's was the F/T's, even with the 76cc chambers.

    He calculated that his C/R would be near 9.5:1 range.

    When I run the calc's, here's what I see:

    Engine cylinder bore = 4.030"

    Crankshaft stroke = 3.750"

    Compressed gasket thickness = .021"

    Piston deck clearance = .016"

    (I had to pick numbers here..... and we may as well take advantage of the F/T's and Quench @ .038")

    Piston dish volume = 0

    I come up with 10.36:1

    Even when entering 1cc or 2cc for valve relief piston volume, I still come up with 10.25:1 and 10.14:1 respectively.

    Any of which, IMOO, are too high for the SBC engines under Marine loads and in this size boat.

    Unless we could somehow run low cylinder head temperatures and be very conversative on Ignition Advance, and perhaps fat on fuel/air ratio, I see a potential problem here.

    Street car??? You could pull this off with no issues!

    I wish him the best....... and certainly hope that it works out well for him.

    .

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  • yachtman
    replied
    Here is a thread you mightbe be interested in....

    http://www.baylinerownersclub.org/fo...light=camshaft

    And this one...

    http://www.baylinerownersclub.org/fo...ighlight=fordm

    Here is another...

    http://www.baylinerownersclub.org/fo...ighlight=fordm

    I will post some of my own thoughts on this tomorrow when I have more time.

    Leave a comment:


  • 2850Bounty
    replied
    ssanderson69 wrote:
    Also is there any advantage in changing to the newer vortec motor?
    Yes, and especially if you build with a quench style piston that mirrors the Vortec wedge area.

    Something like this............



    or this, but no short skirts.



    Something like this would be used for a non-Vortec chamber.



    If you'll read those threads linked to in the Vault, you'll see quite a few images that will show you how the piston mirrors the wedge.

    You'll also find additional links to some great articles written by John Erb, Mike Dixon, Bill Cole, Michael Delaney on Ignition Timing, and Jeff Smith on the quench/squish effect.

    Dennis Moore's information has not been promoted outside of his books, so you'd need hands-on to learn what Dennis has to say.

    I learned about the benefits of this in the mid 60's from drag racer Vic McCroskey, who was also from the same the town where I grew up.

    To date, I have never built a SBC without using a piston that offered a squish or quench area.

    .

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  • Guest's Avatar
    Guest replied
    Also is there any advantage in changing to the newer vortec motor?

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  • Guest's Avatar
    Guest replied
    Thanks: you have given me the info to ask the right Questions. I was lead to superior motors because they build marine engines. I will ask for the specs. and try to post them here to see what you all think. There engines come with new tin all ready on them. I do have a relative with a machine shop and a lot of years building engines if I just took mine to him he would build them to my spec if I could get that put together.

    I am only looking at marine grade equipment I would never use automotive stuff in a boat.

    Is it true that you should always replace the manifolds and risers when doing a rebuild? (I have this in the budget)

    Does anyone know if this haul is solid fiberglass I cant find much info about the construction of this model.

    The boat is very clean and everything works I believe the previous owner took good care of her. she has been in salt water for most of her life. but zinks and bottom paint where kept up.

    If I can keep this under 7K and have a good reliable boat then I am doing OK.

    This is my first boat over 25' and Third bayliner. the idea is about a three to five year one. If we like the size and find we use it as much as we plan to then or goal is to go bigger.

    Although I really like the size very big boat.

    We like to boat year round the rain and wind wont stop us from being on the boat.

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  • 2850Bounty
    replied
    nmuir wrote:
    Thanks Rick. Yes that is one of the jobs on the list - based on some BOC forum browsing the recommendation came out loud and clear!
    coo-

    If you do this, you'll never know what castrophy that it saved you from! That's why we're here!

    These guys were lucky. No transmission damage.... but that is not always the case.

    Attached files http://baylinerownersclub.org/media/....jpg[/img]

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  • Guest's Avatar
    Guest replied
    2850Bounty wrote:
    This is certainly unsolicited, but please make sure that you replace your PDS bearings in each flywheel cover. With these not yet installed, it's a piece of cake.

    Buy these from a major bearing supplier, and save yourself some money. You'll get the exact same bearings that you would through Volvo Penta, but at a fraction of the cost. Likewise with the four seals.

    There is a link to a PDS bearing replacement thread in the BOC Vault.

    .
    Thanks Rick. Yes that is one of the jobs on the list - based on some BOC forum browsing the recommendation came out load and clear!

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