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Moving our boat further onto the trailor-gctid372391

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    Moving our boat further onto the trailor-gctid372391

    Was there a thread on properly blocking a boat? I need to move our boat further forward on the trailer as the tung is pulling up on the ball.

    #2
    You're gonna laugh...

    I've done it by stopping quickly.

    It really does work.

    KEVIN SANDERS
    4788 LISAS WAY - SEWARD ALASKA
    www.transferswitch4less.com

    where are we right now?

    https://maps.findmespot.com/s/36S4

    Comment


      #3
      If you need to adjust the trailer, then drop the boat in the water and adjust it, otherwise if the boat isnt far enough forward, drop and reload.

      Blocking a boat from the trailer to the boat is not really possible without some kind of lift. At least I have never seen it done before and I am not sure how you could keep everything stable while doing it??

      Comment


        #4
        ksanders wrote:
        You're gonna laugh...

        I've done it by stopping quickly.

        It really does work.
        This method is best when it's somebody else's boat.

        Drop it in the the water and adjust it in the launch area's parking lot.

        Comment


          #5
          A photo or description of your trailer would help. If it's a bunk trailer, you really want your transom lined up with the back edge of the bunks. If it's already there, see if your axles are moveable. If they're not, and you have no other choice, then proceed with the following in small increments, say 6 inches at a time. Move the bowstand forward, keep the cable/strap attached, then dunk the boat and crank it up. Check hitch weight, repeat...
          Jeff & Tara
          (And Ginger too)
          Lake Havasu City, AZ

          2000 Bayliner 3388
          "GetAway"
          Cummins 4bta 250s

          In memory of Shadow, the best boat dog ever. Rest in peace, girl. July 2, 2010

          Comment


            #6
            Use a heavy duty truck/lorry jack and jack up the trailer and boat together, place chocks/beer barrels under either side of the stern ( being sure that trailer will still move in direction you want it to) lower jack so that stern is now clear of trailer, now wind up jockey wheel or jack up front of trailer until high enough and fit in place port and starboard chocks, now lower jack and (depending in where chocks/barrels were placed, trailer should be able to be moved a to suit

            To place boat back on trailer, carry out procedure in reverse

            Dont know if it'll work for you on your 28fter, but it did for me on my 24fter

            Regards

            Nick
            SOMETIMES ITS BETTER TO KEEP YOUR MOUTH SHUT AND BE THOUGHT STUPID, THAN TO OPEN IT AND REMOVE ALL DOUBT
            24 ft Bayliner Trophy hardtop 1988
            6.2l GM V8 N/A diesel with a Volvo penta 290 DP

            Comment


              #7
              John, your boat can be raised up from the trailer by using crib stands (aka boat jack stands)... two long and two short.



              The boat can remain over the trailer while you do your adjustment! I've done this and it works well.

              But I have a question.

              If the hull fits the trailer now, why not move the suspension undercarriage further AFT, and achieve the tongue weight transfer?

              This let's you maintain the same distance from the winch tower to the ball coupler, and also effectively increases tongue length.

              If you were to do this, you'd jack up the entire trailer... boat and all, and then move the suspension framework AFT.

              Or dunk the boat like others said.

              If you have all of the fastener threads oiled, cracked loose and re-tightened, it could be done in the parking lot at the boat launch.

              .
              Rick E. Gresham, Oregon
              2850 Bounty Sedan Flybridge model
              Twin 280 HP 5.7's w/ Closed Cooling
              Volvo Penta DuoProp Drives
              Kohler 4 CZ Gen Set

              Comment


                #8
                ksanders wrote:
                You're gonna laugh...

                I've done it by stopping quickly.

                It really does work.
                Yep, I did the same thing when I fitted my smart tabs.

                I needed to move my boat forward and backwards to fit them.

                I know others will say it's dangerous blah, blah, blah, but if you are careful and don't go too crazy it is very simple.

                I still had my tie downs attached, just gave them a bit of slack to move the hull a few inches.

                Comment


                  #9
                  You can lift the boat off the trailer with minimal effort.

                  With the trailer disconnected from the tow vehicle, lower the tongue jack as low as it will go. This will raise the stern. Place boat stands on both sides of transom bottom. Some people use wood blocks. I use boat stands. Make sure the ground is solid so the blocks/boat stands won't sink. After blocking stern, raise tongue jack as high as it will go. Place blocks under forward keel. Make sure you have room to roll the trailer forward. Lower the tongue jack until the boat is clear of the trailer. Roll the trailer to the required position and reverse the lifting order.

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Danny wrote:
                    Yep, I did the same thing when I fitted my smart tabs.

                    I needed to move my boat forward and backwards to fit them.

                    I know others will say it's dangerous blah, blah, blah, but if you are careful and don't go too crazy it is very simple.

                    I still had my tie downs attached, just gave them a bit of slack to move the hull a few inches.
                    I have done the same thing, needed to move it up a few inches. Don't think it was dangerous but worked very well.

                    Comment


                      #11
                      If his tongue has 0 weight on it as he seems to imply, he needs more than a few inches of aft movement with his axles. If you do go this route, I'd disconnect your hydraulic brake lines from the cylinders first (assumming that you have hydraulic brakes), otherwise you'll likely destroy them in the process. You'll likely have to install new lines when you finally get your correct weight transfer. As others have mentioned, if your transom rests directly over the back end of the trailer, this is the only solution. If the transom is aft of the back end of the trailer, you can move the bow stop forward.
                      Bob Hawes.
                      Kelowna, B.C.
                      1998 Trophy 2052 WA
                      4.3 Vortec, A1 G2

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Could the ball (hitch) be too high ? I believe the trailer should be pretty close to level when on the hitch.

                        Comment


                          #13
                          ksanders wrote:
                          You're gonna laugh...

                          I've done it by stopping quickly.

                          It really does work.
                          Yup.
                          Started boating 1955
                          Number of boats owned 32
                          Bayliners
                          2655
                          2755
                          2850
                          3870 presently owned
                          Favorite boat. Toss up. 46' Chris Craft, 3870 Bayliner

                          Comment


                            #14
                            The last time I weighed the boat/trailer as loaded it was just under 10,000lb. I will not be slamming the brakes in hope of sliding the boat 6" to 1' forward. The chance of getting it right or having my boat in the bed of my truck just do not look good. I will be blocking the boat on the trailer to adjust the position. I think the safest approach.

                            Comment


                              #15
                              Well good luck with loading it. I found with my Contessa I often didn't get it completely ahead to the winch post stop when loading.

                              I simply hit the brakes to get it in position.

                              I had to move my 2755 ahead because of the same problem you are having.

                              Moved the winch post to the proper position and hit the brakes (lightly its the key word here) to move it to the proper position.

                              Like fine wine you do this in little steps, not just slam on the brakes.

                              If it doesn't move, you do it just a bit harder. Like many things, it isn't all off or all on.
                              Started boating 1955
                              Number of boats owned 32
                              Bayliners
                              2655
                              2755
                              2850
                              3870 presently owned
                              Favorite boat. Toss up. 46' Chris Craft, 3870 Bayliner

                              Comment

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