Brake Actuator Advice-gctid371444

[Guest]

Hey guys,

My brake actuator just went out at the end of last season on my '07 Karavan Trailer. I bought it in March of '08 new so I got a full 4 seasons out of it, not sure if that's good, bad or average.

Anyway, I'm looking to replace it. Mine currently has the UFP A-75 actuator on it. I'm having a hard time finding this currenly, only place I've found it is:

http://www.pacifictrailers.com/ufp-c...r-drum-brakes/

This is just for the inner parts, price of $135 ($153 shipped)

I see my trailer manual also mentions the Tie Down Engineering A66 Actuator.

http://www.easternmarine.com/tie-dow...brake-actuator

I can pick up this whole assembly for $99 ($117 shipped).

I'm looking for a bit of advice here as I'd like to keep the installation as cheap and simple as possible, with that said, I'm willing to pay a bit more if there is a significant differnance in quality. Will either of these bolt up to my trailer? Is one better than the other? Is there a better option around the same price point?

Thanks in advance!

EDIT: I suppose I should mention this is a single axle trailer with drum brakes. Karavan 2800-SB

[bhawes]

You don't mention which type of actuator that you have , but I'm assuming that it's hydraulic. In 40 years of boating (only 3 trailers), I've never had an actuator go out. Why not go on-line, find Karavan, and send them an email suggesting a replacement (emphasing that you do not what the original!). I'd think that most of these are interchangable, as they're pretty simple animals. Have you let yours run dry, possibly due to a failed wheel cylinder? That may dry out the seals and cause a premature failure, but I'd definitely be pulling off all of the hubs and see what's going on inside. You shouldn't be having a failure at 4 years.

[Guest]

bhawes wrote:
You don't mention which type of actuator that you have , but I'm assuming that it's hydraulic. In 40 years of boating (only 3 trailers), I've never had an actuator go out. Why not go on-line, find Karavan, and send them an email suggesting a replacement (emphasing that you do not what the original!). I'd think that most of these are interchangable, as they're pretty simple animals. Have you let yours run dry, possibly due to a failed wheel cylinder? That may dry out the seals and cause a premature failure, but I'd definitely be pulling off all of the hubs and see what's going on inside. You shouldn't be having a failure at 4 years.

Yes, mine is a hydraulic surge brake unit, for a single axle drum brake setup. When I took my boat in for winterization last fall (I live in Iowa), I asked the tech to look at it because I knew something wasn't right with the brakes (they were not applying, the tounge was compressing but nothing was happening). They didn't have the time to dig in deep at that point due to the large amount of work at that time but he said it was likely the actuator. There was still plenty of fluid in the unit. I'd like to do this repair myself and save a bit of $. I will write Karavan to see what they say. Thanks!

[Guest]

System might just need to be bled. Or, the actuator possibly could be bad. I would crack the bleed screw on the far drum while someone pumps the unit. If you get air and/or fluid, then the actuator would be working.

I have the Tie-Down unit and it works great. It is a fine unit for the price. Should easily mount to almost all boat trailers, and yours shouldn't be an issue.

[Guest]

orca wrote:
System might just need to be bled. Or, the actuator possibly could be bad. I would crack the bleed screw on the far drum while someone pumps the unit. If you get air and/or fluid, then the actuator would be working.

I have the Tie-Down unit and it works great. It is a fine unit for the price. Should easily mount to almost all boat trailers, and yours shouldn't be an issue.

Thanks for the advice, I'll crack the bleed screw and see what happens, although, I'd have to hope that my tech already did that... perhaps not.

I thought the Tie Down unit would work, it's also shown in my owners manual so I figured Karavan put them on similar trailers. It sure is a bit cheaper, plus it's the whole unit no just the inners.

[captharv]

As one who has owned 12 trailers over 40 years, the failure mode of actuators is leaks. They leak out of where the rod goes thru. Then, without fluid, the isides gets chewed up.

mostly all the brake actuators were Dico model 10. There are kits available for rebuilding and a replacement complete cylinder is about $70 or so. I have had an automotive parts store match it. I think it was used on a 60s plymouth valliant.

The other failure mode is the brake lines. They rust out and leak. Replace them with the newer nylon lines. The cost isn't that much. With a new or rebuilt cylinder and lones, it should be relatively trouble free.

[Guest]

If you have fluid in the master, then both wheel cylinders probably rusted, or the master is out.

If you do not have fluid, then rusted out lines would be suspect.

[Guest]

If you are going to replace your actuator do yourself a favor and do these first:

Pull wheel drums off and inspect your brakes.

While they are off repack your bearings.

Clean up or repair or replace brake assemblies or pads.

Try to loosen brake line bleed nut and retighten

Install bearings and hubs. Don't over tighten hub nut (finger tight then slight wrench to next cotter pin hole lock on nut) Also put same bearings and drums back on same wheels!!!

Adjust brake shoes to drums if you have this type now while the wheel is off the ground. You can spin the wheel and feel the pad resistance. Check hub temp after a trial drive.

Install new actuator and fill with fluid.

Bleed brake lines starting at longest wheel brake line to shortest. A brake vacuum works well or pump the actuator manually, but have a pal refilling your actuator resevoir as you go so that no air is reintroduced into your new fluid brake lines.

I got my actuator at West Marine, just know what size your trailer tongue is and the trailer rating and they are easy to find.

Your running gear on your trailer should be good now for the coming season. Check for frame cracks and springs/bolts while your wheels are off

Good Luck.

[Guest]

I have an '08 Karavan for my 192, without checking it is likely the same trailer. For state inspection in 2010, the Bayliner dealer told me the actuator needed to be replaced. So I let them do it for about $350!. The following year, I had it in again for inspection and they told me the same thing. I reminded them that they just did that one year ago, and they said no problem and did not charge me. Seems like they were ripping me off the first time, or possibly both times.

[Guest]

Well guys, after a bit more review I've found that my actuator is seized about half way through it's stroke... there was no pressure in the lines. I was going to just order a new actuator but I stumbled on a pretty good deal for a whole brake kit. I ended up ordering a tie down complete disk brake kit for around $400.

http://www.easternmarine.com/tie-dow...it-5-lug-82101

I think this should be better all around than my current 2007 drum setup, plus it comes with new bearings, seals and brake lines do I don't have to worry about wear or contamination.,

Thanks for all the help!

[Guest]

Very nice. You should be very happy with that setup for a long time.