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2003 2455 5.7 bravo-3 Ciera Tach and temp question-gctid366647

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  • 2003 2455 5.7 bravo-3 Ciera Tach and temp question-gctid366647

    Hello, My wife just aquired her 3rd new (used) boat last weekend, a 2003 Ciera 2455 w/5.7 carb and Bravo-III dual prop. It's quite a step up from her previous 1998 2052 Capri Cuddy 4.3L Alpha drive.

    Now being the "chief" mechanic, I'm a bit overwhelmed with all the water pumps/water heaters, buty doing may best to catch on fast....but looking for much needed tips/quirks on these models/drives.

    This weekend we took it out for the maiden voyage in Lake Washington, (yes the weather was crummy! +46F) first thing I noticed, no tach reading? could have/would have sworn I had a signal when they fired up the boat in the shop in Portland? not sure where to begin the trouble shooting? what's the best way to get to the back of the gauges on these models? pull th epannel from cockpit side or can I get to the tacj from the access panel in the head?

    Second question is the water temp? our 5.7 is closed system, seems to have a small heat exchanger transverse mounted front of engine, bigger hoses, radiator size?then there are two smaller diameter hoses, (heater hose size) that run over to the hot water heater box. Our first run, idling from the launch, the temp pased 175 (on the dash guage) I was turning around and heading for the dock when it settled down and hovered smidge over 175, but not quite the next tick mark (Fiara guages) assuming thats 200 as there is one more tick then 250max.

    Since the temp seamed stable, we continuded on, did a couple of WOT runs, backed off, repeat... idled down, putted, tried out the trim w/trim tabs...(again new to us) noticed if I pushed it... the temp would climb to 200'ish...if I idled down it dropped to 175+,

    The temp seems high to me? would the impellar fluctuate the temp on a closed loop system? does it sound like a sticky thermostat?

    I don't have a maintence history, so best bet is change them both? could I be missing some other factor?

    Looking forward to the insights,



  • #2
    For the tach , just pull the dash panel and check for loose connections as a starting point.

    For the temperature I would start with the impeller since it is definately a wear item. The thermostat would be next and then an inspection of the heat exchanger as they do clog.

    Also the heat exchanger has an anode that must be replaced as routine (yearly) maintenance.
    Jim McNeely
    New Hope a 2004 Bayliner 305 Sunbridge Express Cruiser
    Twin 5.7s with Bravo2 drives
    Brighton, Michigan USA
    MMSI # 367393410


    • #3
      I always start at the water pickup. Yours is on the drive make sure they are not clogged. Tach could be a connection under the dash.

      Look closely on the back of the tach see a switch..... cycle it back and forth a few times and set it for the amount of cylinders you have.
      Be good, be happy, for tomorrow is promised to no man !

      1994 2452, 5.0l, Alpha gen. 2 drive. Sold ! Sold ! Sold !

      '86 / 19' Citation cuddy, Merc. 3.0L / 140 hp 86' , stringer drive. Sold ! Sold ! Sold !

      Manalapan N.J


      • #4

        pulled the dash and the aux pannel and circuit breaker panel... chasing hot wire for aux A rocker to power depth meter, the good news! Fiara dash depth meter works, bad news the tach still doesn't .... guess pull dash again and check tach connections with anolog shop tach?? chase wire loom again like I did for depth guage? I looked at coil, but didn't see extra gray wire on negative side like our 1998 2052.

        cleaned out Pito hole in Brovo3 lower unit, by hand with drill ... full of stuff, still no function??? looking for the disconect joint?? to blow out Pito? or with dash off again... pull speedo hose and blow out tube, mount or air compressor?

        changed thermostat, 160deg, still running +175 with "san juan Enginnering" fresh water system? going to try pulling/prying the ends off the heat exchanger? as out second run in the lake, the idle was +175, cruise was +175 but coming up slow onto plane spiked the temp... backed off cooled down, planed up quicker OK? is this a for shure sign of bad impellor?

        changed serpantine belt (napa's half price of west marine) saw raw water pump, I assume since I'm on my head looking at it, that the 2 nuts on the pump bracket and one more on support bracket drops pump and bracket free, then disconnect hoses ??? am I missing a step?

        lots of comments about checking manifolds, but mine seem to be the newer style dry joint with (2) risers then elbo's.