Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

First Start-gctid370789

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

    First Start-gctid370789

    Getting ready to start my boat for the first time in 2.5 years. I know the raw water pump needs to be replaced. I want to verify it will start before I start dropping money for the pump and other items. My question is do I need to worry about the old raw water pump coming apart and lodging somewhere in the motor? Should I just fire it up without water for 1 min to verify it runs then shut it down? I only want to verify it starts then i will dive into the needed maintenance. The boat was winterized and put into storage by the book. Oil changed, filter, new outdrive oil, treated gas, fogged ect.......

    #2
    Chances are your gas went bad in a tank after 2 years in storage, I would start with that first. As far as running without water, well bad idea but I guess if pump is dead you could bump ignition and see if it turns over.

    Comment


      #3
      GrindKore wrote:
      Chances are your gas went bad in a tank after 2 years in storage, I would start with that first. As far as running without water, well bad idea but I guess if pump is dead you could bump ignition and see if it turns over.
      Gas is taken care of. Left very little in tank, will fill up. I just want to turn it over and see if it fires and runs. Then will shut down.

      Comment


        #4
        Make sure all petcocks are closed and hoses are installed. Put water to it and start it up. Watch the temp closely. Don't run it without water.

        Comment


          #5
          If it were mine, heres what I would do:

          Change the impeller. No questions asked.

          remove the spark plugs. Crank the engine until oil pressure comes up and then 30 seconds afteward. The metal parts loose the oil after that time. removal of the spark plugs takes the compression load off the metal parts and the oil will come up and coat them.

          This also will fill the carb, and when the plugs are reinstalled, you should be ready to go.

          When I lived up north, this is what we did in the spring, after the boat sat all winter. Solved that problem by eliminating winter......
          Captharv 2001 2452
          "When the draft of your boat exceeds the depth of water, you are aground"

          Comment


            #6
            As for the impeller.... sitting for 2 1/2 years may have caused several of the vanes/blades to stick to the impeller cavity.

            If the vanes/blades are fragile, turning the pump may pull several pieces from the impeller hub.

            Now these pieces are loose, and have only one direction to go..... and you know where that is! :thumb

            I'd strongly encourage you to pull the lower unit and remove the pump body.

            If you want to do a quick 10-15 second dry-start, pull the entire drive off. You need to check your engine coupler alignment anyway.

            I've been removing my impellers during winter lay up and doing a quick dry-start (to blow the exhaust system dry) for years.

            If fact, this is when I fog my engines.

            10-15 seconds of low RPM run time won't hurt a darn thing. That is long enough to see if it will run.

            3/4 hour later, you could do it again.

            .
            Rick E. Gresham, Oregon
            2850 Bounty Sedan Flybridge model
            Twin 280 HP 5.7's w/ Closed Cooling
            Volvo Penta DuoProp Drives
            Kohler 4 CZ Gen Set

            Comment


              #7
              Well that cinched it. I waited 2.5 years, no sense rushing it. I'll replace the impeller first then attempt to start it. Now I have never pulled the whole out drive and never checked coupler alignment. Is this crucial? Do I need to bring in an expert?

              Comment


                #8
                Chip73 wrote:
                Well that cinched it. I waited 2.5 years, no sense rushing it. I'll replace the impeller first then attempt to start it. Now I have never pulled the whole out drive and never checked coupler alignment. Is this crucial? Do I need to bring in an expert?
                Well, that's the right way to do it. Sitting in the pump housing has certainly taken it's toll on the impeller.

                Yes, the alignment is crucial. It takes only several minutes to check, and only several minutes to make the adjustment.

                You'll spend more time removing and replacing the out drive than you will checking/adjusting the coupler alignment by raising/lowering the engine via the engine mounts.

                Do a search on engine alignment. You should find several threads on this.

                Or... if you do not own a Merc service manual for your model number......, you should buy one.

                It should show your the procedure.

                .
                Rick E. Gresham, Oregon
                2850 Bounty Sedan Flybridge model
                Twin 280 HP 5.7's w/ Closed Cooling
                Volvo Penta DuoProp Drives
                Kohler 4 CZ Gen Set

                Comment


                  #9
                  Thanks guys. More research for me.

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Been looking at all the material regarding alignment. Seems pretty straight forward. Question, since I do not have a drive cart/lift and I need to replace the impeller, would it be better to remove lower unit, then pull upper unit, align, reinstall upper unit then replace impeller and reassemble the lower? Seems like less weight and easier to maneuver but is there a catch? Something coming out of alignment ect......

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Chip73 wrote:
                      Been looking at all the material regarding alignment. Seems pretty straight forward. Question, since I do not have a drive cart/lift and I need to replace the impeller, would it be better to remove lower unit, then pull upper unit, align, reinstall upper unit then replace impeller and reassemble the lower? Seems like less weight and easier to maneuver but is there a catch? Something coming out of alignment ect......
                      Its easier to deal with the out dive if you separate lower unit first. Simply less weight.

                      Comment

                      Working...
                      X