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    Auto Bilge Pump-gctid367336

    Wow, boating season is quickly coming and I'm trying to get a head start on boat work this year.

    So instead of doing dry dock this year, we decided to rent a slip this summer and therefore the boat will be in the water most of the summer.

    My Bayliner 195 BR has a switch operated bilge pump and I think I should have an automatic pump for the season. I'm thinking a Rule 500 Automatic (no switch needed) might be the easiest route to take with this one. My thought is this way I don't need to change the on/off switch to a 3 position switch on the dash (unless these switches are easily available.)

    Any suggestions, comments are very welcome as I am looking to do this myself as economically as possible.

    Thanks.

    #2
    The 3 way switches are very cheap but not a good idea for a boat left in the water: you could accidentally bump the switch to off before you leave the boat at the marina.

    Get the biggest pump you can and wire it directly to the battery so it will work regardless of any switches on the boat.

    A switch is nice to have so you can periodically check that the pump works when there's not enough water in the bilge to activate the sensor in the pump.
    1998 Capri 1950CL
    3 Liter MerCruiser
    Furuno 1622 Radar, Garmin echoMAP44dv, Garmin 300 AIS receiver, Uniden Cl 2 VHF with Hailer,
    2 batteries with Combiner, Joystick Wakeboard Tower

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      #3
      If you don't have an automatic pump, yes install one. I prefer a pump with a seperate float switch. You can reach down and lift the float. If the pump runs you know all is working.

      Some of the automatic pumps run once every two minutes for one second to test for the presence of water. We tried one of these and I hated it. Vvvv........Vvvvv......Vvvv.....Vvvv....on and on. It drove me knuts. It died and I happily returned it to West Marine.

      I would go with a bit bigger pump for two reasons.
      • Pumps have proven to rarely deliver their rated performance.
      • A small boat will sink faster than a larger one.


      Ultimately many of us install a small pump low for handling minor water.

      Then we install a big pump slightly higher for when the sheet hits the fan.

      BTW do not depend on a bilge pump to deal with a on going leak. If you have a leak fix it.

      Also if you are going to be away from the boat for a length of time how will you keep the battery charged?
      Jim McNeely
      New Hope a 2004 Bayliner 305 Sunbridge Express Cruiser
      Twin 5.7s with Bravo2 drives
      Brighton, Michigan USA
      MMSI # 367393410

      Comment


        #4
        Before you get a new pump I'd recommend a visit to this web page:

        http://www.yachtsurvey.com/bilge_pumps.htm

        Its written by a yacht surveyor with some very strong opinions about bilge pumps, how to size them and where to fit them. I have replaced the original 500gph unit with two automatic units (a Rule 2000gph and a Johnson 900gph with an external float switch) based on reading the above web page and that's in a small 175

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          #5
          Ditto Jim on all points, and rc42a re; the external float switch.

          Also...... just as with illegal drugs, say NO to these, or I'll send Capt'n Harv after you! :arr

          (shame on Rule and any company who makes and sells a switch like this! rod )

          Attached files [img]/media/kunena/attachments/vb/671217=26076-Manual OFF Auto bilge pump switch.jpg[/img]
          Rick E. Gresham, Oregon
          2850 Bounty Sedan Flybridge model
          Twin 280 HP 5.7's w/ Closed Cooling
          Volvo Penta DuoProp Drives
          Kohler 4 CZ Gen Set

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            #6
            Thanks for the replies. I think I will add a second pump that is automatic and is hard wired to the battery. Another question, can the two pumps share the same drain line? I would like to avoid drilling another hole in the boat.

            Will battery charge be an issue? I plan on using the boat almost every weekend.

            The only reason for the second pump will be for rain water that might get through the cover during the week.

            Thanks

            Comment


              #7
              I wrote this a while back. Should answer your questions

              http://www.baylinerownersclub.org/fo...ad.php?t=35339
              Captharv 2001 2452
              "When the draft of your boat exceeds the depth of water, you are aground"

              Comment


                #8
                if you wire the pump dorrectly to the battery take time to fuse it so if it shorts out it wont harm anything

                also piping then into the same tube isnt a good isea did that and found the one pump would just back feed the other when is didnt run because it was a little higher

                run two drain hoses

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                  #9
                  When you run bilge pump hose bring it up past the outlet and then loop back down to the outlet.

                  It will form a P. This reduces the likely hood of water being able to come back in the thru hull into the boat.

                  I also recommend a second drain outlet. Keep the systems as independant as possible.

                  Jim McNeely
                  New Hope a 2004 Bayliner 305 Sunbridge Express Cruiser
                  Twin 5.7s with Bravo2 drives
                  Brighton, Michigan USA
                  MMSI # 367393410

                  Comment

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