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    Volvo Penta information-gctid575470

    I just bought a used 1983 Bayliner capri. Out of all the research that I was able to find, I assume I have an AQ125 with a 270 sterndrive unit. I am totally new at the inboard scene but glad to get away from the outboard.. I have a pic. of really the only indentifying label associated to the engine. Is there anything else a block stamp I am missing or anything else that can confirm what type of setup I have?




    #2
    I can't tell from the serial numbers. 270 drive sounds about right for the year. We have a member who is a Volvo guru who should be stopping by this thread when he gets back from his vacation in a few days. He'll be able to tell you what you have, when it was made, and what color eyes the guy who made it had.

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      #3
      Excellent, greatly appreciated. As I am going to change the two boots on the 270 along with carb rebuild, impeller change, belts change, plugs, etc. and knowing exactly what engine (setup) I have would really help. Don't want to take out on first voyage just to be towed back.. lol been there done that when my outboard evinrude broke two gears on the lower unit.. From my reading, this 270 is a lot more reliable as far as propulsion goes. Did have a question about props. A friend of mine said I should get a 4 blade prop to help get the boat moving, was explained in terms I can recognize, like adding more torque to a vehicle but losing top end, which then he said add 2" pitch to compensate. I am ignorant when it comes to boats, I admit. All this about diameter, pitch, slippage, theoretical thrust, is a little daunting. I would like to get other opinions if what he said is true. He does run a boat with a built 454 in it so I assume he knows a little. But my boat is heavy and I haven't even taken it out yet as I want to replace stuff to me that just looks like it's original equipment.

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        #4
        hmmm, your friend better goes back to school..... The way props are selected is different and when going from a 3-blade to a 4-blade you typically have to go 2" pitch LOWER. Example: if you have a 21P now in 3-blade you would go with a 19P in 4-blade. Reason is that the 4-blade has more "active" area which lugs your engine more down.

        After you have tuned the engine and to select the correct prop for the engine you have to let us know what WOT (wide open throttle) RPM's you achieve with your current prop and typical load and what the WOT spec is for your engine. After that the correct propeller pitch can be determined. There are some differences between props and their design but the above is the best possible assumption. We also need the pitch of the current prop.....

        No matter what you will do, the top speed with a 4-blade will always be a tad lower than with a 3-blade but it can be as small as 1mph..... You don't want to run WOT for more than a few minutes unless you are eager to replace the engine soon :evil:

        With what your friend suggested you would load your engine far to much, the engine wouldn't come up in RPM's fast enough and wouldn't be able to turn it fast. At the end: worse acceleration and far lower top speed then what you have today. It would only work if your engine would have unlimited torque and HP inch:

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          #5
          I have 2 125b blocks and am rebuilding one. My boat is an 86. Both have a brass plates about 3" long and 1/2" wide on the engine block just above the starter. This would id your engine for you if they're still there. :P

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            #6
            After little light cleaning, it was discovered in front of the starter as you stated. Greatly appreciated. Now I am sure for the parts I am going to order will be correct. I heard some talking about the Pentronix. Is that a good investment to replace my points setup?




            The tag looks like something just pulled up from the bottom of the ocean laying next to the titanic. lol antique look to it.

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              #7
              What you stated makes a lot of sense. Since his boat has a lot of torque and horsepower I am sure that is his thinking. So my standard prop is a 15x17 so on a 4 blade setup I should go a 15x15. So I really won't see much speed difference just little more pull for towing a tube or skiing correct? B)

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                #8
                correct, the hole shot or acceleration will be a bit better but top speed will go down a bit. Usually at the best cruising RPM's the speed is about the same. Naturally this is only valid if your current prop gives you the desired WOT RPM's...... As everything in life it's a compromise and only you will know which evil you can live with better. I have a 3-blade and a 4-blade and install whatever I think I like better that day........

                As for the Pertronix the opinions are seriously divided. Some believe its better some say it's worse than points. It also depends on which type of Pertronix as there are some I wouldn't touch due to issues with lifetime/reliability.

                I had Pertronix in vehicles and had mixed experience with them too.

