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Pictures of my battery setup-gctid571297

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    Pictures of my battery setup-gctid571297

    I wanted to share with all the battery setup I installed on my boat. Some of you may remember the long discussions we had when I was contemplating this. In the end I chose the ACR solution (over the isolator solution) bu added a few other features. Some of you may find this an overkill but I am a techno-junkie; what can I do!

    First photo shows the 3 batteries I installed. these are arranged as 2 battery groups. Grp-1 is a parallel setup of 2 deep-cycle batteries with 105 Ah each (combined 210 Ah). I Use this grp as the house battery. Grp-2 is a single starter battery (190 Ah) intended for starting the engine (Diesel) and also drives the Bow Thruster (direct connection from the battery). An MBSS (located inside the transom cabinet) is also present but it is used in an unorthodox manner, as I shall explain below.

    I replaced the 3-output but only 15A battery charger that came with the boat with a combination charger/inverter that has a 50A output plus a 4A trickle charge output. The two battery groups are charged via the single alternator or the battery charger. Note that the battery charger can be powered either via shore power or the on board genset. Carger output is connected directly to the house battery group whereas the alternator output is connected to the engine/start battery. Either way, whenever one of the batteries is receiving charge a Blue Sea Systems ACR (ML-7622) becomes active and combines the two battery groups so they both receive the charge. The engine/start battery is connected to the trickle charge output of the battery charger so that when receiving charge through the battery charger it receives only a trickle charge but receives charge from the alternator, via the ACR, when engine is running. To achieve the separation, a relay is installed (inside a housing, for safety reasons) that detects presence of 220v AC (European) and sends a 12v dc level to the Contura 2146 switch that controls the ACR operation so that the ACR is forced out of action if AC voltage is present. A separate switch on that box (not visible in the photo) disables the 220v relay if I choose to do so. The following photo shows these components.

    Now, we come to the the more unorthodox section of my implementation. The MBSS receives the engine/start battery (battery grp-2) at its #2 terminal and at its #1 terminal it receives the output from a battery-relay circuit that I installed. This battery-relay circuit consists of two Blue Sea Systems ML-RBS relays that enable either, both, neither of the grp-1 and grp-2 battery group outputs to be connected to the #2 terminal of the MBSS. The ML-RBS relays are each controlled via a separate Contura 2145 switches. The ML-RBS relays are shown in the next photo.

    Finally, the control switches, as installed on the dashboard, are shown in the following photo.

    The leftmost switch controls the ACR operation. IN its middle (auto) position it allows the ACR to sense charging at either side and conects the two sides together so they both receive the charge. When the ACR is wctive both LED indicators become lit indicating ACR is active. However, if the ACR is prevented from closing because of the AC-detecting relay that I installed, these LEDs flash, indicating ACR detects charging (via the battery charger) but is not active. The next two switches enable the House (grp-1) or engine/start (grp-1) battery to be selected and connected to the #1 terminal of the MBSS. When I am on the boat, I keep the MBSS in its #1 position so I can control battery selection via these switches. To start the engine I enable the Engine battery and disable the House battery. When I am at anchor, I enable the House battery and disable the Engine battery. If there is a malfunction at either of these relays, I can manually bring the MBSS to its #2 position so that the Engine/Start battery is selected at the MBSS common node, regardless of the House or Engine battery switch settings. Also, I leave theHouse battery enabled and Engine/Start battery disabled when I am connected to shore power. The purpose is to prevent the Engine battery becoming depleted if I forget to turn off the MBSS and Main DC-MAIN switches and somehow I lose shore power, in which case the two fridges become fed from batteries.

    Finally, let me point out the ACCY (Accessory) switch to the right of these switches. This switch powers my GPS and a few other gauges/instruments that I have added, even if the ignition is turned off. Note that nothing is powered off if the MBSS or DC-MAIN switch is turned off. The reason for this is that I was told the engine hours are advanced whenever the ignition is on, regardless of whether the engine is running or not. This way I can keep the engine hours from advancing while at anchor and still keep my GPS active so I can setup anchor alarm or do other things with the GPS/depth gauge.

    An overkill, may be but it is working well. I tried to have the best quality installation using all the appropriate fuses, cable/route choices, etc.

    Happy boating,
    Retired, computer expert / executive
    Bayliner 285 Cruiser / Mercruiser QSD 4.2L 320 HP Diesel
    Live in the Bay Area, CA, USA, boat in Turkey
    D-Marin @ Turgutreis in Bodrum/Turkey