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Seeking Thoughts and Advice on 93(39) 2452 fuel tank replacement-gctid367878

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    Seeking Thoughts and Advice on 93(39) 2452 fuel tank replacement-gctid367878

    Hello, all SurfnTurf here, I am new to this site and new to Bayliners. I used to have a 1977 Searay sedan, but am purchasing a 93' 2452 and yes I'm getting a great deal on it because YES it needs a new Fuel Tank. And YES....I have already read all the related posts here I could find relating to this topic they have all been very helpful, and yes I have seen all of John L's picts really great stuff.

    I will be doing this work my self I am a capable mechanic and jack of all trades and frankly love this stuff, doing the work is half the fun for me. But one of the nagging questions I am having that I really could seem to find any discussion on is WHY? replace old fuel tank with Aluminum tank when it seems so problematic? WHY not Poly? what are the pro's and cons have any of you gone with Poly or Plastic fuel tanks?

    Also with regard to some of the other methods I saw used such as the liner repair methods, has there been any follow up info as to how well or not so well these worked?

    as well as any follow up on NEW tank replacements things that worked better than others such as using the starboard as a spacer between tank and hull vs other materials etc. or anything else one may have done differently now in hindsight.

    Basically I'm just trying to compile the wisdom and experience here to determine the best safest final approach to the project. Any thoughts and advice and follow up you all may have I would be truly grateful for. Thanks.

    I can't comment on replacing tanks, however I do know Bayliner started using poly tanks in 242 models some time in early 2000's. My 2005 242 has a plastic tank from factory. Its a T shaped 85 US Gallon gasoline tank installed forward of the engine.


      I plan on updating my posts when I unwrap the 2452, I made it through last season with no issues.

      And I don't see/smell any gas from the drain hole. should be another week or so before I cut it out of the wrap.

      If i had to replace the tank and planned on keeping the boat for a long time poly would be the way to go.

      Your tank did last almost 20years...


        Thanks Grind and James,

        while the repair option seems tempting especially if has held up, it seems like one of those things that would constantly nag you in the back of your mind when you should be busy relaxing and enjoying the water but would still love to hear more about what you find. I'm curious if anyone has sucessfully removed their fuel tank by only removing the motor and maybe some cutting below deck surface or if cutting the deck is the only way to really do it right. As for Poly tank vs Aluminum it seems like Poly resolves a lot of the issues that plagued the aluminum tank and would likely last a lot longer. Does anyone have a manufacturer and maybe a part number for a good poly tank replacement for a 93' 2452? price to?


          this boat has a chevy 305 small block does anyone have any idea what the sweet spot is with this motor & hull for the best fuel economy at sea level how many knots? rpm's? I'm less concerned about going fast as I am economy.

          any other helpful hint on 93' 2452 more than welcome here


            You can contact your local Bayliner dealer for tank information however, I believe the poly tank will not fit where your metal tank is. Since you owned/own a SeaRay, the economical running is just on plane + about 200 rpm, same as your other boat. Lifting the outdrive about 1-3 seconds should also help best economy as well as dropping the trim tabs a little bit. If the boat starts to porpoise, the outdrive is up too high and all you need to d then is drop the outdrive down a tad. Also moving heavy stuff forward helps as well.
            Doug ;}
            MMSI: 338068776
            "Go Aweigh to" Photos < click on red letters... 2001 Bayliner 2452 w/6.2 HO (paid for)



              I don't see how the tank could fit through the engine bay, if it could I would of replaced mine with a poly tank for sure.

              The tank is big and almost glued in. The few people I have talked to who have done it needed a forklift or engine lift to break it free.

              The funny thing about the repair is I feel better the epoxy is stronger than the Al tank, and I have access if I ever need to get into it again.


                Properly installed a new aluminium tank will outlast the useful lifespan of your boat.

                You can get one in the exact size you need.

                Seems like an easy decision.

                KEVIN SANDERS

                Whats the weather like on the boat

                Where am I right now?


                  What jamesfast said, The tank will not fit through the engine opening, I had mine replaced also, and yes it took a forklift to pry it loose it was foamed in so tight it was a chore getting it out, I had a outfit in Seattle build me a tank to the same diminisions but out of .125 thick rather than the flimsy .080 bayliner put in them, Also as far as a plastic tank goes, don't know if they put baffles in them or not, but if not might be conserned with the weight of 450 lbs moving around, and as far as the rubber strips under the tank being an issue, I think anything that comes in contact with the tank over the years is going to permote corrision, I know a company that builds boats for the coast guard that is useing the rubber strips under the tanks still today,


                    first off..welcome to the zoo....

                    IF you can get a poly tank..I'd go with it......

                    :arr arr


                      If you go with an aluminum tank, do not foam it in.

                      How to install an aluminum fuel tank by David Pascoe.

                      Pat says: DO-IT-RIGHT THE FIRST TIME!

                      Bayliner 3870 "ALASKA33)
                      Twin 350 GM power
                      Located in Seward, AK
                      Retired marine surveyor


                        I saw one with my own eyes. Engine out on the ground, tank in the back of the pick up. The forklift was still there. I did not see them take it out or put it back but the whole mess was gone a week later. I did see they cut some of the lumber around the other tanks. I know of the guy that did the work and he has a good reputation.

                        After seeing this job I wouldn't do it that way. Even if you were able to get it out and back , I'm sure there would be some compromises .

                        If you plan your cuts so that you don't have to cut more later you should be able to reinstall the deck with just a few seams. I would consider reinforcing the seams and leaving the deck removable with calk and screws.

                        Let us know how it turned out.


                          thank you all for your thoughts, it's all very helpful. I will keep you all posted as I narrow down my decision, and finally the execution of it.

                          Please keep the input coming, the more the marry.


                            I just completed the POR15 tank lining in mine and feel good about it. I haven't been able to test it on the water yet, but will be within a week or two once I de-winterize it. I had a hole I could fit my pinky through, and it is sealed up tight now. I put in the "POR Patch" through the hole to fill it, then painted on the POR, placed fiberglass mesh over any areas that were suspect, and paited on more POR. I put several coats to make sure all of the pores in the mesh was filled and to make sure the liner was plenty thick. Then I cut a 1/8" thick plate and screwed it down with more POR patch as the sealer. Per POR, if I ever have to get back in, I will have to cut this back apart, as they are that sure of the capabilities of their sealer. I have to agree, from what I can see, it should hold up for the remaining life of the boat. I used what was left to seal up the 10 gallon tank on my old Ford 8N tractor and it did an equally good job on it. I will monitor it closely, but I know on motorcycle tanks, this stuff out lives the motorcycles themselves, and I would expect the same for this.

                            As for Poly vs Aluminum, I have heard the poly tanks tend to "breath" a little different and people have complained about a fuel smell just coming from the tank area when nothing is leaking. I don't know the specifics so it might be worth more investigation, but that would be a concern of mine if going that route. I do agree that a good aluminum tank installed properly will last at least 20 years or more. My porly intalled factory tank lasted 19 years in saltwater conditions.


                              Thanks Kleake,

                              Couple more questions if you don't mind,

                              1. How big was the access hole you made into the tank did you have to due and additional cutting on the the boat ?

                              2. How much POR did you end up using and what was the total cost of it. where did you get it I live in WA, near Anacortes.

                              3. How much total time involved would you say you had into the repair?

                              My tank has been sitting dry for some time now almost two years other thoughts on prep and clean pre-POR?

                              Also did you or has anyone ever looked into or heard of a BLADDER style repair where you insert some kind of bladder into the existing tank?

                              thanks again