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    Cracked bottom bellow-gctid369430

    Hello gang... when I was checking the sterndrive a few days ago I noticed a small crack in the bottom bellow (see pic) will it be allright if I go this season with it or should I plan on changeing it righ away....? I've heard they are a B-ch to change? and is there danger of having water in the engine compartment because of this..?

    Thanks

    Attached files [img]/media/kunena/attachments/vb/672822=26224-IMG_1991.jpg[/img]

    #2
    I don't see a crack in a bellow, however there is a cover missing from your upper outdrive housing. In general you do not ever want to have any cracks in bellows. Even if its not leaking now, chances that crack will open up and potentially sink your boat or cause out-drive damage.

    Comment


      #3
      Hi Hector,

      The exhaust bellows are not too hard to change. How large is teh crack? No, you wil not get water inside the bopat with this one as it is hooked up to the exhaust pipe. However, if that one is cracked, the top one may not be far behind. When was it last serviced? By pulling the transmission, the bellows are easy to change, probably about 1.5 hours for the experienced and 2.5 for the novice. Your call, but I would be changing it if it were me. I routinely change mine every two years, as I do the crosses.
      Tony, Cape Cod, MA
      Vice Commodore Bourne Yacht Club
      1994 Carver 390 Cockpit Motor Yacht
      454 Merc Cruisers inboards
      "HOLODECK"
      2014 10' hard bottomed Dink powered by 3.3HP Mariner 2 stroke
      www.bourneyachtclub.com

      Comment


        #4
        yes, I have the cover, it was removed to replace a couple of pins.

        Comment


          #5
          From another post i read, those cracks or slits are there to drain out water when the unit is up. When the drive is down they seal up... i saw a pic of OEM one and it came with slits.. sorry i dont recall the post

          Comment


            #6
            I just got this boat last year and the crack is very small, I don't know how old thise bellows are, but I was planning to do some work on them by the end of this season (I hope not sooner) do you know if I have to replace any seals when I do this bellows replacement? is there a kit out there with everything or do I have to buy the stuff separately?

            Thanks bud.

            Comment


              #7
              Similar forum check this out... hope it helps

              http://forums.boatingworld.com/newfo...?TopicID=10650

              Comment


                #8
                I will read the thread Thanks again.

                Comment


                  #9
                  Hectors_blackpearl wrote:
                  I just got this boat last year and the crack is very small, I don't know how old thise bellows are, but I was planning to do some work on them by the end of this season (I hope not sooner) do you know if I have to replace any seals when I do this bellows replacement? is there a kit out there with everything or do I have to buy the stuff separately?

                  Thanks bud.
                  Someone else will have to chime in here.. this is my first inboard. ive been reading up on everything however, i have done no maintenance on mine... atleast not yet. sorry i couldnt be of more help bud.

                  Comment


                    #10
                    http://www.baylinerownersclub.org/fo...ow+replacement

                    Similar deal here...

                    Comment


                      #11
                      My advice is check out youtube... and go from there... they have everything a boater needs

                      Comment


                        #12
                        thank you for your sugestions greatly appreciated.

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Hectors_blackpearl wrote:
                          I just got this boat last year and the crack is very small, I don't know how old thise bellows are, but I was planning to do some work on them by the end of this season (I hope not sooner) do you know if I have to replace any seals when I do this bellows replacement? is there a kit out there with everything or do I have to buy the stuff separately?

                          Thanks bud.
                          That is a rhetorical question. The upper bellows (for the crosses) is ULTRA important! It leaks, water will damage the upper housing gear works and also the Primary Driveshaft Bearings (PDS). Whereas you just got the boat, I would have been:

                          1) draining outdrive and checking/changing lubricant 9staright motor oil if a single prop

                          2) pressure/vacuum testing drive for integrity

                          3) pulling transmission (upper drive) and checking/replacing crosses (I routinely change every 2 years)

                          4) while transmission is off, checking drive shaft bearings. If age unknown, replacing and maintaining proper grease in them

                          5) changing both bellows

                          Always store with drive down and in straight ahead position to avoid strain on it. The task of removing teh transmission os not too difficult. It will require a hex/allen head wrench, a 9/16" "modified" wrench, a couple of o rings and if I remember correctly, approx 2 to 2.75 quarts of lubricant (GL-5 if a duo prop, straight 30 weight up here in New England if a single prop). If the PDS are bad, or the upper bellows, this job which if done yourself for a few bucks can turn into a job that will cost THOUSANDS in $$'s and a lot of lost boating time. If you want to give a call, email me and I would be happy to speak and share my experiences.

                          Rick will also add to this, as he has guided me and saved my an infinite amount of money in the above procedure,
                          Tony, Cape Cod, MA
                          Vice Commodore Bourne Yacht Club
                          1994 Carver 390 Cockpit Motor Yacht
                          454 Merc Cruisers inboards
                          "HOLODECK"
                          2014 10' hard bottomed Dink powered by 3.3HP Mariner 2 stroke
                          www.bourneyachtclub.com

                          Comment


                            #14
                            tonyiiiafl wrote:
                            That is a rhetorical question. The upper bellows (for the crosses) is ULTRA important! It leaks, water will damage the upper housing gear works and also the Primary Driveshaft Bearings (PDS). Whereas you just got the boat, I would have been:

                            1) draining outdrive and checking/changing lubricant 9staright motor oil if a single prop

                            2) pressure/vacuum testing drive for integrity

                            3) pulling transmission (upper drive) and checking/replacing crosses (I routinely change every 2 years)

                            4) while transmission is off, checking drive shaft bearings. If age unknown, replacing and maintaining proper grease in them

                            5) changing both bellows

                            Always store with drive down and in straight ahead position to avoid strain on [COLOR]"#0000FF" wrote:
                            the underside of the drive shaft bellows.[/COLOR]
                            Very true!

                            Hector, I rarely see these exhaust bellows fail.... unless the owner is leaving the drive stored in the UP position.

                            The exhaust bellows will have a deliberately placed weep hole in them...... bottom side/FWD. This is to allow water to drain while the drive is tilted up slightly!

                            I'd rather see you spend your time and money on a Drive Shaft bellows replacement, as that is the important one.

                            See the BOC Vault Volvo Penta frequently asked Q's and A's section.

                            As for the exhaust bellows allowing water to enter the boat, not true on that merit alone!

                            Side notes:

                            no need to read any Mercruiser related forums or articles. Your Volvo Penta drive has few similarities with the Merc.

                            Merc is a dog clutch, Gimbal System drive.........., your AQ series is cone clutch, Main Suspension Fork-Pivot Tube geometry. Apples/Artichokes!

                            your shift cover is missing, or is not installed. When not installed, the hydraulics around the eccentric piston seal can allow water to enter the out drive.

                            your linkage arm is set up for a RH prop. Just an FYI on that.
                            Rick E. Gresham, Oregon
                            2850 Bounty Sedan Flybridge model
                            Twin 280 HP 5.7's w/ Closed Cooling
                            Volvo Penta DuoProp Drives
                            Kohler 4 CZ Gen Set

                            Comment


                              #15
                              Thanks a bunch, that makes me feel better. I will keep an eye on them and most likely will change them by the end of the season, so you guys might hear from me for some of your rich advice.

                              Thanks.


                              Comment

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