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    2556 wiring-gctid367679

    I just got done redoing the wiring on the boat, because I found so many automotive connectors wrapped with black tape that it took me awhile to get it all. I have a saying "I been with the same woman long enulf I know how to spell ASSUME, well I guest I am wrong. The boat came with two batteries and a selector switch, so I assumed there was two separate circuits. I installed the engine battery to turn the motor over, as soon as I turned the switch on I heard a pump running, not good. Upon futher investigation I found both fuse panels were hot. After lookng at the wiring diagram is shows the hot lead ( R-PU ) going thur the plug on the engine.

    [img]/media/kunena/attachments/vb/671056=26064-100_2062.jpg[/img] My question is can I take the R-PU wire out of the back of the plug and run it to the house battery fuse panel without causing more problems? Hopefully that way the engine battery will be just for the engine!!!ThanksMitch & Sharon

    #2
    Mitch, if I'm understanding you, you are thinking that there is a different hull harness connection between the "Start" battery and the "House" battery.

    The selector switch is sometimes refered to as an MBSS (main battery selector switch), "select" being the key word here.

    Each battery bank will connect to a corresponding terminal at the rear of the MBSS.

    Typically the Start battery connects to terminal #1.

    Typically the House Load battery bank connects to terminal #2.

    (Start batt should be a Cranking Battery........ House Load batts are best if Deep Cycle and multiples)

    When the MBSS is turned to either #1 or #2, it will send power via the "Common" cable to the engine starter motor connection.

    From the engine starter motor connection, power is then delivered to the boat's main hull harness (also a portion of the engine harness).

    IOW, the only difference (in terms of the battery bank), will be the selection that you make.

    Crank on #1......, charge #1 while you warm engine, then switch to #2.......

    Or....... remain on #1, and switch to #2 when you drop anchor.......

    Many will do the first scenario and switch to #2 so that #2 charing occurs while you are running to your destination.

    Your call.

    Nothing needs to be changed to the OEM wiring unless you want to modify your system, which does complicate things a tad bit.

    Bluesea products offer some ACR units and Auto-Combining units that can be added.

    .
    Rick E. Gresham, Oregon
    2850 Bounty Sedan Flybridge model
    Twin 280 HP 5.7's w/ Closed Cooling
    Volvo Penta DuoProp Drives
    Kohler 4 CZ Gen Set

    Comment


      #3
      On my 2556, the battery switch will turn one or the other battery into the primary battery for starting the engine or running the house wiring. You could run ALL when under way, then switch to the house battery when moored. This removes the start battery from the circuit. It should be fresh the next day for starting. You can buy a battery isolator that splits the charge from the alternator and charges both batteries independently.

      If you have hot wiring, something is shorted out. Track it down so you don't burn your wiring.

      When I switch on my batteries, I have a a bilge pump the starts for just a second. Some of the electronic float switches do this. It's not uncommon.

      Comment


        #4
        Monterey10 wrote:
        1..... On my 2556, the battery switch will turn one or the other battery into the primary battery for starting the engine or running the house wiring. You could run ALL when under way, then switch to the house battery when moored. This removes the start battery from the circuit. It should be fresh the next day for starting.

        2.... If you have hot wiring, something is shorted out. Track it down so you don't burn your wiring.

        3....When I switch on my batteries, I have a a bilge pump the starts for just a second. Some of the electronic float switches do this. It's not uncommon.
        1.... Craig, well said. I like the "primary" idea......... and it's always good to hear another way of saying it.

        2.... Or....... it's a circuit that is intended to be powered 24/7.

        3.... Craig, that may be confusing to some.

        Whether we switch battery banks ON or OFF, our main bilge pump float switch power should remain "Un-Interruptible".

        Perhaps you're talking about the Water-Witch switches...... do these cycle when the hull power is turned on/off?

        .
        Rick E. Gresham, Oregon
        2850 Bounty Sedan Flybridge model
        Twin 280 HP 5.7's w/ Closed Cooling
        Volvo Penta DuoProp Drives
        Kohler 4 CZ Gen Set

        Comment


          #5
          I have this MBSS switch set-up in my boat. http://www.fisheriessupply.com/produ...4&keywords=bep

          The motor switch is hooked-up to one battery and runs everything on the boat as far as what came when it was delivered to be by the dealer. I purchased by boat new so there wasn't anything added by a previous owner. The house switch is connected to the other battery which is connected to electronics that I have added to the boat myself. Things like downriggers, radios and GPS.

          There is also a combine switch which turns on both batteries to everything on the boat as long as both of the other switches are turned on. I use this switch similar to how you would use jumper cables.

          One nice thing about this set-up is the voltage sensative switch. If either battery is receiving more than 14VDC, the switch electronically connects both batteries for charging. Once the voltage drops below 13VDC it disconnects.

          Comment


            #6
            [img]/media/kunena/attachments/vb/671776=26155-100_2072.jpg[/img]

            [img]/media/kunena/attachments/vb/671776=26156-100_2076.jpg[/img]These are the wiring diagrams that I'm looking at. When I put just the engine battery in and turn on the MBSS all the fuse blockes are hot, with the exception of the house fuse block. I would prefer that the engine battery is just for the engine. The only way I can see that happening is to take the power (R-PU) and ground (B) from the back of the plug and run them to the house fuse block. The way it is wired now most everthing (macerator, water, shower pumps, all lights,all radios and more) are run on the engine battery. There would be very little on the house battery. Should I just leave it like it is knowing that I have the 31 to back me up as there is very little on it and quit worrying about having a dead engine battery.

            [img]/media/kunena/attachments/vb/671776=26159-100_2065.jpg[/img]I have up graded our battery (group 27 start,31 deep cycle house), charging Leece-Neveille 105 amp alternator with Blue Sea ACR. The only way we have to charge the battery is while we are running.HelpMitch

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