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                  #9
                  On that note, I will keep my points then just make sure my advance is working correct and gap set correct. I had a 67 Plymouth fury with a 440 in it and had points, I tried to incorporate a 77 440 setup with the electronic ignition and was a pain. but eventually straightened it out swapping heads from the 77 due to unleaded gas, different valve material which was suited for non leaded gas. Eventually went back to the points, just more reliable and at that time more accurate of a spark delivery.. just hate changing the ballast resistor on the fire wall all the time.. .

                  I changed the oil and I was thinking to myself (really mumbling absurdity), there has got to be a better and easier way to drain the oil. After about 5 little low profile tuperware full, I was done which took time weaseling it out from under and through the cavity into the battery compartment and up and out of the boat to a bucket. I saw one of the members who had a neat device to suck out the oil, I feel for him as what a time to find a milky mixture for his oil, been there on a head gasket issue, except mine was backwards, oil in the water causing overheating due to not cooling down because oil all in the radiator. Are those things effective or is there another way.. Just curious.. :whistle:

                  Comment


                    #10
                    These oil extractors work fine. The only little drawback is that these engines are not designed for it and the dip stick doesn't go to the deepest point in the oil pan. That means there's a risk that you leave some dirty oil and residue in the pan. The alternative are these little hoses which are permanently attached instead of the oil pan drain plug. You pull them out through the drain plug of the boat, put a container below and drain all the oil at once.....

                    Now, with modern car engines like all Mercedes that's different. They are designed for extraction only and don't even have an oil drain plug any more. If you use the correct extraction "nozzle" you are at the lowest point in the oil pan.

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Was a simple fix for your 67 plymouth, valve sleeves.

                      No need for new heads.
                      Be good, be happy, for tomorrow is promised to no man !

                      1994 2452, 5.0l, Alpha gen. 2 drive. Sold ! Sold ! Sold !

                      '86 / 19' Citation cuddy, Merc. 3.0L / 140 hp 86' , stringer drive. Sold ! Sold ! Sold !

                      Manalapan N.J

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                        #12
                        When you say these little hose, Is it some kind of oil plug adapter , like a petcock for a gas tank on a motorcycle? does it have a valve and the hose is attached to it . then when I want to drain the oil just stick the tube out the boat drain hole. What is this setup called?

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                          #13
                          True, but I switch from the 915 heads to the 452 heads because a little more was involved . one, the 452 heads had hardened exhaust valve seats and the fact that I could run unleaded weak octane rating due to the fact that my engine went from 10.0 to 1 to around 9.0 to 1 compression due to 915 heads closed chamber and the 452 heads open chamber. But know when I went to race locals, I would switch the heads back, go down to 76 get some blue gas mix half and half put me about 98 octane and change my third member from driving around 2.76 gears to my 3.91 posi gears. other mods were done too, like disc brakes off of a new Yorker instead of huge drums up front. reverse valve body shift kit, little better than stock stall. I could change the third member in 30 minutes and the heads not much longer than that. got really good gas mileage when not setup for racing. And to top it off found out through a good mopar buddy after checking my block that I had a U for the engine which stated it is a 440 special and after more research, it was a six-pack motor but didn't receive the six-pack carbs. stronger rods etc. and my fury was a 67 sport fury VIP 2 door hardtop. Was pretty impressive to get the front wheels off the ground on a car so big that my friends pick on me and tell me to open the trunk to get my oars out because of the big boat I was driving. lol. but yes could have been just a valve guide swap but had reasons for the approach I went to make it run for two different lifestyles (daily driver / weekend warrior)..

                          Comment


                            #14
                            "Malicious1" post=575836 wrote:
                            When you say these little hose, Is it some kind of oil plug adapter , like a petcock for a gas tank on a motorcycle? does it have a valve and the hose is attached to it . then when I want to drain the oil just stick the tube out the boat drain hole. What is this setup called?
                            Remote Oil Drain Kit. Available for Merc's and Volvo's. You have to pick the correct version for your engine and drain plug diameter

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                              #15
                              I found that kit you are talking about. I have a question about the prop. I took this forums advice, searching for correct pitch, now they threw in another twist. long hub or short hub for the 270? Doesn't explain what I need to measure or how do you determine which one you have?

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